Water level question

[Horsesarefun]

So I have a I believe a 125 gallon aquarium. Dimensions are 6ft x 18 x 24. 1/2 inch glass. I got it free. I stripped it, resealed it and have had it now for over a year, no issues. The tank is on a 1/4 inch foam mat on, 7 foot 2 inch thick, 12 inch wide boards, with cinder blocks as the base. I but fence picket boards around the bottom. This tank is heavy as he?%, getting it there was a pain in the rear. Question I have is if you look, the tank isn't fully level. didn't realize how much until after tank was filled and it seemed to have settled. I think it's maybe a 1/4 inch angled. I really don't want to have to empty and try and re-level as I can't do it by myself.

Other question I have is that it has no center brace and know the older aquariums built with 1/2 inch glass didn't need center brace but I want to get a couple glass canopy but how to I put in a center brace without disturbing the integrity of the tank. Any thoughts? Haven't noticed any bowing, if so it's less than a 1/4 a inch if any at all.

Also, don't mind the filter on the bottom of the tank lol... Didn't realize it was on the bottom of aquarium until after I snapped the photo.

 

[jaylach]

Is the base of the stand a matrix or solid? If so, and you have a floor that will allow, you MAY be able to shim the low side to make level.

You can also just ignore the off level if the gap on the high side isn't much.Just use some sort of trim material to lower the top view of the tank so the gap can't be seen.

 

[Horsesarefun]

Is the base of the stand a matrix or solid? If so, and you have a floor that will allow, you MAY be able to shim the low side to make level.

You can also just ignore the off level if the gap on the high side isn't much.Just use some sort of trim material to lower the top view of the tank so the gap can't be seen.

The bricks are two high on each corner of the tank and two sets in the center of the tank. So basically two sets of masonry block every 18 inches under the tank. A total of 16 blocks. And this tank weighs 250 pounds without water. No way on Gods Green Earth gonna shimmy anything under it without emptying it. Was hoping to avoid that.

 

[Horsesarefun]

The bricks are two high on each corner of the tank and two sets in the center of the tank. So basically two sets of masonry block every 18 inches under the tank. A total of 16 blocks.

I need to top the water off and normally you can't see the water line when it's at the right level.

 

[TNG]

Other question I have is that it has no center brace and know the older aquariums built with 1/2 inch glass didn't need center brace but I want to get a couple glass canopy but how to I put in a center brace without disturbing the integrity of the tank. Any thoughts? Haven't noticed any bowing, if so it's less than a 1/4 a inch if any at all.

Also, don't mind the filter on the bottom of the tank lol... Didn't realize it was on the bottom of aquarium until after I snapped the photo.

If you silicone a centre brace to the top of the tank it won't affect the structural integrity of the tank. If you drill holes in the tank, then it might.

 

[Colin_T]

Aquariums that are 6 foot long x 18-24 inches wide x 24 inches high are normally made from 10mm thick glass if they have support straps and cross members on the top. If they don't have this, then they get made from thicker glass (12mm/ half inch). Your tank is made from half inch thick glass so should need cross members and support straps. However, I always feel safer it they have them.

If you want to add a couple of cross members you will need to reduce the water level as much as possible (remove at least 75% of the water) to remove any bowing in the glass before gluing the cross members in place. There will be some bowing even if it's only a couple of mm. The water level will need to be left low for a week while the silicon dries.

Cross members are normally applied every 2 feet so you would have 2 cross members on a 6 foot tank. Each cross member is 3-4 inches wide and normally the same thickness as the tank (12mm/ half inch). Because your tank is already half inch thick glass, you could get away with 10mm thick cross members and support straps. Also since your tank is half inch you are probably fine with only 1 cross member if that's all you want to add.

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Regarding the level/ angle of the tank. If it was a small tank 2 or 3 foot long, I would say don't bother about it. However, a 6ft x 18in x 24in tank that is sloping more than 1-2mm is a concern. It could well be fine and not have any issues but if you move the tank in 10 years time and it ends up on a level stand then, the stress caused by being uneven now, could cause it to leak or crack in the future. If you want to risk it, that is fine but 1/4 inch (6mm) is a concern for a big tank.

You might find the foam under the tank has squashed unevenly and that is why the tank is no longer level.

 

[Archerfish]

Nice tank @Horsesarefun! The only tank I have cracked in many years of fishkeeping was doing exactly what you are doing. An unlevel foundation made from concrete blocks and boards. Not saying you will experience the same disaster I did, but in my case, it was simply horrid. Your tank needs a solid, level base. Foam underlayment is excellent. I use foam under all of my tanks even those on iron stands for slight variations and for insulation. In my opinion, I would 'take one for the fish team' and do a tear down. Get a sturdy, level stand and then cover it with your foam sheet. Regarding the center brace: was there once one and now it is missing? If so, again in my opinion, I would drain the tank and either find a replacement rim with center brace specifically made for that tank or find some way to safely brace it.​

 

[Horsesarefun]

Nice tank @Horsesarefun! The only tank I have cracked in many years of fishkeeping was doing exactly what you are doing. An unlevel foundation made from concrete blocks and boards. Not saying you will experience the same disaster I did, but in my case, it was simply horrid. Your tank needs a solid, level base. Foam underlayment is excellent. I use foam under all of my tanks even those on iron stands for slight variations and for insulation. In my opinion, I would 'take one for the fish team' and do a tear down. Get a sturdy, level stand and then cover it with your foam sheet. Regarding the center brace: was there once one and now it is missing? If so, again in my opinion, I would drain the tank and either find a replacement rim with center brace specifically made for that tank or find some way to safely brace it.​

I so appreciate the advice. It's actually the floor which is sloped, not the stand. And only a quarter inch if that. I have it in my basement bedroom. It had no center brace. Made that way. I think next time I have off for a week from work... I'll strip it down and get a car jack to lift it cause it is heavy as heck. then get shims under the boards to level it out.... ugh!!!! I was hoping I didn't have to. This tank is massive.

 

[MaloK]

You are right you tank is not warping it's just slanting...

Great occasion to put another tank at the end and create a little water fall that goes in... Every system has it's debut.

You can lower the water by 75% and use a couple blocks of wood and a crow bar to bring this level.

The hardest part is to shim your bricks for an even distribution once filled. Long tanks are preferred to be sagging a little at each end ( So the front and back glass are pulled instead instead of pushed ) . A tank sagging in the middle (creating a belly) is really not good.

 

[Horsesarefun]

You are right you tank is not warping it's just slanting...

Great occasion to put another tank at the end and create a little water fall that goes in... Every system has it's debut.

You can lower the water by 75% and use a couple blocks of wood and a crow bar to bring this level.

The hardest part is to shim your bricks for an even distribution once filled. Long tanks are preferred to be sagging a little at each end ( So the front and back glass are pulled instead instead of pushed ) . A tank sagging in the middle (creating a belly) is really not good.

i measured it all the way down, no bowing at all, and when I resealed the tank last year I used ASI tank sealant which has a high pressure load for up to 750 gallon tanks. Also let it cure for three weeks and sit with water in for two weeks before putting fish in. Still, I will have to empty it almost all the way. This is a OLD tank with thick glass. Very heavy. There is no way it ill lift with any water still in it with just a crow bar.