Water quality

BillyBigBananas

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I have just done a water test

Ph 8.6
Ammonia & nitrite 0
Nitrate 30ppm

Is the ph too high, its the second highest reading on the alkaline scale?
 
Ouch most likely not. What fish do you currently have? How big is the tank? Does it come out of your tap at this level?
 
As impur says, first test your tap water to establish if it is coming in to the tank this high. ;)
 
it is a bit high......dependin on fish really tho...but if u got a comunity set up then a pH is usually about 6 - 7.6

usin RO water will bring it down apparently

Tek :fish:
 
I just read that if you add rocks to the setup (I have just created a large slate cave, it can increase mineral hardness).

Just tested tap and it is 7.6 I reckon some water changes are in order... Anyone know of high ph being dangerous to fish.
 
My tap comes out at 7.6 and my fish thrive. I haven't had a disease or lost a single fish, well with the exception of target fish. Slate wouldn't raise your ph what other decorations do you have? What is your substrate?
 
As impur says slate wouldn't do it.
pH range tolerance for fish depends on the fish. Some do like it high. ;)
 
Only other decor is plants and driftwood. The substate is lime free gravel.

Hmm, I did a 15% water change this morning so Im going to keep a regular eye on it.

Thanks for the advice.
 
i've had the same trouble.......mine is 8.2 and my tap water is 7.4 apparently my water supplier said ph rises when left sitting....... ive tried easy balance and other stuff and it don't seem to work so i'm getting some RO water at the wkend to make life easy for myself cause this has been one big headache.
 
my water supplier said ph rises when left sitting

I think that is incorrect. You would have to let an aweful big container just sit around for days on end to get it to jump that high. Besides its not just sitting in your tank. There is current, filtration, airation etc.

This is taken from a previous post by fishsmurf and covers PH VERY well.

Before explaining KH + GH it is probably best to understand that there is a third property that makes up the water chemistry triangle in a freshwater tank, this third property is PH. All three of these properties have an effect on our water chemistry.

PH is used to denote whether the water is acidic (PH reading below 7), neutral (PH reading of 7) or alkaline (PH reading of above 7). PH is fundamental in providing a good environment for our fish to live, all species have a PH range that they will be happiest in, therefore the more constant & stable we can keep the PH the happier our fish will be. For the beginner is is probably easier to match our chosen species to the PH we have as opposed to trying to adjust PH to suit a specific species.

KH refers to the ability of our water to resist change in PH. This ability to resist change is known as carbonate hardness or more commonly buffering. Therefore when a KH reading is taken, the higher the KH reading the stronger the ability to resist changes / fluctuations in PH. A strong buffering capacity is beneficial if you have the PH that you require to keep the species of fish you are interested, however if your are trying to alter your PH for any reason a high KH reading is going to make it more difficult to effect this change.

Finally GH or General Hardiness, when water is referred to as hard or soft GH is the property being referred to. Water hardness is measured on two scales either DH (degree's hardness) or the chemical compound measured (CaCO3) in ppm (parts per million), both of these measurements can be used although most test kits will utilise the ppm measurement system. The two systems equate as:

0 - 4 dH or 0 - 70 ppm = very soft water
4 - 8 dH or 70 - 140 ppm = soft water
8 - 12 dH or 140 - 210 ppm = medium hard water
12 - 18 dH or 210 - 320 ppm = fairly hard water
18 - 30 dH or 320 - 530 ppm = hard water

As mentioned at the beginning all three of these properties are distinct, however it is important to realise that PH, KH & GH all interact, therefore any alteration to one will have an impact on the other two. Having said that with careful monitoring and control it is possible to make adjustments to these properties without having to rely on shop brought chemical additives such as PH Down.

Two thing really that should stand out would be:

1) A stable pH is more important than aiming for a specific pH.

&

2) It's better not to aim to alter the water for the specific species you keep but rather to adjust the species you keep to match the water condtions you have.
 
i don't leave it for days.... (overnight)......when i started keeping my fish i was told to do that.... When i tested water that i left overnight it went up to 7.8 and it's in a 3 gallon bucket for water changes and a 2 gallon bucket (am i doing it wrong?) ... straight out of the tap it's 7.4 and when i checked it in my tank it was 8.2 i just don't get it :blink: before i had fish water was just for washing in didn't realise how complicating it can be :stupid:..... sorry billy this is your thread :D
 
no probs caz,

Im even more confused now... did a 15% water change last night, tested just now and its back to 7.8?!

So either

- a partial water change miraculously did the job
- there was something wierd going on with my 8.6 test e.g. residue in the old testing vial or something?

No idea, happy though ph is down!
 
Hi BillyBigBananas

One question i have to ask, is, did you test the pH at the same time of the day? The reason I ask this is, because the CO2 level in the tank water will change the pH reading. As the plants give off CO2 over night, it will cause the pH level to rise. As the level of CO2 is reduced during the day, the plants use CO2 for photosynthis (spelling), the pH will drop. In heavily planted tanks the pH swing can be greater than 1 over the day.
 
caz27 if you are having ph probs by letting it sit overnight, i would suggest getting a dechlorinator like stress coat and just add that to the bucket, swirl it around, and dump it in the tank. Problem solved :) Thats what i do.
 

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