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Weird PH liquid test readings

Is the QT tank full of water now? That might be one way of finding out if the seiryu stone in the main set up is raising the pH, because you would have a "control" if that's the right term with the QT tank. I know me and you have both had the same issue with the API pH liquid tests, but they are probably good enough for what we need to know. The key thing for you would be to find out if there is going to be a difference between tap pH and tank pH, either way, at least you are not experiencing any extreme pH ranges.
Such a clever suggestion! I should have thought of that. Right now my wide range strips gave a reading of 7.25 PH in the main/display tank (with the seiryu stone), and 7.0 PH in the QT.

Last water change in the main tank was a 20%ish, three days ago. (Keeping nitrate down from cycling)

Only a slight difference between the two but between the water in the QT being fairly new and also the stone in the main tank, who knows.

The highest PH reading I've had in my main was 7.6 on August 15th but that was an API liquid PH test, which has been very inconsistent for me.
 
As you are becoming a water parameter nerd like many of us, have you got the tests for GH and KH? There is a good saying that we keep water and the water keeps the fish, so I think the obsession with water parameter is actually good! And best of all, it's good for the fish!!!
I don't have any liquid test for those, but I have a test strip that measures those. I never wrote down those in my notebook but I'm pretty sure I have soft water. Which is nice unless the stone causes issues
 
Having spent a lot of time reading on this forum than doing other things that need doing in my life lately, I am firmly of the opinion that just sticking to the API liquid tests are the best way forward, because lots of others also use them which means that when there is issues we can all relate or have some problem-solving suggestions.
As to the liquid PH test by API, I'm not quite sure what I'm doing with that. (See my quote below)
Today it's clear that either there is a fault in my kit or I'm reading/testing it wrong lol
With the PH test I'm reading 7.6 or above, and on the high range PH test I'm reading 7.4 or below.
PH test will only show 7.6 even if the PH is higher, and the high range will only show 7.4 if the PH is actually lower.
In theory would that mean that it is: a) lower than 7.4 and b) higher than 7.6
Which doesn't make any sense to me.
But if the PH was 7.25 like the strip, then it would show up on the API liquid test closer to the 7.2 reading instead of completely blue which would suggest either 7.6 or higher.

My thought was then: "logically, if it is 7.6 or higher, on the high range test it would show up as at least anything higher than the lowest high range reading which is 7.4"
(It didn't)
So I then bought ECENCE wide range strips as a tie breaker of sorts but even though those are far easier to read, still giving a different reading than the API liquid.

PH is important for different fish species, so I'm trying my best to figure it out. I don't know which of the tests to believe!
 
As to the liquid PH test by API, I'm not quite sure what I'm doing with that. (See my quote below)

PH test will only show 7.6 even if the PH is higher, and the high range will only show 7.4 if the PH is actually lower.
In theory would that mean that it is: a) lower than 7.4 and b) higher than 7.6
Which doesn't make any sense to me.
But if the PH was 7.25 like the strip, then it would show up on the API liquid test closer to the 7.2 reading instead of completely blue which would suggest either 7.6 or higher.

My thought was then: "logically, if it is 7.6 or higher, on the high range test it would show up as at least anything higher than the lowest high range reading which is 7.4"
(It didn't)
So I then bought ECENCE wide range strips as a tie breaker of sorts but even though those are far easier to read, still giving a different reading than the API liquid.

PH is important for different fish species, so I'm trying my best to figure it out. I don't know which of the tests to believe!
Not sure why you are saying your API tests are incorrect. Essjay said in this thread already that your high range API test reads 7.4 pH. The low range API test reads at around 6.8 pH from what I can tell (the lighting there is a shadow on the color card so it's hard to tell really by the pic you put). For the API tests, you need to hold the vial directly on a white part of the color card (make it touch it even) and have light iluminate it to read it properly. I put some laminate on my color cards/booklets so they don't get ruined by me putting my wet hands on it during tests.

Also note that if you are doing pH readings during different times of the day they can fluctuate.
 
Not sure why you are saying your API tests are incorrect. Essjay said in this thread already that your high range API test reads 7.4 pH. The low range API test reads at around 6.8 pH from what I can tell (the lighting there is a shadow on the color card so it's hard to tell really by the pic you put). For the API tests, you need to hold the vial directly on a white part of the color card (make it touch it even) and have light iluminate it to read it properly. I put some laminate on my color cards/booklets so they don't get ruined by me putting my wet hands on it during tests.

Also note that if you are doing pH readings during different times of the day they can fluctuate.
I had no idea that the time of day affects PH readings!
The reason I was doubtful of the API liquid PH test was because the first few times I used it, it gave me the same reading as my strip tests. But then four days after that it gave higher PH readings than the test strips (the test strips had remained consistent) and has ever since
 
Hobby test kits can be hard from which to get a good reading. There are a few potential reasons for this. The first and most important is they are based on color. Color can be defined to a level which we cannot determine with out eyesight. On top of that our vision is subjective. So 10 people looking at test results can draw 10 different conclusion. The second issue is there are specific things which can be in the water which will cause test results to be inaccurate. Understanding all of this becomes easier when one kno
w how scientists test parameters.

The first thing is that they do not rely on their vision to interpret results. They use digital equipment to determine the exact color frequency of the sample. There is no question re the accuracy as their is when we look at the tune and color charts. Next, science knows what things will interfere with getting accurate results and how to deal with such interference. One way is they put a sample of same water into a different compartment of the testing equipment and it can compensate the results. For other things that this compensation will not help, they have ways to counteract things.

Here is the chart that comes with the relatively inexpensive Hach ammonia testers It will run you about $700.
AmmoniaInterefers.jpg

We usually do not know if any of the above may be causing issues with out testing. The most frequent one would be Iron.

However, for most cases in which we use them, our test kits are not normally greatly inaccurate or unusable. However, we also need to be aware that inexpessive test kits like the ones mos of us use are not even close to 100% reliable. A pefect example is Iron. As the above chart indicate, any amount of iron in the water can effect ammonia test results. How many of us test for iron before we test for ammonia?

But consider this the next time you read a post whoich states somebody is getting a constant reading of ammonia at .25 ppm. My bet is the test result is wrong and it could be dure to iron in one's tap water. And then what about those of us who add a comprehensive fertilizer for our plants.

If you use SeaChem Flourish you should note that this appears on the lost of ingredients:
Iron (Fe)0.32%

Please, do not conclude from the above that our tst kits are not useful. However, also understand that they can have issues which will interfere with out getting an accurate reading. Often it should be somewhat obvious when readings are not quite right. That .25 ppm of ammonia for days on end is a good clue.

For the most part our kits can give us a good idea of what is going one in a tank, but this does require we have a bit of knowledge so we have some idea when numbers seem unexpected to be able to understand why. The most common causes are user error and/or expired test kits. User error covers everything from how we see colors to out failing to clean equipment properly before and after testing are simply making a mistake in doing the test- i.e. too many or too few drops, using a finger to cap the tube instead of it's cover etc. And this doesn't cover test strips.

I have never used strips, not even for testing our pool water. There are actually decent test strips out there and they are more expensive the same as any more scientifically accurate testing.
https://nz.hach.com/ammonia-nitrogen-test-strips-0-6-0-mg-l/product?id=14533348823&callback=qs

edited to ix typos
 
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I've started recently using this as well, and it's nice because you don't have to use liquids to test. Digital pH tester
Make sure to follow instructions about soaking in distilled water if sensor hasn't been used in a while or is dry.
 
If the sensor is allowed to dry after being wet, it normally becomes useless.
A dried out probe causes inaccurate reading, and could mean it needs to be replaced. Or if you stored your electrode using a different buffer solution or even a distilled water, the sensor in your electrode can be damaged which eventually affect your pH readings

Most decent testers com with or suggest a callibration package and storage solution. The storage sloultions heeps the probe properly hydrated so it will work properly the next time. I gave up pent testers for a continuoys monitor so my pH probe never dries out.
 

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