Fixing Juwel Light Bar.

And yes that is the unit

Hello,
 
Ahhh... I see what you mean... It could be just something as simple as the previous owner removing a failed tube...
 
You could just try replacing the missing tube and see what happens...
 
It is possible that the existing ballast has "problems", but I don't think the wiring will be cut.
 
Has the unit been opened??
 
Until you've sorted this out, I'd consider the hood potentially dangerous. I don't mean to scare you, but the exposed tube connections in the open sockets may have several hundred volts on them when powered.
 
For now, seal off the exposed sockets with a couple of elastic bands and a plastic bag. Water and electricity don't mix!
 
If you could post a couple of pictures then these will help in deciding how to proceed..
 
Don't worry.. we **WILL** sort this out!
 
Bodge99

So this ballast would be suitable ? http/pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321211567446

Would I then connect the correct wires to each socket, how would the waterproof clips be connect ?

Ive figured what he has done, the previous owner has cut all the wires even the wire which the plug is attached and he has used a separate light starter unit and just tied the waterproof light ends the the original unit. See the pictures attached. Any help is much appreciated

Hello,
 
Yes, this one is correctly rated for your tubes... (2x35W HE T5)
 
One possible "gotcha" is how the hood is wired...
 
There are two types of electronic ballasts that are used in fish tanks. Cold cathode types. These use 2 wires per tube (1 per tube end). The other type is a hot cathode type (2 wires per tube end). The Osram ballast you have linked to is a hot cathode type.
 
Now to use this ballast, your tube sockets must have two wires each. I'm assuming here that the existing tube sockets are either missing or have been removed??
 
It is sometimes possible to open existing tube sockets (if they are the 1 wire type) and convert them to 2 wires.
 
If you could clarify exactly what's what then I'll tell you exactly what you need to do.
 
Don't forget to check that the new ballast will actually fit inside the hood... The only way to be certain is to look and see.
 
Bodge99

Hello,
 
Sorry, no pictures with your post...
 
Bodge99

i was downloading the pics off my phone, all the wires have been cut so no live wires are exposed

Hello,
 
Thanks for the pictures.. this really does help! I've actually seen "solutions" worse than this... ho hum!
 
O.K. You'll have to open the top up to see exactly what is inside. How you actually do this depends on how your specific top was assembled. Some have to be cut open (see some of the earlier posts and other lighting threads for pictures). You may be able to remove one of the end plates (it might be glued/plastic welded). This depends on the build vintage for this specific design.
 
Once you have the top open (this is the hardest part of the whole job!) you will probably find the remains of the original socket wiring, the old mains wiring and the original ballast.
 
It's probably safe to assume that the old one is kaput.. So you'll need a new ballast, 4 clip in sockets (if you choose to use these), new mains flex and possibly new tube wiring.
You may be lucky and find that the existing tube wiring is of sufficient length to reuse. If it exists, remove it, clean it off and examine it closely for signs of any insulation damage. If in any doubt, change it for new.
 
The tube wiring is solid core, normally 0.8mm diameter. I have used the cores from 1mm diameter lighting cable (used in house wiring, strip off the outer cable sheathing and used the individual insulated wires... not the earth wire!).
 
If you could post here with your findings then I can advise you further...
 
Have fun!
 
Bodge99

All the wiring has been cut, I can see through the holes where the caps are supposed to be he has snipped the wires to the nub, so I will have to cut just buy everything new.
Could you possibly link me all the things I need on ebay?
Thanks all your help is appreciated.

Hello,
 
T5 clip in waterproof sockets:
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T5-end-caps-tube-holders-waterproof-holders-1-pair-/151133095779?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item23303c0763
 
Juwel T5 sockets:
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JUWEL-End-Cap-Waterproof-T5-Fluorescent-Lamps-Holder-marine-fishtank-aquarium-/261298518545?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item3cd69afa11
 
You can get mains flex and lighting cable from your local DIY shop (by the metre). Get the same(conductor)  diameter as the existing old flex. It might be an idea to cut a bit off and take it with you so you can match up the size.
The lighting cable is this:
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10m-x-1mm-3-CORE-6243Y-TWIN-AND-EARTH-2-WAY-LIGHTING-CABLE-OLD-COLOURS-RYB-/300969147069?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item461328babd
 
This one is 3 core and earth... The number of cores and colours is not important... just the conductor diameter. Just get what ever is the best value for money... If you happen to know a sparky... ask them... as the misses says "shy bairns get nowt".
 
I'll give info on connecting everything when you wish... just ask!
 
Good luck!
 
Bodge99

Perfect did it today works great saved about 100 euros

Hello,
 
Glad to hear that you have had success!!
 
Well done!
 
My your light be forever flicker free!!
 
Bodge99

[SIZE=10.5pt]I have a Trigon 350 and the ballasts in both lighting units had failed (I made sure I checked all the bulbs and fuses etc first before reaching that conclusion).  I was quoted £230 for replacement units from a Juwel stockist![/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]I'm so glad I found this thread. I completed the fix at the weekend and the lights worked perfectly, first flick of the switch![/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]I got 2 ballasts of ebay for a total of £17.  I had to go from 8 connections to 7 with one ballast and from 8 to 6 with the other but in both cases, it was fairly simple to follow the wiring diagram on the ballast and work out which wires needed joining.  I used screw connector blocks rather than soldering for these connections and also for a couple of wires that I needed to lengthen.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Most folk here seem to have cut out from the bottom of the unit.  I felt more comfortable making the cut from the top - I didn't want any possibility of the joint failing and wires dropping into the tank to fry the fish!  The down-side to cutting from the top of course is that the repair strips are visible but to be honest, they didn't turn out too bad and wouldn't be immediately obvious to anyone who wasn't looking for them.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]I didn't have any plastic strips of a suitable size for the repair but I did have some fairly dense black EVA foam about 3mm thick in the garage, so I cut this to size and glued the strips to the top of the units with contact adhesive, followed by a bead of silicone round the perimeter.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Total cost for everything was less than £25, so I've saved over £200.  Thanks to doresy, bodge99 and everyone else on this thread for giving me the confidence to attempt this repair [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Cheers,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Billy[/SIZE]

Hello,
 
Very well done indeed!
 
Thanks for the feedback.
 
I like saving money... and helping others to save money as well...
 
My your lights be ever bright...
 
Bodge99

HI guys new to the site, im half way through the replacement of my 240 t5 ballast.
first interestingly it says t8 on the old ballast, yet the lights are T5. 
anyway..... i have purchased a new ballast that fits the tube wattage and is HO for t5's
can someone assist with the wiring configuration please?
Thanks in advance
old ballast

new ballast

Hello,
 
I've seen your PM.
 
It's quite common to see incorrect ballasts fitted.. either "in good faith" as a repair, or a **** up in manufacturing..
Unless the ballast is designed to support both tube sizes, problems will occur in the future.
 
Anyway
 
OLD    NEW
1           15 (15,16 either way round)
2           16
3           11 (11,12 either way round)
4           12
5           13
6           14
 
See some of the other posts for some tips on testing...
 
Good luck!
 
Bodge99
 
There is also another wire linking one tube pin to a pin on the other tube. Leave this one as it is.