mnemonik23
Fish Fanatic
Cool, thanks for updates and helping me be patient!
Btw, I do not have real plants, except for Java Moss, which I have quite a bit
Btw, I do not have real plants, except for Java Moss, which I have quite a bit
Actually I do have high level of nitrites. I listed 5.0 as it's as high as API test card has it. But I know they are off the chart since drops turning purple immediately after reaching the bottom of the test tube.Java moss is a real plant and uses a fertilizer called nitrogen just like a real plant. If you have very high levels of nitrites, which you may have shortly, it is often a good idea to do a water change that brings levels down to where you can read them easily. I'm not sure what is going on there, maybe the n bacs have a hard time with high levels, but people uasually do a bit better with reasonable nitrite levels during the cycle. The nitrate test can also be somewhat affected by high nitrite levels so that could add to confusion about what the nitrates are doing. Another thing that is well known to affect the nitrate test accuracy is how thoroughly you mix the reagents. When it says to shake for at least 30 seconds, try a minute or more for good mixing. It will give you more consistent results.
Its fishless, not fish-inDo a series of 50% water changes with 1 hour in between each change until you get it low.
Its fishless, not fish-in
Yes, lol, has happened to me on several occassions and left me dreaming of board software that "would softly glow with a "cycle type" and "tanksize" entry over in the lefthand profile area" when a beginner entered the New to the Hobby forum and posted.Its fishless, not fish-in
I forgot! lol That's what I get for skimming instead of goign back and reading the whole thing
It is, 10/21 - 60% water change. When I posted about no change in nitrates a couple of members suggested to do a water change because high nitrites sometimes affect nitrate test readings...Filter bacteria colonies are very fragile for the first 6 months, so it is entirely possible that the loss of flow through the media while you waterchanged caursed a die-back. They will grow back again in a few days, it just means a small delay. This is why we advise, usualy, not trying to fix stuff unless it is broken What were your reasns for a waterchange? There is none noted in the log
All the best
Rabbut
I see. So, what do I do when cycle is done and I'm ready for a 90% water change before adding fishes? I will have to turn off filter (Hagen HOB) and water will not flow trough it. Plus, in hagen's filters level of water goes down and covers only the bottom sponge media when filter is off.OK, I always thought that nitrite always gave a false high on a nitrate test kit, not a false low This is because many kits "convert" nitrate back to nitrite before reading from there, so obviously if there is nitrite in the sample, it makes for a higher reading...
Things are still moving, so there isn't anything major going on, but I personally think the waterchange hasn't helped much, if at all Might even go as far as saying it lengthened the time needed for the ammonia to process...
All the best
Rabbut