Which Fertilizer ?

[MarchHare]

Need a little help in picking out a fertilizer.
Prefer something that won't impact on my pet Betta.
Water parameters are 0 Ammonia and Nitrites. Nitrates = 40ppm. PH is 6.6 with KH at 1 and GH at 3.
Plants are doing Ok but I feel they could use a little help, especially the Cabomba.
Fish appears to be happy and sassy.
Want to keep him that way.

This is a low tech tank with good CFL lighting.
I've never messed with ferts before, so any help in selecting a good one would be great.
Thanks.
March...
 

 

[BettaBettas]

Co2 Booster (Api)
Flourish
Those are the ones I use
And root tabs

 

[Byron]

I would suggest Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium, to give it its full name (Seachem make several different products in the Flourish line).  This one contains all essential required nutrients (except carbon, oxygen and hydrogen) and with your nice GH at 3 should be adequate.  Another basically identical product is Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti.
 
Root tabs won't benefit stem plants much, with a few exceptions.  Stem plants take up nutrients via the leaves and roots (as do all aquatic plants of course) but more through leaves and roots that will appear from the nodes along the stem.
 
As for CO2, I would not use one of the so-called liquid carbon supplements.  Flourish Excel and API Booster are both glutaraldehyde, a highly toxic disinfectant.  This will kill some plants, Vallisneria seems particularly susceptible, and Anacharis is another.  There is no logical reason to be adding such toxic substances to a tank with fish.  The natural CO2 occurring from the breakdown of organics primarily in the substrate should suffice in a low-tech or natural method tank.
 
IF the plants, esp Cabomba, are in good shape now, after several weeks or whatever, I wold go easy with the fertilizer, maybe half the suggested dose.  Adding too much of these can create problem algae.
 
Byron.

 

[AbbeysDad]

I agree with Byron, especially about using half the recommended dose....or even less. If we strive to obtain a biotope, with some slight exception*, we just might be able to manage a low tech planted tank ORGANICALLY. Uneaten fish food, fish and plant waste are excellent organic fertilizers. In the unplanted tank one strives to remove organic waste from the substrate and filters. Where in the planted tank, these organic wastes are plant food! Dianna Walstad (The Ecology of the Planted Tank) went so far as to say that filtration and water changes were counter productive as they removed nutrients from the water that plants could use.
I believe in all things in moderation to obtain and maintain balance.
 
Notes:
 
1) * In the inert substrate (e.g. lacking natural nutrients) of fine gravel or sand, we would need some modest form of root tabs for rooted plants.
 
2) I have been an organic vegetable gardener in a 3000 sq. ft. garden for some 30 years. I see no reason we can't maintain a planted tank primarily organically with very little use of chemical fertilizers. Admittedly, plants won't grow as fast, but the water will be purer and the fish will be better for it.
 
3) I think one of the secrets that Byron shared with me is in having Malaysian Trumpet Snails to foster the biotope. These snails burrow in the substrate an inch or deeper (as deep as there is oxygen). They not only keep it aerated for plant roots, but their waste fertilizes the plants. (This is not unlike what earthworms do in garden soil).
 
4) The tricky part in this is having sufficient bio-load relative to plant mass and plant type. Unfortunately there's no calculation I know of for determining this. I think you just need to 'listen' to your fish and plants....but better for the fish to go light on chemical ferts. After all, in the wild, these would be considered pollution!

 

[StevenF]

In my opinion CO2 is often not a limiting factor in plant growth.  Why your fish and bacteria in the aquarium are constantly producing it.  Also if you have good aeration of the water or a pump and ayirstone CO2 should stay stabile and any CO2 the plants take up would be quickly added back in.  
 
In my experience fast plant growth can easily be achieved by making sure all micro and macro nutrients are available with sufficient light   Just missing one micronutrient can stop your plants from growing.  Since I am using RO water i have to fertilize.  Otherwise my plants will die.  The first fertilizer I used had everything except copper. It proved to be very good at feeding algae and didn't help the plants.  in fact the algae smothered and killed some plants.  If you get the fertilizer, lighting, and aeration right algae can struggle while your plants grow rapidly.Seachem Flourish Comprehensive is a good choice because it has every one of the micro and macro nutrients.  
 

 
Water parameters are 0 Ammonia and Nitrites. Nitrates = 40ppm. PH is 6.6 with KH at 1 and GH at 3.

You obviously have some deficiencies in your water and a lot of excess nitrate.  The low KH means you have little to no carbonates in the water.  IF you have enough carbonates your PH would be very close to 7.  One consequence of high nitrates is that plants may use up most of the phosphates,potassium  and other nutrients in the water when the feast on the nitrates.  In addition to Flourish Comprehensive. I would add crushed coral or decorative shells to your tank   As it slowly. dissolves in acidic water it will push up KH and pH up.  A quarter cup of crushed coral for every 5 gallons of water would probably be enough for about a year.  Just check it periodically and add more if nessecary.  The KH would go to about 3 or 4, PH to about 7, and Gh might go up one or  two points.  Crushed coral has limited solubility and as a result it won't push the levels much higher.  
 
IN the long term you might want to consider adding some potassium and may be some phosphate fertilizer. Those two would help reduce nitrates but would probably not eliminate them.
 

 
I have been an organic vegetable gardener in a 3000 sq. ft. garden for some 30 years. I see no reason we can't maintain a planted tank primarily organically with very little use of chemical fertilizers. Admittedly, plants won't grow as fast, but the water will be purer and the fish will be better for it.

IF you separated the nutrients out of the soil in your 3000sq. ft. garden from the inert materials in the soil you could probably fill a large truck .  Furthermore rain would yearly wash in more nutrients and tilling the soil will move deal nutrient rich soil up to the surface.  
 
In comparison the aquarium has a very limited volume and many inert substances the don't have any nutrients.  In addition you have to regularly cycle water out of the aquarium to keep nitrates under control.  That depletes nutrient levels in the tank.  The end result is a aquarium can very quickly get depleted in nutrients.  I have been successful in growing about every type of plant i have triedgrowing.  I just supplied good soil, light and water and they typically do very well.  However the first time I tried aquarium plants I quickly ran into problems  and most quickly died.  I was reluctant to use fertilizers but once I did my plants recovered.  

 

[AbbeysDad]

  
 

 
I have been an organic vegetable gardener in a 3000 sq. ft. garden for some 30 years. I see no reason we can't maintain a planted tank primarily organically with very little use of chemical fertilizers. Admittedly, plants won't grow as fast, but the water will be purer and the fish will be better for it.

IF you separated the nutrients out of the soil in your 3000sq. ft. garden from the inert materials in the soil you could probably fill a large truck .  Furthermore rain would yearly wash in more nutrients and tilling the soil will move deal nutrient rich soil up to the surface.
It has become a nutrient rich soil but rain does not wash in (or out) nutrients and worms do most of the tilling now under the mulch cover in my no till organic garden. (sortof how nature built nutrient rich topsoil for eons)
 
In comparison the aquarium has a very limited volume and many inert substances the don't have any nutrients.  In addition you have to regularly cycle water out of the aquarium to keep nitrates under control.  That depletes nutrient levels in the tank.  The end result is a aquarium can very quickly get depleted in nutrients.  I have been successful in growing about every type of plant i have triedgrowing.  I just supplied good soil, light and water and they typically do very well.  However the first time I tried aquarium plants I quickly ran into problems  and most quickly died.  I was reluctant to use fertilizers but once I did my plants recovered.  
As mentioned, in the inert substrate, root tabs are required for rooted plants. In the heavily planted tank, the plants process ammonia and nitrates as their nitrogen source with the potential for minimal partial water changes. I've been doing about 20% weekly and could prolly do less. My tank nitrates are 5-10ppm.

 
I am having great success (knock on wood) in my 60g low tech having silica (pool filter) sand substrate with minimal chemical additives. Admittedly, it's only been planted for about 3 1/2 months but I believe that as this photo shows, it's on it's way to a becoming solid biotope. 

 

 

[MarchHare]

Gentlemen:
Thank you so much for coming to the aid of my small tank.
Just came back from placing an order for Flourish Comprehensive, Flourish Root Tabs, and Carib Sea Crushed Coral. Should get here by Monday.
Tank water values should pretty well compare to my well water parameters which test 0 for Nitrates.
The reason for the 40 PPM Nitrate value is most likely a hold over from a misadventure with Osmocote. Byron may remember an older post when I had misidentified the culprit as my change from a HOB to a sponge filter.
Betta is still enjoying the sponge filter.
In any case I dug most of the Osmocote out. May have missed a ball or two. Went to the LFS and obtained Watersprite, which is what I think sucked out all the excess Amonia and Nitrites.
The crushed coral will also be needed in the future. I intend to have shrimp besides other inverts in my next tank.
Malaysian Trumpet Snails:
I would really like to have these as long as my Betta doesn't attack them.
Do you think that would be OK on gravel in this 5.5 gallon tank. Next tank will have sand.
Very nice tank, Michael.

 

[StevenF]

 
Malaysian Trumpet Snails:
I would really like to have these as long as my Betta doesn't attack them.
Do you think that would be OK on gravel in this 5.5 gallon tank. Next tank will have sand.

The snails will be fine with gravel they cannot travel as fast on a rough surface but that is about it.  my understanding is that there are very few aquarium fish that eat snails.  So chances are your betta will not bother them.

 

[MarchHare]

Thanks Stephen.
This weeks tests show that my Nitrates have dropped to 20. I thought they might, due to the addition of the Water Sprite.
For the first time, I'm showing algae growth at the front of the tank. Obviously as a result of the light increase.
Snails are a difficult decision.
My last Betta tank had a couple of Golden Mystery Snails, which I really liked. Those poor guys were constantly losing their little antennae to the Betta. Finally had to move them to another small tank.
Malaysian Trumpet Snails on the other hand are much smaller and may not run into problems with an aggressive Betta.
However they are very prolific, and I'm not sure that I want a tank full of MTS. Once I got them, I'll be stuck with them.
Decisions, decisions.

 

[StevenF]

 
However they are very prolific, and I'm not sure that I want a tank full of MTS. Once I got them, I'll be stuck with them.
Decisions, decisions.

Some people use assassin snails  to kill off  and eat unwanted snails.  Somewhere on this site I read recently of one person recently using 2 assassin snails to keep his trumpet snail population down.  However it you put too many in or they breed you will end up with no MTS.  
 
The other option is to get a snail that will not breed in a freshwater tank.  Nerite snails live in brackish and fresh water but they only breed in brackish water. Some shrimp varieties are the same, namely Ammano Shrimp  So nerites will do fine in your tank.  If you have a breeding pair they will lay eggs but the eggs will not hatch.  Although they may stick them all over the glass, which some people don't like.  However if you purchase only one you will not get eggs.  IF one is not enough get another but with a different shells color patern (a different sub species of nerite) The two may not bread and therefor will not lay eggs.

 

[AbbeysDad]

I think MTS are great. They burrow in the substrate aerating it and depositing organic fertilizer for the plants. In a way, much like terrestrial earthworms.  I started with 'only' a dozen or so about 3 months ago and estimate there's well over a hundred now. Much of the time I see none of them, but if/when I toss a couple of veggie rounds in they seem to come from everywhere in droves! Now I suspect that in time, much like BB, their population will adjust based on the available food supply. Only time will tell....but in the meantime, they're an important part of the cleanup crew and inch the biotope ever closer.

 

[MarchHare]

My shipment came in yesterday.
I dosed with .6 ml of the Flourish, which is approximate to the directions on the bottle. (5ml for a 60 gallon tank)
And dropped in 1/2 cup of CaribSea Aragonite. That's a bit more than Stephen suggested, But I'll keep an eye on things and pull some if KH/PH start to go too high..
I also have the Flourish plant tabs, which I will put one down next to the Cobamba when I change the water this week end.
Snails:
Really think I should see the KH increase a bit before I get any of the little buggers.
They are a definite addition when I get more comfortable water conditions for them.
Many thanks for your fine suggestions.
I really like the look of this small tank compared to when I first set it up.
I'll have to post a couple of before and after pics.
Thank you all for your help and advice.
Tony...

 

[Byron]

One benefit of Malaysian Livebearing Snails is that they care not about water parameters.  The MLS are to my knowledge the only snails that will be fine in very soft water.  My tanks are zero GH and KH, and my MLS are in the thousands (I have 8 tanks).  They do a tremendous job at getting everywhere to eat the organics, breaking them down faster for the bacteria.

 

[MarchHare]

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So if I did this right it should show a before and after of my 5.5 gallon Betta tank.
The improved light is from a DIY hood with a 5K CFS.. The old one had three poor LED's.
Wow, 8 tanks.
I hope to have three going in the near future. I already have an empty 10 and 29 gallon waiting.
 
 

 

[MarchHare]

So...
Decided to go with Nerite snails.
Reasons: MTS would do best with a sand substrate. I have gravel in this tank. Next tank will have sand.
My most trusted LFS does not have Nerites, so I'll have to check around town to see what I can find.
Going to have to get them as my algae is getting happy with its new home.

If there are any online stores for inverts that you are comfortable with please advise me.
Presently looking at Dr's Foster & Smith.
Many thanks...