Will Water Changes Help My Low Ph Problem?

[talla2xlc]

I learned we have very soft tap water, which also has chloromine and ammonia in it. It is 7.6 for pH. The problem is my tank will not cycle and I didn't know why but I learned that because the pH dropped so low to 6.0 that nitrites just wouldn't thrive. I'd like my pH around 6.8 and I've been told do not mess with buffering, don't do drops because they are just a temporary solution and bi-carb will harm my fish. But when I do a 20% water change the pH rises to 6.4 so I'm thinking what if I just figure out how to keep the pH at about 6.8 with multiple water changes during the week? My cycle will no longer be hindered. Is this a good thing to try? Thanks!

20 gallon
temp: 78
2 comets
2 paradise fish
ammonia: 2.0
nitrites/nitrates: 0
7 weeks into fish in cycling

 

[waterdrop]

Yes, large and frequent water changes will help your fish-in cycle and what's more they are urgently needed if your ammonia test is anywhere near accurate (liquid-reagent tests I hope) at ammonia=2.

Large H2O changes that refresh the pH back closer to 7.6 will do a world of good because the bacteria grow fastest at a pH of 8.0 to 8.4.. that range. You don't want your fish to be exposed to more than 0.25ppm ammonia or nitrite, otherwise they are suffering permanent damage to gills and nerves and may not make it through the fish-in cycle. Don't worry about your post-cycle pH, that is a different issue to be figured out later. A fish-in cycling tank is a different animal from a cycled and running tank.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[talla2xlc]

Yes, large and frequent water changes will help your fish-in cycle and what's more they are urgently needed if your ammonia test is anywhere near accurate (liquid-reagent tests I hope) at ammonia=2.

Large H2O changes that refresh the pH back closer to 7.6 will do a world of good because the bacteria grow fastest at a pH of 8.0 to 8.4.. that range. You don't want your fish to be exposed to more than 0.25ppm ammonia or nitrite, otherwise they are suffering permanent damage to gills and nerves and may not make it through the fish-in cycle. Don't worry about your post-cycle pH, that is a different issue to be figured out later. A fish-in cycling tank is a different animal from a cycled and running tank.

~~waterdrop~~

Thank you for your response. I will get right on it with the water changes. I've read that a pH below 7.0 automatically converts ammonia into less/non toxic ammonium and I think that's why my fish are doing ok in 2.0ppm ammonia levels in my tank. As for doing water changes to get rid of the ammonia... well we have 1.0 ppm ammonia present in our tap water I was considering getting a lot of plants but the probelm is I have 2 comet goldfish in there and they love eating plants!

 

[waterdrop]

One ppm of ammonia in the tap water changes the picture. With tap water poisons you need to try to up the frequency and lower the percentage(size) of your water changes. In your case this could actually make the job a little easier on you even if it means the environment is not as nice for the fish. It means your goal area (while cycling is still happening, which may be hard to define with messy fish like goldfish in there) is -between- the 1ppm of the starting water and the 2ppm you are showing (again, showing via liquid testing or paper strips?) You want to work on getting the 2ppm down closer to or at the 1ppm and of course hope that eventually your biofilter can quickly take the 1ppm of incoming water and reduce that tank water to zero ppm.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[talla2xlc]

One ppm of ammonia in the tap water changes the picture. With tap water poisons you need to try to up the frequency and lower the percentage(size) of your water changes. In your case this could actually make the job a little easier on you even if it means the environment is not as nice for the fish. It means your goal area (while cycling is still happening, which may be hard to define with messy fish like goldfish in there) is -between- the 1ppm of the starting water and the 2ppm you are showing (again, showing via liquid testing or paper strips?) You want to work on getting the 2ppm down closer to or at the 1ppm and of course hope that eventually your biofilter can quickly take the 1ppm of incoming water and reduce that tank water to zero ppm.

~~waterdrop~~

Thank you, I will do that. Yes, it will definitely be easier doing smaller water changes. Thanks again.

 

[Gvilleguy]

I was in your position for my fishless cycle: my 7.x pH tap water would settle down to 6.0 after being in the tank a day or two. I had to use baking soda to artificially keep the pH up during the cycle. Once I had fish in the tank, I then decided to go with crushed coral in a mesh bag that hangs in the outflow of the filter. This crushed coral slowly dissolves in the acidic water and naturally buffers the pH. Now my pH stays around 7.0 - 7.4 and I can keep a wider range of fish types than I could with the low 6.0. It has worked well for me for months so far.

Good article on this here:

My pH keeps dropping...

 

[OldMan47]

The only problem using the article on low pH and using bicarb is that with fish in the tank the effects are not good for the fish. I would stick to water changes to right things.

 

[Gvilleguy]

I was only mentioning the bicarb for fishless cycling. I was saying that longer term they could consider crushed coral to buffer the pH column.

 

[talla2xlc]

Thank you all for your help! Much appreciated

 

[puffcandy]

Sorry. Could someone please explain why using Bicarb with fish is not recommended. I live in Scotland and therefor have "soft" tap water.

 

[OldMan47]

The only problem that I have using bicarb with fish in the tank is that it causes the pH to respond over a period of just a few minutes. With fish in a tank, I always favor methods that act more gradually.

 

[puffcandy]

The only problem that I have using bicarb with fish in the tank is that it causes the pH to respond over a period of just a few minutes. With fish in a tank, I always favor methods that act more gradually.

Thanks for the response Oldman. So I should use crushed coral or something similar then. How do I know how much to use? or is it trial and error?

Cheers.

 

[StandbySetting]

Place some crushed coral or Calcium Carbonate chips in a small tight in the filter.