White lump on neon tetra
- Thread starter Paula1234
- Start date
A Fish Named Sue
New Member
It’s hard to tell because the picture is a bit fuzzy, but that is most likely Ich (A common fungal disease in tropical fish). Has your neon been acting weird at all lately (does it distance itself from the group, swim erratically, have trouble staying upright)? If all 3 of those match than the poor guy probably has neon tetra disease. (A disease that progresses very quickly, untreatable, and can wipe out a whole school of neons)
I recently had an outbreak of neon tetras disease in my tank but I caught it early and I am sad that 2 fish passed, but VERY LUCKY it didn’t wipe out my school because I caught it early.
ALTHOUGH Your neon does not look very stressed and has a good swimming posture so I am sure that it is probably just Ich. ICH TREATMENT IS SIMPLE!!!!
Just turn up the heater a few degrees and add aquarium salt. Do this whether your neon has Ich or something else, this treats a lot of common freshwater diseases!
I hope I helped... Good luck
A Fish Named Sue
I recently had an outbreak of neon tetras disease in my tank but I caught it early and I am sad that 2 fish passed, but VERY LUCKY it didn’t wipe out my school because I caught it early.
ALTHOUGH Your neon does not look very stressed and has a good swimming posture so I am sure that it is probably just Ich. ICH TREATMENT IS SIMPLE!!!!
Just turn up the heater a few degrees and add aquarium salt. Do this whether your neon has Ich or something else, this treats a lot of common freshwater diseases! I hope I helped... Good luck
A Fish Named Sue
Thanks I don’t think it’s Ich the spot is much too large. It seems fine apart from the spot. I will need to go tmrw and buy a quarantine tank as stupidly I don’t have one.It’s hard to tell because the picture is a bit fuzzy, but that is most likely Ich (A common fungal disease in tropical fish). Has your neon been acting weird at all lately (does it distance itself from the group, swim erratically, have trouble staying upright)? If all 3 of those match than the poor guy probably has neon tetra disease. (A disease that progresses very quickly, untreatable, and can wipe out a whole school of neons)
I recently had an outbreak of neon tetras disease in my tank but I caught it early and I am sad that 2 fish passed, but VERY LUCKY it didn’t wipe out my school because I caught it early.
ALTHOUGH Your neon does not look very stressed and has a good swimming posture so I am sure that it is probably just Ich. ICH TREATMENT IS SIMPLE!!!!
I hope I helped... Good luck
A Fish Named Sue
Thanks for your reply.
A Fish Named Sue
New Member
No problem! Good luck with the fish quarantine!
It is not white spot (Ichthyophthirius).
As mentioned by A Fish Named Sue, it's a bit hard to tell due to being a blurry picture. It could be fungus or something else.
The fish appears to have slightly bulging eyes and a red patch in its sinuses. This can be caused by poor water quality or a dirty tank.
--------------------
What other symptoms is the fish showing?
How long have you had the fish for?
How long has the tank been set up for?
What is the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and GH of the tank water?
What sort of filter do you have?
How often and how do you clean the filter?
How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?
Do you gravel clean the tank when you do a water change?
Do you dechlorinate the new water before adding it to the tank?
Have you added anything new (fish, plants, wood, etc) to the tank in the 2 weeks before this started?
Do you add plant fertilisers, supplements or anything else to the tank?
Are there any other fishes in the tank?
--------------------
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Post some more pictures.
Add some salt, (see directions below).
--------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
As mentioned by A Fish Named Sue, it's a bit hard to tell due to being a blurry picture. It could be fungus or something else.
The fish appears to have slightly bulging eyes and a red patch in its sinuses. This can be caused by poor water quality or a dirty tank.
--------------------
What other symptoms is the fish showing?
How long have you had the fish for?
How long has the tank been set up for?
What is the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and GH of the tank water?
What sort of filter do you have?
How often and how do you clean the filter?
How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?
Do you gravel clean the tank when you do a water change?
Do you dechlorinate the new water before adding it to the tank?
Have you added anything new (fish, plants, wood, etc) to the tank in the 2 weeks before this started?
Do you add plant fertilisers, supplements or anything else to the tank?
Are there any other fishes in the tank?
--------------------
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Post some more pictures.
Add some salt, (see directions below).
--------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
A Fish Named Sue
New Member
Wow you are very knowledgable thanks for a few tips I didn’t know!
Thanks very much for ur help and tips, much appreciated
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