Where To Begin? New Setup Aqua One Regency 120, Help Sil Vous Plait&#3

[Schmill]

Well it's the end of the weekend now, so perhaps you have already done it all, but here goes anyway.

Heaters:

Tricky, my tank came with a single 300W heater, so that is what I use, but there are arguments for using say 2 lower powered heaters too...
- One heater at each end of the aquarium should distribute the heat more evenly.
- If a heater thermostat goes faulty in the 'ON' state, it should take less time for a 150W heater (based on you having 2 x 150W heaters) to boil your fish than it would for a 300W heater to do the same thing.

You do have to jiggle around with twin heaters though, and try to balance them, as just setting the thermostats the same may not be enough, and you'll find one heater is on a lot, and the other one is bearly ever switching on.
Personally, I've found the lower power heaters are a similar cost to the higher power ones, so for the sake of cash I would just buy a single heater, but then I check my tank temps most days too...

Gravel Vac:

Couldn't find the tape measure handy, so figured it would be easier with a picture
This is my gravel vac hanging inside my spare Regency 120 tank for purposes of scale. The clear one is the one I use on the Aqua One tank, ignore the green one, I use that on my 60L tank.

I think as long as the main tube is completely under the water the total size is up to you, I just found I didn't really want one with a 'mouth' any bigger than this one so that I could negotiate the plants and ornaments, and also I didn't want one any taller than this as then I think it would start getting a bit awkward trying to feed it and the hose around the strengthening braces at the top of the tank.

Lighting:

Do your T8 tubes have metal reflectors clipped onto them? If not then that would be my first recommendation as that will help to 'throw' more light at the water.
Again it is a tricky subject... I had the T8 hood, but due to it leaking I contact Aqua One for a replacement, and pursuaded them to send me a T5 hood
The T5 do penetrate the water deeper, and are brighter, but the T8's were not dark by any means, and if you are not going for live plants then the T8's will work in your favour by not giving the algea so much light to thrive on
What you might want to do is get a couple of replacement T8 tubes though, as the brightness can fade quite a bit over just a couple of years. I wouldn't bother getting Aqua One tubes in particular though, (unless you choose to), any of the correct length should fit fine

I hope all your floor levelling etc went well. Now waiting for the next installment!

 

[neilgrisdale]

Thanks for the Info Schmill.

Unfortunately i couldn't do any work on the tank on the weekend as i had to go away on business interstate. but yesterday afternoon i did manage to buy a small step ladder, a level and some other goodies i'd need.

I've been given the "go ahead" from a structural engineering firm, but this is only a "advice" report. in order for anyone to be liable i will a proper written report so I'm still tossing up if i just do it, or pay the cost ($600AU = 290 quid... hmm.

I also tried to get some type of floor protection but didn't have time. I'm thinking maybe just some off cuts of carpet now, doubled up and cut to fit pretty much perfectly. That SHOULD do the trick of minimising carpet damage. Or if i can find a long piece of foam or something, that would be better.. but my local hardware store had nothing.

I'm also finding it bizarrely impossible to find the correct hose for my filter.. no one i've been to sells it in that specific size. it's driving me crazy and i can't even find aqua one replacement hose.. it's hose.. come on.. it's gotta be out there! Google has failed me.

Thanks for the pic, so much easier to get a picture in my head now.. Yes i have one very similar though without the duck bill end.. that actually looks like a good idea.

What's the yellow joiner? Is that just your siphon and a pump piece to get the siphon started?

You mentioned "spare regency 120" .. so.. you have two??! it looks like it's sitting on a standard wooden bench?

Heater[/u
I ended up getting the Eheim Jager 200W heater. It's rated to do from 300-400L.

And I'm thinking about ordering another one since i found them at a really great price. Even if i don't use it, it's only $40 (18 quid) with 3 year warranty and if one fails, I'll have a backup! Or if i ever do decide to duel heat the tank then that option is there too..

I'll tank Photo's tonight of everything and post then later too.. i hope the filter still even works, right now i wouldn't know at all!

Testing kits. I have pH, a finer pH tester and i think amonia test kit. I'll need nitrAte and nitrIte too then won't i?

Thanks mate. Pics posted in a few hours

 

[Schmill]

Bah, typed it all once only to have IE go and crash, so here goes again - lol

Don't ya just hate it when worklife gets in the way, still, I guess it does serve the purpose to fund our addiction

Good new re the Structural report. Not sure what I would do next, I guess it depends how confident YOU feel in your floor, (and also perhaps what you would be liable for underneath if the floor did give way?)

Filter Pipe:
Not sure about where you can get the filter pipe, but this site should give you a list of your local stockists you could give a ring around. If they don't have it they should be able to get it in from Aqua One:
http/www.aquaone.co.uk/find_stockist.php

The yellow joiner is a hoselock connector (a very common make here, not sure for you?), but it basically lets me join 2 pieces of hose together, and very simply click them apart. I use them on most of my tank tools that involve pipes as then I can join almost anything to anything else - lol
This one however just has a length of hosepipe on the other side of it so that it reaches the bucket when I am syphoning the tank

LOL - Yes my 'Spare Regency 120'. When I had my first tank,(that one) the plastic canopy leaked condensation all down the tank. I contacted Aqua One and they said they could either reseal my existing canopy, or send me a replacement tank complete with presealed canopy, so I opted for the replacement tank I asked how I should return the original and was told not to bother as the shipping costs on the tanks is to high to make it worth their while, so I now have one cupboard unit, 2 tanks, and 2 hoods. At some point I will be resealing the canopy on both tanks myself, and then either use the second one or sell it on. You are correct as well, at the moment is it sat on an old pine sideboard, fine for it whilst it is empty, but I wouldn't fill it with it sat on there

Glad you got your heater sorted. You may very well get away with just the single heater, it depends a lot on ambient temperature, but certainly at that price I'd be tempted to get another if only to keep it as a spare

As for testing kits, yes, you will need Ph, Ammonia, NitrIte, and NitrAte at a minimum. You may also need a couple of hardness tests, GH and KH, but these tend to be a 'Buy if you need' rather than buying straight away. Again I don't know what you can get, but a lot of people like the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. I personally use that kit and have found it to be good. I would advise you get a liquid based test kit whatever you get, and not the dip-strips, as they tend to be inacurate and sometimes just blatently wrong!

 

[neilgrisdale]

whoaa.. sounds like you really sorted old Aqua One out.. two tanks? That's awesome.. well done. It's not like they don't make enough money already. So what seals weren't correctly sealed? The back end of the tank?
I can't believe they didn't even want the old tank back! i suppose our tanks are massive and moving them is a b&^%h enough, let alone posting them!

So i went shopping today on my lunch break, found a nice little aquarium store just walking distance from work.. uh oh.. this could be dangerous.

Anyways, turns out they are gold partners or something with Aqua one so they stock a LOT of their products, and spare parts.

i FINALLY found some hosing for my CF1200. and they gave me 3 metres of the stuff for $8AU (approx 3 pounds). It's 'Official' Aqua One hosing too.. haha pretty silly but i'm happy.

Also got the following:


Aqua One - Chemizee Ammonia Removal Media - 1kg

Aqua One - External Electronic Thermometer

100 Bioballs 46mm (large) - Aqua One

API - GH & KH Test kit

Floating Magnet - Aqua One - Extra Large

Aqua One - Discus Bits - 85G

Aqua One Canister 1000/1200 O ring Part no. 10699

ChemiCarb (1.2kg pack) - Aqua One - with net bag

Aqua One 1.9M Extra large Siphon Pump Fish Tank Gravel Cleaner

and, wait for it API - Freshwater Master Test Kit This has got NitrAte, NitrIte, Ammonia, pH & high pH test kits with all test tubes, test tube racks.. etc.. 800 tests. Meant to be pretty good apparently (as you said) And i have the GH and KH kit separately also.


Got all the above for about $120 (about 50 pounds). Not bad really considering that's a fair lot of goods.. kind went on a little bit of an impulse buying spree but could have been a lot worse and the prices were amazing!

Anyways, back to business.. I've been given the go ahead with the engineer and the floor. So now all that's stopping me is the support material underneath the cabinet. Still don't know what to actually put there (maybe just carpet as stated previously) But regardless, i'll be starting the fishless cycle of the tank this weekend. I just can't have such a beautiful tank sitting there doing nothing

- So now my Filter should run near like new!

The tank is now completely clean. the hood, the light's, the glass that the light mounts on, the tank and cabinet. All good to go.

By the way Schmill, i have the double T8 lighting system ( i think ) with the fabric (feels like plastic ) reflectors.. i think i'll need to upgrade this at some point as i do want a few plants, but i just don't know what to. What is supported in these hoods? Maybe i take the plunge and get a new plastic hood with the the T5's build in.. I suppose as mine is wood i could just screw more lights into the hood quite easily come to think of it.

I still have to check i have the end piece of the spray bar to attach tonight.. To clarify. The spray bar goes at the top of the tank along the back, and the intake goes vertically on either the right back corner, or left back corner? Is this how yours is set up?

When cycling the tank, as its a pretty much "new setup" so to speak. I've got my prime to dechlorinate the water. My "Stability" to assist with the new tank cycling.
So i'm going to set my old white(ish) gravel in the tank, along with the new black stuff in one corner merging into the other stuff for like a "path" looking affect.

Then i have some ceramic ornaments i'm going to aquascape with.. the plants i'll be buying on the weekend (they are on drift/bog wood, try to get the pH down a tad)..
Then i'm just going to fill the tank with luke warm water (even cold would do i suppose). Add the prime and stability. Prime the CF1200 canister, get that flowing, turn the heater on, put my eheim 200 pump on with air the air stones attached. and then let her ride for a awhile.. then the test kits come into place... this sounds about right? I've heard adding some food here and there helps the cycling process?

Sorry again about the lack of pics, work has been consuming my evenings too but I've finished my current project so have some time off. Pics will be there by latest tomorrow!

Arrg, sorry for the questions again mate.. thanks heaps for the help!

 

[Schmill]

I have yet to discover exactly where the seals are bad on the tank. The tank itself is water tight and sound, it is literally just the seal between the hood and the tank somewhere that is letting condensation through


Looks like quite a shopping trip yuo have been on! You do realise that it is a serious danger to your wallet finding a decent fish shop within walking distance of work right?

As for next steps, please have a good read of the fishless cycling method described here, (probably at least twice )
Fishless Cycling
I did the 'Add and Wait' method that is described there, as I find that easiest and it works best for me.

Hopefully once you have read that my following advice will be better understood.
Of your purchases 2 items are not really neccesary;

ChemiCarb (1.2kg pack) - Aqua One - with net bag
Aqua One - Chemizee Ammonia Removal Media - 1kg

I'm guessing the ChemiCarb is a carbon based filter media. Carbon is GREAT for removing chemicals and medications from the water, BUT it's useful lifespan is fairly short, usually in the order of a few weeks before it is no longer any use. For that reason I would not put it in your filter yet, but keep it 'on standby' in case you need to remove any medications etc from the water at a later date. It might also be useful if you find the bogwood that the plants are on start to release brown tannins into the water and you don't like the look. Personally I don't actually have any carbon.

The Chemizee Ammonia Removal, you ideally want to see if the shop will take back in exchange for some standard cermic media like this: Ceramic Noodles
The problem with the Chemizee is that it does EXACTLY what it says on the tin (tub):

Ammonia is a killer in any aquarium. Chemizee is a naturally occurring mineral which will eliminate or reduce Ammonia in any setup. Change regularly for best effect.

The Chemizee will absorb the ammonia from your tank, which in turn means that the bacteria in your filter do not have that ammonia to feed on, and as such do not multiple as they would without the Chemizee. At some point the Chemizee will become saturated, at which point it will no longer absorb ammonia, and so the levels will build rapidly within your tank. The only way to avoid this is to change the Chemizee regularly, ie. before it becomes saturated, and at that point you are in a vicous cycle of relying on the Chemizee. It is much better to not have it, and allow the ammonia to be processed naturally by bacteria in the filter as described in the Fishless cycling thread above.
Incidently if you do decide to use the Chemizee then Fishless cycling is going to be fairly pointless as you will be adding ammonia to the tank, only to then have the Chemizee remove it again
As you have taken the filter on second-hand it is possible that you don't have the information about what is normally in the filter, so here you go

This is the full manual, but the 'basket layout' for the Aquis 1200 is described on page 5 of the PDF:
Aqua One Aquis CF500-1200 External Canister Filter Manual

This is also the image from the side of my filter box:

The other items you bought look good, the floating magnet cleaner will be much used On that note, when you do use them be VERY careful not to get any gravel or small bits of grit etc between the inner magnet and the glass or you will kick yourself very hard as the glass scratches...
The API test kit will get a lot of use too, mainly when you are cycling the tank / filter, but also from time to time when you are running the tank. It's always nice to be able to reach for the test kit for some reasurrance if things are looking 'funny' in the tank.
The fact that you got all that shopping for the equivalent of £50 is amazing, I'm sure it would cost significantly more here

I really cannot comment on your hood as I have never seen one of the wooden hoods, so I have no idea how the lighting is attached or anything, sorry!
The twin T8's will be fine for the plants, yes, the growth will be slower, but then hopefully so will the algae growth

As for the spray bar position, yes, you have it correct, the spray bar goes across the top back of the tank, and the inlet goes in either rear corner. I have mine in the rear left as my CF1200 is in the left cupboard under the tank. Also my spray bar enters the tank from the left, so the water flows from left to right along the ppipe of the spray bar, and this seems to direct the 'jets' to the right of the tank slightly. Placing the inlet on the left then seems to be to encourage a better flow through the tank. Again, a picture probably describes it better, so here is a bad one - lol

You should be able to make out the vertical inlet pipe in the back left corner, and of course the spray bar across the top.

I like how you have described your layout. I think the black and white contrasts can work very well

My advice for priming the CF1200 by the way is completely different to how the manual will tell you to do it
This is my method, of course feel free to do as you want

Initial Priming of the Inlet pipe (new install)
Despite the recommendation in the manual leave the filter empty of water, do not fill it through the cap in the top.
The very first time you use the filter your inlet hose is going to be empty, so you have to do it the 'drowning' way Suck on the end of the inlet pipe to get the water flowing down the pipe, and once it does turn the tap on the pipe to shut off the flow. You will now be in the situation that you will usually find yourself in after cleaning the filter., (see the next section)

Priming of the Filter (after cleaning for example)
Connect both hoses to the filter, and open the OUTLET tap. If the spray bar is above the surface of the water then this will do nothing, (and is the best way for it to be).
Then open the INLET tap, and the water should start to syphon from the tank into the filter filling it.
Once the filter is full you can switch it on. You will then probably want to give the filter a slight shake and tilt it to and fro to remove any air that is trapped inside it. You will hear the note of the impeller change when it is discharging the air.

Other than that, nothing else for me to say really, other than to remind you again to PLEASE read the fishless cycling post

Good luck