Why Do My Plants Die?

AdAndrews

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I HAVE A REKORD 60, 54 LITRES AND HAVE SOME LIVE PLANTS, KEEP THE LIGHT ON FOR 8-10 HOURS A DAY BUT DONT FEED THE PLANTS, ITS ALWAYS THE SAME STORY, BUY , WATCH THEM GROW A BIT FOR 2-4 WEEKS AND THEN THEY START DYING OR GET EATEN!

DO I NEED TO FEED MY PLANTS, I HAVE JUST A ROUNDED MIDDLE SIZED BLACK GRAVEL,( IF THIS HELPS)

OR SHALL I JUST BUY SOME MORE ROCKS AND FAKE PLANTS?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
 
get some tropica plant nutrition or some root tabs. what plants have you got? get a pic if you can as they may be non aquatic. wht fish have you got?
 
get some tropica plant nutrition or some root tabs. what plants have you got? get a pic if you can as they may be non aquatic. wht fish have you got?


OK, I HAVE 4 WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN MINNOWS AND 6 HARLEQUINS- ILL GO TAKE A PIC

DONT KNOW THE NAME OF THE PLANTS, BUT I AM PRETTY SURE THEY ARE AQUATIC
 
co2 injection is the way to go . i have the same tank look at it in the members tank area its at the top. it says my rekord 60. i used to have plants and they would fail i added co2 and they are thriving. also how old is your tube i change mine every 3 months cuz there the crappy t8s
 
co2 injection is the way to go . i have the same tank look at it in the members tank area its at the top. it says my rekord 60. i used to have plants and they would fail i added co2 and they are thriving. also how old is your tube i change mine every 3 months cuz there the crappy t8s


THE TANK IS 4 WEEKS OLD S IT ENT THE LIGHT, THANKS TRUCK
 
get some tropica plant nutrition or some root tabs. what plants have you got? get a pic if you can as they may be non aquatic. wht fish have you got?


OK, I HAVE 4 WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN MINNOWS AND 6 HARLEQUINS- ILL GO TAKE A PIC

DONT KNOW THE NAME OF THE PLANTS, BUT I AM PRETTY SURE THEY ARE AQUATIC
get a t6 instead of t8. also adandrews go for diy co2! i have 2 bottles running my 120l
 
get some tropica plant nutrition or some root tabs. what plants have you got? get a pic if you can as they may be non aquatic. wht fish have you got?


OK, I HAVE 4 WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN MINNOWS AND 6 HARLEQUINS- ILL GO TAKE A PIC

DONT KNOW THE NAME OF THE PLANTS, BUT I AM PRETTY SURE THEY ARE AQUATIC
get a t6 instead of t8. also adandrews go for diy co2! i have 2 bottles running my 120l


http://s411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/AdAndrews/

how do i add pics??
 
i recomend 1, 2 litre bottle of diy co2 for every 60 or so litres.

get a used 2 litre pop bottle

fill it to the first ridge with sugar then add 2 parts water. so the ratio of sugar to water is 1:2

then ad 1 teaspoon of yeast .

but you need to drill a 6mm hole in the bottle cap push some airline in and seal it with silicone.

then add a check valve and more airline and a difffuser.
 
upload image and then save name and title etc, then copy the direct link from the i bit (after the http//) then click one of the icons and abouve6666 and it will say add link, paste it in there and bingo
 
upload image and then save name and title etc, then copy the direct link from the i bit (after the http//) then click one of the icons and abouve6666 and it will say add link, paste it in there and bingo


thanks for your help but i have no clue how to upload ics why doesnt this stupid site just let you upload them strait from the computer??
 
it does. click add reply and on the right hand side there is an image uploader. click browse access your computer from there click the picture you want to upload and then click upload and on right of browse. then on the left side of the page there is a box that says manage attachments and click that and click the icon with a + on it
 
There is a button on the reply panel that sort of looks like a picture. When you hold your mouse over it the message Insert Image appears. If you click on it the question will come up to ask where your image is stored. Mine are on photobucket so I open another window to photobucket whilwI am editting. That way I can copy the photobucket link to the little window they give me. For example I know that I have a picture of a harbor seal in my photobucket account so I open it while I am in this message and paste http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll251/O...rborSeal800.jpg into the message window that wanted to know where to find the picture. It puts the proper [ img ] and [ /img ] symbols around the command line to turn a simple address into a picture.
HarborSeal800.jpg
 
the light in the rekord is adequate for plants you dont need to fiddle with it
i would feed the plants though tetra plantamin is a good food that wont damage any fish either as it's even safe for shrimp
I feed that to my plants in my juwel rekord and they were doing fine with the standard light i now have a nutrafin CO2 thingy which is so easy to set up if you dont want to go down the DIY route and is on speacial £9.99 at maidenhead aquatics - lots of branches over the UK

Your plants could be dying if your tank is still cycling - have you done a test to check your readings ammonia , nitrite , nitrate levels as the tank is only 4 weeks old its still pretty new so definately feed the plants

Cheeers Sarah xxx

my juwel Rekord 60tank - sorry not clear pic

5050.jpg
 
Hi, AdAndrews,
speaking as one who knows nothing, up until relatively recently, I've never used a nutrient substrate or ferts to keep plants going, merely inert gravel, but have always had live (and sometimes dead/dying) plants.
And I've never used co2 - and in previous decades, neither did cumulative millions of others.
It depends on what type of plants/tank you want to keep.

But, apart from those already mentioned by others, there are a number of issues potentially involved in the problems you've been having, including the fact that comercially grown plants may have been grown emergent so that leaves and stems developed in the air will initially die off under water (and hopefully regrow) and that crypts, for example, tend to melt when moved, and may or may not make an eventual recovery.

One thing I was wondering was, do you have very coarse gravel?
I have fair-sized polished quartz in one tank, and the only plants that really do well in there are crawler-types that aren't so much dependent on roots.
And it can take some time for these to really kick in and start doing well, unless ferts are used.
That tank's been running for a year, (possibly 2, get mixed, have 10 tanks and a bad memory) is established, and must have mulm underneath; I did put root tabs in, way back when, but they'll be long gone.
I've put in several plants which are potted (in soil under gravel) to compensate.
I ran out of Flourish, was told it wasn't available thoughout Western Canada for a while - plants started dying back, and even dying period, in several (non Walstad) tanks.
It makes a difference...

It's not unusual for critters to travel in on plants, some of them plant eaters which may attack (specifically or generally) roots/leaves/stems.
Many people use a dip and others also q-tank plants as well as fish for similar lengths of time, to catch any hatch-outs prior to their infecting the whole tank.
Some of these literal little blighters can destroy a whole tank of healthy plants (sniff) in a very short period indeed, once brought in, especially if several types are introduced..

As recommended by others above, especially in a new tank where mulm has not yet built up, ferts are a good idea, even if only used over the first months as a boost.

But if co2 is to be used, the increased rate of growth will, as you probably know, require a regular fert schedule.

Since your lighting system has been declared to be good enough, there may be multiple other factors at play, many dependent on circumstances having little or nothing to do with your tank environment.

A good dosing regime and co2 injection will undoubtedly overcome many of these, if only by the faster growth of surviving plants.

But if a high tech/high maintenance situation does not happen to be your preferred method, there may be other ways to achieve reasonable plant growth.

The 2-4 week period mentioned prior to plant death makes me wonder about the softness of your water.
In this case, it sounds most like a mineral deficiency - and (speaking as One Who Knows Nothing and has no money to spend on high-tech I know nothing of anyway) I'd try root tabs and a bit of Flourish (or whatever's similar in your area) for a water column fert - maybe a bit of calcium/potassium (edit - oops, missed magnesium somehow) deficiency?
Because deficiencies also can put holes in leaves, making a plant appear to be 'eaten' when it's really just falling apart from lack of nourishment.

In any event, best of luck.
Being the opposite of expert, I can only say what's worked for me, or what I've read that makes sense to me, in case anyone else might benefit.
I can sympathize because I've had problems with dying plants on a number of occasions, which is why I'm aware of the potential problems listed above.
And it sucks!



pippoodle - tank pics = WOW, how'd you get Amano to do your tank!!!
And what's the blue tornado-shaped thing on the far left?
His trademark?
 
Hi, AdAndrews,
speaking as one who knows nothing, up until relatively recently, I've never used a nutrient substrate or ferts to keep plants going, merely inert gravel, but have always had live (and sometimes dead/dying) plants.
And I've never used co2 - and in previous decades, neither did cumulative millions of others.
It depends on what type of plants/tank you want to keep.

But, apart from those already mentioned by others, there are a number of issues potentially involved in the problems you've been having, including the fact that comercially grown plants may have been grown emergent so that leaves and stems developed in the air will initially die off under water (and hopefully regrow) and that crypts, for example, tend to melt when moved, and may or may not make an eventual recovery.

One thing I was wondering was, do you have very coarse gravel?
I have fair-sized polished quartz in one tank, and the only plants that really do well in there are crawler-types that aren't so much dependent on roots.
And it can take some time for these to really kick in and start doing well, unless ferts are used.
That tank's been running for a year, (possibly 2, get mixed, have 10 tanks and a bad memory) is established, and must have mulm underneath; I did put root tabs in, way back when, but they'll be long gone.
I've put in several plants which are potted (in soil under gravel) to compensate.
I ran out of Flourish, was told it wasn't available thoughout Western Canada for a while - plants started dying back, and even dying period, in several (non Walstad) tanks.
It makes a difference...

It's not unusual for critters to travel in on plants, some of them plant eaters which may attack (specifically or generally) roots/leaves/stems.
Many people use a dip and others also q-tank plants as well as fish for similar lengths of time, to catch any hatch-outs prior to their infecting the whole tank.
Some of these literal little blighters can destroy a whole tank of healthy plants (sniff) in a very short period indeed, once brought in, especially if several types are introduced..

As recommended by others above, especially in a new tank where mulm has not yet built up, ferts are a good idea, even if only used over the first months as a boost.

But if co2 is to be used, the increased rate of growth will, as you probably know, require a regular fert schedule.

Since your lighting system has been declared to be good enough, there may be multiple other factors at play, many dependent on circumstances having little or nothing to do with your tank environment.

A good dosing regime and co2 injection will undoubtedly overcome many of these, if only by the faster growth of surviving plants.

But if a high tech/high maintenance situation does not happen to be your preferred method, there may be other ways to achieve reasonable plant growth.

The 2-4 week period mentioned prior to plant death makes me wonder about the softness of your water.
In this case, it sounds most like a mineral deficiency - and (speaking as One Who Knows Nothing and has no money to spend on high-tech I know nothing of anyway) I'd try root tabs and a bit of Flourish (or whatever's similar in your area) for a water column fert - maybe a bit of calcium/potassium (edit - oops, missed magnesium somehow) deficiency?
Because deficiencies also can put holes in leaves, making a plant appear to be 'eaten' when it's really just falling apart from lack of nourishment.

In any event, best of luck.
Being the opposite of expert, I can only say what's worked for me, or what I've read that makes sense to me, in case anyone else might benefit.
I can sympathize because I've had problems with dying plants on a number of occasions, which is why I'm aware of the potential problems listed above.
And it sucks!



pippoodle - tank pics = WOW, how'd you get Amano to do your tank!!!
And what's the blue tornado-shaped thing on the far left?
His trademark?





your plants could also be dying maybe because the water is to acidic.
maybe frequent water changes should help and maybe real sunlight.
 

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