Zebra Danio - Unusual Blister On Mouth
- Thread starter RagNep
- Start date
Quite common in danio's who zip around the tank quickly and bump into things (glass sides etc) its just scar tissue which should go away after a while.
Just keep their water nice a clean
Just keep their water nice a clean
If the fish has been in your tank for a while, then it's most likely just a fat lip from the fish swimming into something.
If the fish is new, then it could be a fat lip or the start of columnaris.
You need to post pictures of your fish and tell us how long you have had the fish for, and how long the fish has had the bump for.
If the fish is new, then it could be a fat lip or the start of columnaris.
You need to post pictures of your fish and tell us how long you have had the fish for, and how long the fish has had the bump for.
Danios were added 2 months ago.. Except for one blister doing good. I have 250 litre tank (66 US gallon I think), 3 swordtails, 3 angelfish (juveniles), 1 honey gourami (super chilled), 3 small yoyo loaches, 1 garra and 7 danios.
0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 20 nitrate (if I don't add fertiliser, drops a lot). Photo of danio. She is pretty active (unless when resting from time to time like all my danios do) and eats like a shark.
She has had this for 15 days now and appeared all of a sudden and no other fish has anything white on them other than their natural colour. I have given her salt bath twice and that's it.
0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 20 nitrate (if I don't add fertiliser, drops a lot). Photo of danio. She is pretty active (unless when resting from time to time like all my danios do) and eats like a shark.
She has had this for 15 days now and appeared all of a sudden and no other fish has anything white on them other than their natural colour. I have given her salt bath twice and that's it.
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If the fish has had the white bump for a couple of weeks, it is not Columnaris (mouth fungus) because that spreads across the face and head and kills them within a few days.
I reckon it's a fat lip from swimming into something. They normally go down after a few weeks but can take a month to go.
The fish appears to have a couple of light grey/ cream patches on its back between the head and dorsal fin. That could be excess mucous caused by an external protozoan infection like Costia, Chilodonella or Trichodina. A couple of weeks of salt should fix it.
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Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Add some salt, (see directions below).
--------------------
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
I reckon it's a fat lip from swimming into something. They normally go down after a few weeks but can take a month to go.
The fish appears to have a couple of light grey/ cream patches on its back between the head and dorsal fin. That could be excess mucous caused by an external protozoan infection like Costia, Chilodonella or Trichodina. A couple of weeks of salt should fix it.
--------------------
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Add some salt, (see directions below).
--------------------
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
Thank you Colin. Good to know it is not mouth fungus. The thing is it hasn't become better in the last 2 weeks. Looks pretty much the same. I did take all the danios out in a separate tank for a week and put them in salt. They are back in the main tank now.
The scars on the back I see on 3 of my danios; I heard that is normal for Danios; don't see anything on any other fishes. However, I have aquarium salt and can do the dosage for 2 weeks.
I do 50% water change every week and wipe the glass down at the same time. I haven't opened by Fluval 307 for 4 to 5 weeks now. Since pre-filter gets soggy most of the time, I squeeze pre-filter out when doing water changes.
I will clean the filters in tank water when I do water change next.
The scars on the back I see on 3 of my danios; I heard that is normal for Danios; don't see anything on any other fishes. However, I have aquarium salt and can do the dosage for 2 weeks.
I do 50% water change every week and wipe the glass down at the same time. I haven't opened by Fluval 307 for 4 to 5 weeks now. Since pre-filter gets soggy most of the time, I squeeze pre-filter out when doing water changes.
I will clean the filters in tank water when I do water change next.
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