Why Are They Dieing?

you are missing my point.

ITS A GREAT WATER CONDITIONER IE REMOVING CHLORINE. When used at recommended dose, it does last way longer than other water conditioners. Its highly concentrated. Focusing on that alone (water conditioning) is what makes Prime so highly praised and used by many.

Your point that all that powder and 500ml didnt last ur 2 month cycle is a moot point since u didnt use the recommended dose, that would be like me spilling half my bottle and then saying Hey! it ran out super fast. that was your doing, nothing to do with the product.
 
you are missing my point.

ITS A GREAT WATER CONDITIONER IE REMOVING CHLORINE. When used at recommended dose, it does last way longer than other water conditioners. Its highly concentrated. Focusing on that alone (water conditioning) is what makes Prime so highly praised and used by many.

Your point that all that powder and 500ml didnt last ur 2 month cycle is a moot point since u didnt use the recommended dose, that would be like me spilling half my bottle and then saying Hey! it ran out super fast. that was your doing, nothing to do with the product.

you are missing my point also.

seachem says prime is much more than a water conditioner. i would not have gone from stress coat to prime in the first place, except for their claims. i already had a water conditioner. And as just a water conditioner it's way overprice compared to other just water conditioners. In my conversation with seachem, they quote "....its more than a conditioner".

i did use their recommended dose. also using x5 is also their recommended maximum dose. And if you read the x5 doseage was not applied, til their normal dose does not work.

i'm talking about neutralising the ammonia/nitrite, and ure talking about conditioner, i don't need it as a conditioner. You're not advocating it's good at neutralising ammonia/nitrite, so agree on that, but for those who want it as a neutralizer it doesn't.

Now that i'm no longer fish-in cycling, and don't need an ammonia/nitrite neutralizer, i definately don't need prime,its the only reason i went to prime.
 
found out what was wrong... pH 5.0!!!! AHHH.

water is testing 0 for nitrite and nitrate, and 0 now for ammonia... after a 80% water change. not sure if i am getting false negatives... im not using anything special to skew results...

Getting back to the op. You need to figure out why the PH was so low. This was even after the big water changes?
 
found out what was wrong... pH 5.0!!!! AHHH.

water is testing 0 for nitrite and nitrate, and 0 now for ammonia... after a 80% water change. not sure if i am getting false negatives... im not using anything special to skew results...

Getting back to the op. You need to figure out why the PH was so low. This was even after the big water changes?
What are your nitrates at? High Nitrates will crash pH. Some ways to level out the pH are a little nylon sock with crushed coral. Better alternative to chemicals.
 
i borrowed my brothers API test kit... got WAYYY different results than my nutrafin one.

I thought i was part way into cycling... looks like i still have ammonia with no nitrites and nitrates... which is weird because a couple days ago i did...
 
I am so confused right now...my tank is cycled, but I've been using Prime and the API master kit. Can anyone else verify for sure if these two products are not compatible? I'm not doubting your orandas, this is just the first time I've ever heard this. I still test my tank every other day, and I'd hate to miss something because I'm using the wrong products. I do have ammonia present in my tap water, which is why I prefer Prime just for safety's sake.
 
Sodium thiosulfate is great, if you have only chlorine in your tap water. If you have chloramine in your tap water & plan on doing larger water changes using only that you'll be back to having ammonia issues, until your bio filtration processes the ammonia. If your tap water is treated with chlorine only it is the absolute cheapest way to treat water.

I believe Seachem states that Prime can be used in an emergency to detoxify ammonia, but much as a can of Fix-A-Flat can be used to fix a flat tire in an emergency neither is a proper or long term solution.
 
I am so confused right now...my tank is cycled, but I've been using Prime and the API master kit. Can anyone else verify for sure if these two products are not compatible? I'm not doubting your orandas, this is just the first time I've ever heard this. I still test my tank every other day, and I'd hate to miss something because I'm using the wrong products. I do have ammonia present in my tap water, which is why I prefer Prime just for safety's sake.
You are fine. I have used prime and api test kit in conjunction and i get acurate results.
 
i borrowed my brothers API test kit... got WAYYY different results than my nutrafin one.

I thought i was part way into cycling... looks like i still have ammonia with no nitrites and nitrates... which is weird because a couple days ago i did...

yikes .......fish-in cycle..... large daily water changes
 
I am so confused right now...my tank is cycled, but I've been using Prime and the API master kit. Can anyone else verify for sure if these two products are not compatible? I'm not doubting your orandas, this is just the first time I've ever heard this. I still test my tank every other day, and I'd hate to miss something because I'm using the wrong products. I do have ammonia present in my tap water, which is why I prefer Prime just for safety's sake.

Please i'm not offended at all :) I've already gone thru this, doubting, verifying, checking etc......thats why i don't want anyone 'convincing' me, thats all.

If you go to seachem's website(prime's manufacturer), they will verify it - they distinguish between tests based on salactyte(?can't spell it) and reagent agents base.

Another product simliar to prime is kordon's amquel,it's suppose to detoxify ammonia/nitrite and which will test accurately with api test kit.I only tried abit of the bottle, cos by then,my forced fish-in cycle had completed, and i went back to stress coat - cheaper & familiarity.
 
Sodium thiosulfate is great, if you have only chlorine in your tap water. If you have chloramine in your tap water & plan on doing larger water changes using only that you'll be back to having ammonia issues, until your bio filtration processes the ammonia. If your tap water is treated with chlorine only it is the absolute cheapest way to treat water.

I believe Seachem states that Prime can be used in an emergency to detoxify ammonia, but much as a can of Fix-A-Flat can be used to fix a flat tire in an emergency neither is a proper or long term solution.

I totally agree. I have a copy of our water report. And have an email from the water company, that they don't use chloramine in our waters....yeah. Our water report says that maxiumum mean valve is 0.03mg/l of chlorine, and when i tested the tap water with sera chlorine tube test (whose lowest reading is 0.3mg/l) it came back at 0! so its likely between 0- 0.3mg/l.....yeah

Sodium thiosulfate........wow i only need so little of this stuff and its so much cheaper, for my 6ft tank.......whooopppeeee

I only need a little bit, to make a stock solution, and then take only a little bit of the stock solution per water change......happy days

The less chemicals i put into my tank water, bothe my fishes and i are happy.

I am so confused right now...my tank is cycled, but I've been using Prime and the API master kit. Can anyone else verify for sure if these two products are not compatible? I'm not doubting your orandas, this is just the first time I've ever heard this. I still test my tank every other day, and I'd hate to miss something because I'm using the wrong products. I do have ammonia present in my tap water, which is why I prefer Prime just for safety's sake.
You are fine. I have used prime and api test kit in conjunction and i get acurate results.

As i understand prime;

1. used for detoxifying ammonia/nitrite, and that situation is usually during a fish-in cycle, or a mini-spike, or in your case in the tap water.

2. then you dose to the required amount, but if the api test kit, is inaccurate with it, you can;
a) buy seachem's test kit(pricey), or
b) go to alloweable max dose(x5) on their label, but thats wasteage of prime,but then how to protect fish? Signs of ammonia burns etc Even seachem's ammonia alert indicator placed inside the tank, gave false readings...go figure.

NB whats not on their label is, this detoxifying 'ingredient', expires in under 24hrs, so if its a fish-in cycle, you have no choice but to daily top up the entire volume of your tank, and not just the volume of the replaced water, like other simple water conditioners. Since yours is just the tap water then you can get away with just the volume of replaced tap ammonia water.But api test result will be inaccurate. Its all unnecessarily complicated, which is another reason, why i don't like prime. All this cost saving malarky is just that. However if you were in a fish-in cyle, not only daily water changes are a must, but daily prime is also a must since, the detoxifyier ingredient expires < 24hrs. Seachem didn't deny it when they called me up, they agreed.

A similiar product to prime is korden's amquel+ it can be used with api test it, and as far as i know the detoxifying ingredient does not expire in <24hrs,but it holds, and if i recall correctly, any excessive unused dose evaporates, so you use it normally, dose for the required replacement volume only, and it lasts, until you physically remove the water.

so if you are useing these products for the purposes of detoxifying ammonia/nitrite etc, then know the difference, distinction, and see if you really are making a saving.

Personally since my tap water doesn't have ammonia/nitrite and now my tanks are cycled, i don't have to use either products.Thank goodness. And shud i ever need to detoxify my tank water, i wud rather just do the water changes with just a simple water conditioner, and not with either of these products.
 

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