What Do I Do With My Filters?

dannym

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Hi all

I just started my first dose of medicene for my fish (Protozin) as a couple have what looks like some fungus infection

Anyway i followed the instructions as it says to remove my carbon filters and my ammonia remover media as well so i done that but wont i loose my benefical bacteria that was stored on the filters? And what do i do with the filters that i have taken out? Do i just throw them? and buy new ones when the course of medicene has finished?...

Thanks for your time

Danny
 
okay... did you remove the media? because if you did you will have an amonia spike and no medication should telll you to remove the media as all the bacteria will die if it drys out or is not "feed". or do you mea zeolite (an ammonia remover).
media should never be removed for a long period of time (more than 20-30mins) or let to dry out. most medication will kill some filter bacteria but most are now developed not to kill any (but they will usualy kill some even f the brand says it will kill 0 its just o you will buy it)
pimafix is good for fungal infections and wont harm any/much of your filter bacteria, a good filter bacteria aditive will help re establish your filter like APIs Stress Zyme or one made buy Nutrafin.
 
Oh man now im confused! The guy in the aquarium said remove the media and it also says on the back of the bottle to remove carbon and ammonia sponges which i did about 2 hours ago

I have just put my sponges back in the water is this too late now? if so what do i do

Thanks
 
Anyone?....

Im pretty sure i need to remove the sponges but im still a novice at keeping fish can someone please tell me what i need to be doing please,

Do i take both of my black sponges & my green out and leave them out for the 4 days whilst im medicating, i really need to know as i have some sick fish

thankyou
 
okay sponges hold almost no bacteria, the media must be placed back into tank water if it is not in the water. the media will be white rings or "stones" and if left to dry all filter bacteria will die resulting in you having to reCycle with a fishin cycle. active carbon is little black pellets that are used to remove medication and tannins from bogwood that must be removed other wise the modication is useless
sponges are mechanical filtration and remove the "chunks" of waste from the water these realy should be left in but if the medication says remove them (im not sure why it would say that) then do so but normal pads which do nothing chemical but just remove the chunks are safe to leave in.
 
OK, what the instructions are telling you to d, is remove all chemical media, i.e. carbon and zeolite, from the filter, as these medias will absorb the meds. Sponge, ceramic noodles and bioball medias should be left in the filter. If you removed any biologicaly active media, and it has been left without ammonia or water for any length of time, the bactiria will mostly have died, resulting at best in a mini cycle. Watch your water stats carefuly, and return your bio media to the filter ASAP. Leave carbin and zeolite out though

HTH
rabbut
 
Ok thankyou im only a novice and did not want to come across like im the expert im just worried about my fish

On the back of the leaflet it says remove carbon and zeolite media from tank and return when dosing is complete (which is 4 days)

Common sence tells me not to take them out but i have done what it says on the instructions

Is there a good chance that im going to have to re cycle my tank now as the filters hold most of the good bacteria, dont they?..
 
Ok thankyou im only a novice and did not want to come across like im the expert im just worried about my fish

On the back of the leaflet it says remove carbon and zeolite media from tank and return when dosing is complete (which is 4 days)

Common sence tells me not to take them out but i have done what it says on the instructions

Is there a good chance that im going to have to re cycle my tank now as the filters hold most of the good bacteria, dont they?..

If you were using zeolite, it was unlikely that you had substantial ammounts of bactiria in the filters anyway, as zeolite would out-compete bactiria for algea ery easily. This is one weakness of using zeolite. It may well allow you to fully stock without any ammonia spikes, but if for some reason you have to remove it, you instantly have ammonia troubles.

Do you have a test kit? I am almost curtain that you will experience an ammonia spike within a few hours. If you do not, assume that there is an ammonia spike, and carry out twice dayly waterchanges, arround the 50% mark, to keep any ammonia at bay untill you can get a test kit :good: Liquid drop checks are best. I would advise you to scrap the zeolite, and move to a biological way of removing ammonia, thus reducing the chances of you having to re-cycle your tank at a later date, for the same reason as you do now. If you haven't alread, I would advise you to have a look at the following thread on fish-in cycling; [topic="10099"]here[/topic] Here is the most important bit from the thread;


How to Save the Day (and the Fish) with an Un-Cycled Tank

OK, so you didn't do Fishless Cycling or you did scrub out your matured tank and now your fish are dying and nothing's breaking down that ammonia and nitrite. What do you do now? unsure.gif

Here's what I do to give my fish the best chance:
1. Immediately do a 10-15% water change with dechlorinated water and continue to do this at least once daily until your tank is cycling (i.e. ammonia and nitrite are at zero).

2. Test the water daily for ammonia and nitrite until the values are holding at zero for several days running. If levels are high, do an immediate, extra water change.

3. If at all possible, get some matured filter media and/or gravel from a matured tank and put it in your tank, suspended in an old stocking. This will hopefully impregnate your new tank with the beneficial bacteria. One lady successfully used floss from a relative's fish pond to colonise her new tank! (you have to be careful that what you use is clean and free from pathogens, of course).

4. Keep good aeration in the tank both to help the fish a little and to oxygenate those beneficial bacteria.

5. Avoid using medications, if at all possible, as many medications kill off beneficial bacteria. Your fish may well get ick, fungus or other infections due to the stress of the ammonia and nitrite but the priority is to get that water quality as good as possible.

6. If you have delicate fish in the tank, such as plecos, corys or other bottom dwellers, tetras, pencilfish etc. try to re-home them temporarily, such as asking the Local Fish Shop to look after them until your tank is cycled (after all, chances are that they got you in this mess in the first place).

7. Live plants can directly use ammonia, so if you can, put some cheap aquatic plants in the tank, such as elodea or giant vallis.

8. Don't feed your fish at all if your ammonia readings are high, and only feed bare minimum rations every other day, until the tank cycles. This will cut down on the ammonia the fish produce. Since fish are cold blooded creatures and don't need the calories of a mammal they can go several days without food anyway, and the occasional fast is good for them. Your fish may not be very hungry anyway so do be careful not to feed more than the fish can eat and clean up uneaten food immediately, before it rots and produces even more ammonia.

9. Only clean the gravel superficially, of obvious dirt and uneaten food. You want the bacteria to colonise it and actually start to grow. Also, don't swap out your filter at this point - if it gets blocked, just clean it enough to unblock it, in used tank water.

My further notes. Do not allow ammonia or nitrite to rise above 0.25mg/l, as it becomes damaging short-tearm above these values. Any detactable reading will be damaging as a long-tearm thing.

HTH
rabbut
 
The reason I use Protozin is that it doesn't harm the filter bacteria. It will stain the filter media blue, but won't harm it in any way. You have to remove carbon and such, but that's the same for adding any medication to a tank.
 

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