What is this growth on the plants?

CRS

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After coming home from being away for a few days i have noticed this growth on some of the plants, looks like two different types, i have seen it before but this has grown really fast, none of this was hear on Sunday.

I can only assume maybe the plants are getting to much light maybe? I've removed it all from the tank.

Thanks
 

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This is it after taking it out. :nerd:
 

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Hair algae. The easiest way to remove it is twirling it round a bottle brush or toothbrush. But it will come back if you don't work out the cause.
It could well be too much light. How long are they on for?

Edit - CaptainBarnicles posted just as I was clicking reply. That's probably the proper name for it, I just call it hair algae as it looks like hair streaming in the wind :lol:
 
Hair algae. The easiest way to remove it is twirling it round a bottle brush or toothbrush. But it will come back if you don't work out the cause.
It could well be too much light. How long are they on for?

The lights are on a 12 hour timer from 9am to 9pm.

Most of the plants look healthy and are growing fast, i have CO2 in the tank, this is just a small canistor which i manually put in daily.

Could it be lack of CO2 from not being home possibly?
 
To be honest, I know little about CO2 in tanks as I have all 'easy' plants which don't need it. But 12 hours does sound a long time to me. Other members, who know more about plants that I do, will be able to recommend lighting duration when CO2 is used.
 
I would reduce the lighting, twelve hours is a lot. All problem algae is caused by an imbalance of light/nutrients. CO2 is one nutrient but the other 17 have to be available in sufficient quantity to balance. Without knowing the data on the light, and what plant additives you may be using, it is difficult to recommend anything positive, but reducing the light is probably one step that is needed here.
 
I would reduce the lighting, twelve hours is a lot. All problem algae is caused by an imbalance of light/nutrients. CO2 is one nutrient but the other 17 have to be available in sufficient quantity to balance. Without knowing the data on the light, and what plant additives you may be using, it is difficult to recommend anything positive, but reducing the light is probably one step that is needed here.

Thank you, i will start by reducing down to 11 hours and then 10 if that doesn't help, i put plant fertilizer in once a week after a water change. 52ml for a 520L tank. :)
 
Plants get more than 8 hours of light in the tropics :)

Green filamentous/ thread algae generally grows when there is excess nutrients in the water. A big water change and gravel clean, and physical removal should help to get rid of it.
 
Plants get more than 8 hours of light in the tropics :)

Green filamentous/ thread algae generally grows when there is excess nutrients in the water. A big water change and gravel clean, and physical removal should help to get rid of it.
They get more than 8 hours of natural light, with a natural sunrise and a natural sunset at the end of each day and this is natural light, in all of its variations.
The light I'm referring to is of the artificially applied variety which, unless you've got an Aquasky and set up the 'Dynamic' feature, is fairly constant and relentless and of an intensity not normally found in nature.
 
I'll do a big water change on Sunday, cleaning the gravel is good fun only done it a couple of times, if there are to many nutrients would you advise not to use plant fertiliser for a couple of weeks?

I do water changes weekly, should cleaning the gravel be done weekly to?

Interesting with the light, i have different settings so i could always dim it a little to.
 
If you do a gravel clean when you do the weekly water change, then the tank is clean for the next week and you don't have to think about when you last cleaned the gravel.

If you have live plants in the tank, leave a couple of inches of dirty undisturbed gravel around each plant so you don't damage their roots, but gravel clean the open areas without plants.

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When using aquarium plant fertilisers, it is a good idea to do a big water change before re-treating the tank. The water change dilutes any remaining nutrients so there is less chance of overdosing the tank, or having an imbalance of nutrients in the tank.
 
If you do a gravel clean when you do the weekly water change, then the tank is clean for the next week and you don't have to think about when you last cleaned the gravel.

If you have live plants in the tank, leave a couple of inches of dirty undisturbed gravel around each plant so you don't damage their roots, but gravel clean the open areas without plants.

---------------
When using aquarium plant fertilisers, it is a good idea to do a big water change before re-treating the tank. The water change dilutes any remaining nutrients so there is less chance of overdosing the tank, or having an imbalance of nutrients in the tank.

Weekly gravel cleaning it is then! :) I have 50-55 plants in the tank and they all need a very good trim so i'll be extra careful not to damage any roots.

Thanks :)
 
I'll do a big water change on Sunday, cleaning the gravel is good fun only done it a couple of times, if there are to many nutrients would you advise not to use plant fertiliser for a couple of weeks?

I do water changes weekly, should cleaning the gravel be done weekly to?

Interesting with the light, i have different settings so i could always dim it a little to.

There are a couple things to keep in mind here. First, on the light.

Intensity, spectrum and duration are all involved. Duration obviously can be controlled, but it is not a substitute for intensity, or vice versa. The light must be of sufficient intensity to drive photosynthesis, and this varies some according to the plant species; fast growing plants need brighter (more intense) light, slow growing less. This is why some plants, say Anubias, Java Fern, Java Moss, and crypts can do well under less intense light, whereas most stem plants for example will usually not survive because of the low intensity. Spectrum is also a factor; white light is composed of colour wavelengths--look at a rainbow, or light shone through a spectrum--and red and blue are essential for photosynthesis, and green improves the plant's response. If the intensiity and spectrum are OK for what you need, then duration can tweak the light if algae becomes an issue. However, this is not the end of the story.

Nutrients the plants require are 17 in number, some macro and some micro. These must be available to the plants or they cannot use the light. Nutrients can occur from the feeding of the fish and water changes, and in some cases such as low-light slow-growing plants these can be sufficient. The more high-light/fast-growing plants there are, the less likely they will have sufficient nutrients solely from the afore-mentioned, and then you need a supplement. It is safer to use a comprehensive supplement as this provides all necessary nutrients (those left out or minimal are assumed to be provided naturally).

Problem algae can occur when the light is too intense, or too weak, or on for too long, or not on long enough. Assuming the spectrum is OK--if not, you are basically doomed regardless. Problem algae can also take advantage if nutrients are greater than what the plants utilize, or not adequate. This is another reason to use a comprehensive supplement, it ensure everything is being provided. As Colin noted, water changes are good to ensure the balance is reset, but not everything is resolved by a W/C.

Once the balance of light/nutrients is established, we also need to keep in mind that it can be affected by things like the longer and brighter daylight entering the room in summer, or the tank lighting losing its strength (more of an issue with fluorescent tube light than LED).

With the above in mind, I would suggest you go after the light and not eliminate nutrients. This does not mean you ignore the build-up of organics...in the substrate, and in the filter. Keeping these down with weekly water changes including a cleaning of the filter media and substrate in open areas is usually worth it. The fertilizer, if it is a comprehensive one, will be of more importance per say than reducing this and allowing organics to accumulate. For one thing, organics means nitrates likely increasing, and this is detrimental to fish and of no benefit whatsoever to plants in this type of setup (natural or low-tech planted tank).
 
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