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What are Cories Susceptible to

Ok what about if all my filter media is replaced one a month then do I lose a significant amount of good bacteria? (the filter on my 10 gallon tank uses media that is the foam, carbon and thing to house bacteria all in one piece) Also I may change more water than I need to. How bad is changing "too much water"?
I usually take 2 or 3 19L buckets worth out of both of my tanks weekly (the tricky part in calculating percentage changed is that the buckets of water taken out aren't quite full, about 3 inches from the top and I take out one bucket then add refill the take then take another bucket out etc.). The reason I take so much water out is that there seems to be a lot of poop and or uneaten food in the gravel.

First, you really cannot ever change too much water, provided the parameters (GH, pH, temperature) of the tank water and the replacement (fresh) water are reasonably similar. However, most of us do not want to be doing massive water changes every day, and the fish might or might not get used to all that disruption in their "home," so we do one change each week as a minimum, and make that a significant change by doing at least half the tank volume but more is better. I change somewhere around 60-70% of the water in each of my tanks every week. I just drain the tank down so the water is below mid-level (which is going to be around 60% because of the displacement by substrate and décor which lessens the amount of water).

Second, you must drain out all the water you intend changing before you replace any of it. The purpose in water changes is to get rid of as much of the "pollution" as possible. "Pollution" here is referring to all the detrimental stuff that accumulates in the water because primarily of the fish but also partly due to the biological workings of an aquarium. As an example, let us suppose the fish in your tank produce "pollution" at a level of 50%. Removing only 25% of the tank water and replacing that will dilute this pollution by 25%, so 75% of the initial 50% is still in there. Removing 25% of the water a second time is removing only 25% of the 75% that was left, which is significantly less "pollution" removed. By contrast, removing 50% of the initial 50% at one go removed half of the 50%, leaving only 25% of the original, instead of 75%. So the more water changed at one time, the better.

Definitely vacuum the substrate during the siphoning out of the water. The organics decomposing in the substrate can increase nitrates and harm the fish in this and other ways.

As to the filter...in a balanced healthy aquarium,. there are more bacteria in the substrate than in the filter. Technically, you should be able to turn off the filter comp[lately with no detrimental consequences. The biological system must be able to support the fish load. Filters are primarily used to keep the water clear by removing suspended particulate matter but this is really for our benefit because the fish generally do not care about clear water (though cloudy water may indicate other serious issues, that's another topic). But keeping the water "clean" is a very different thing, and here you want the system to be able to manage with or without the filter. A major water change every week will have considerably more benefit to the health of the fish than any filter can possibly achieve because the filter can only do certain things. All the dissolved substances in the water are still there, and need to be physically removed.

Having said that, obviously filter bacteria is important, but once the tank is established, and provided you are not pushing the biological system past its capability, there should be no issues arising from cleaning or replacing the filter media. I rinse mine under the tap at every water change, and have been doing this for over 25 years now. I do have plants and they are sufficient in themselves to any filter, but even so there is no reason that cleaning/replacing the filter media should cause issues. Now, don't take this differently from what I'm intending...I said established tank, biologically balanced. A new tank takes a few months to reach this state and caution won't hurt. I wouldn't replace the filter media unless it is so worn it is no longer serving the purpose; water has to be able to flow through it relatively easily, or it is ineffective.
 
Ok makes sense. So tell me about carbon then? Do I not need to replace it once a month or so?
 
Ok makes sense. So tell me about carbon then? Do I not need to replace it once a month or so?

Carbon is chemical filtration because it alters the water chemistry. Filtration has three aspects, chemical, biological and mechanical. Mechanical is or should be the most important because this moves the water through media that remove microscopic and larger suspended particulate matter, keeping the water "clear." But as I said previously, clear and clean are two very different things. Most any filter will provide mechanical filtration, and this is most effective when the media is very fine such as sponge, foam, filter floss. Biological filtration for our purposes refers to the nitrification cycle, and that will occur on any media in the filter where bacteria can colonize, as well as almost everywhere in the aquarium. The substrate is the highest density of bacteria and here there are nitrifiers and other types, some de-nitrifiers. I won't get into that, but just remember that your substrate is the important filter bed, not the filter per say.

So carbon changes the water chemistry and it does this by adsorbing (adsorbing, not absorbing) pollutants. As it does this it will become more and more full and clog, after which it is no longer doinng anything chemical but will still serve as biological (any media will) and some mechanical perhaps. It cannot be "recharged" so it gets tossed and replaced. The time varies as it depends upon what the carbon is adsorbing. The more pollutants, the faster it becomes clogged. The more fish, the faster as there is more to adsorb.

That brings us to the question, do you even need carbon? Most of us here say no. If you have live plants, definitely remove (or do not replace) the carbon, because it is (when adsorbing) also adsorbing nutrients like organics that the plants need and there is no point in making their lives harder. Carbon is useful after using a medication as it can adsorb many (perhaps most, I'm not sure) of these quickly. In tanks with no plants, I would not say no to carbon, or yes, but it can't hurt. It can get expensive replacing this every few weeks or more often, but then if the tank is not biologically balanced something like this may be helping. A balanced aquarium does not need carbon, and with live plants, never.
 
Ok thanks! Is there a way to know for sure if your tank is balanced? Or is it a guessing game?
 
Ok thanks! Is there a way to know for sure if your tank is balanced? Or is it a guessing game?

This is a scientific hobby, and understanding the basics is the key to success. A biologically balanced aquarium is one that basically runs itself aside from regular water changes (and feeding the fish/plants). The fish are not too many for the system to easily handle, the species are fully compatible (not just behaviours/aggression here but species that have the same requirements respecting water parameters, aquascaping, filter flow, lighting, etc) and there are sufficient numbers of the species when they are shoaling fish. If these factors are provided, the tank should become fairly self-sufficient/balanced (aside from the WC's and feeding) within a few months. Tests for nitrates and pH will always be the same for weeks, months, even years when this is achieved.
 
Ok thanks! At first I didn't realise how much went into this but I think I am getting it now. I will be back if I have more questions.Thanks for the help everyone!
 
@Byron is correct when he says it will come to balance. Just be aware that regular observation is important to enable you to spot other changes, not directly related to chemistry. For example your tank may receive more or less light with season changes which could affect your plant or algae growth. There are other factors. Temperature is the obvious one if you have no aircon in summer. Less obvious is plant growth. My tanks have plenty of floating plants. These plants grow very quickly and if I don't notice that will block the light from reaching the lower plants which will then stop growing or develop algae. The fix for that is easy, thin out the plants. But then I am adding more light to the tank and may need a small adjustment to my lighting.
It is certainly not something that you need to monitor and adjust daily (or even weekly). I mention it purely to point out that a completely self maintaining tank that only ever needs food and water changes is unlikely. I no longer test the water regulalry because I know what the results will be. I do still have the test kits so that if there is a problem I can verify that it is / is not the water chemistry. But I do sit in front of my tanks and just watch what is going on - in fact I probably do far too much of this ;)
 
- in fact I probably do far too much of this

Isn't that why we keep fish though?

I haven't noticed any real difference to the summer heat. I am resigned to the fact of my floating plants dying, assuming there is nothing I can do about it. They are salvinia minima. The person I got them from said they don't like moving water, which I don't know how to accomplish if I am doing water changes. Also I think my fish try to eat them mistaking them for flake food which isn't helping anything.
 
I am resigned to the fact of my floating plants dying, assuming there is nothing I can do about it. They are salvinia minima. The person I got them from said they don't like moving water, which I don't know how to accomplish if I am doing water changes.
What they don't like is getting their leaves wet. I don't notice any dying off after a water change, and of course they multiply between water changes.

In particular they don't like their leaves to stay wet, which means they really don't cope with humidity. My way around this in my community tank is to leave the feeding cover open. I have also balanced a couple of pencils across the rear corners to ensure the top does not seal properly. I can't just leave the lid off because I have 2 very inquisitive cats. This is enough for this tank and my salvinia and frogbit is thriving. My other tank is full of escape artists (shrimp and a nerite) so I can't keep these plants in there. Fortunately water sprite grows well in that tank - I can't keep it alive in the community tank.

Since my main concern is the fish I tend to favour plants that do well in the tank without too much work on my part. If something doesn't work I just try something else that does.
 
Ahhh that makes sense. Thanks! I will try propping it open and if that doesn't work do you have any suggestions of plants to try next? I originally got those because I was told floating plants grow faster than java fern and so would use a lot more nitrates and such. I was also told that the cories need shade.
 
The "moving water" you mention in post #25 refers to surface disturbance that tosses the plants around and keeps them wet, as seangee said. It has nothing to do with water changes.

Most tropical plants need one or more periods of vegetative rest during each 12-month year. Temperate plants get this when they go into "hibernation" during colder months, so they can save up for spring new growth and flowering, etc. Tropical plants do not usually die back but they will go through periods when they do not grow much if at all. Salvinia is no different; I have it in a couple tanks, and it will go through a massive growth period when it can cover the entire surface in a week, but several weeks later it will barely reproduce at all for a period.

Be careful keeping thee tank cover open. Generally this is not advisable. Water evaporates faster (which not only means adding more but it evaporates into the air and thus into the structure of the room which yo0u really do not want. Dust and other things can get in the water and this can be troublesome for fish and plants, and it can interfere with the gas exchange at the surface.

Floating plants do use more nutrients because they grow faster, and light at the surface benefits this as it is obviously stronger to drive photosynthesis. Almost any floating species will do. Water Sprite (Ceratopteris cornuta) is probably the best; once established this is a beautiful plant, a fern actually, and adventitious plants will be produced on alternate fronds quite readily. Frogbit and Water Lettuce are two others sometimes available. Some of the stem plants do well left floating, Pennywort is my favourite for this.
 
Be careful keeping thee tank cover open. Generally this is not advisable.
Just to clarify, when I said feeding cover I meant the little flap that is lifted to insert food, not the tank cover. In essence I am creating a small hole in the cover.
And yes this does increase evaporation. In my case I'm ok with this - but it is something you need to be aware of.
 
Huh ok.... I figured you meant the flap you open to feed fish but if I put a pen or pencil there it would fall in every time I open it to feed. I stuck one pen under the back corner of the lid so as to lessen the humidity like seangee said. It is barely open any more than before. Will it even lessen the humidity or be an issue otherwise? As to turbulance that keeps the plants wet, that happens when I change water because I can't keep the plants sectioned off as the water level goes down. So then when I dump new water in from a bucket the plants get pummeled and swirled around by the water being poured in. I worried about but cannot think of a fix for it. Is there any non floating plants that grow quick?
 

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