Water Conditioners
- Thread starter TonyC
- Start date
benzenering
New Member
I use Seachem Prime. It is effective for both chlorine and chloramine. I don't know if it is available in the UK though...maybe someone from there can chime in?
Yes, Seachem Prime is available in the UK, a few LFS do sock them but tends to be more expensive at LFS, cheaper to buy online.
I use Prime as its better value than most dechlorinators in the long run as the dosages are much less due to the strength and has proven to work well.
I use Prime as its better value than most dechlorinators in the long run as the dosages are much less due to the strength and has proven to work well.
I take a different approach to water conditioners. I have this thing about adding chemicals/substances that are not absolutely necessary. Any substance added to the water in an aquarium will end up inside the fish. So while this or that may be "safe," it is still entering the fish's bloodstream. This is why fish and their environment are more closely connected than any terrestrial animal.
So with that as my premise, I recommend selecting a water conditioner than does what you need, but no more. And this depends upon the source water (tap or well). And at this point, we are considering "normal" circumstances, not specifically cycling or some problem. For example, if you don't have ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in the source water, then there is no logical reason why you need a conditioner that detoxifies these. This is my beef with Prime. It messes around with processes that should be "natural" and is therefore unnecessary, but more to the point is that it contains chemicals that do this messing around. I also have an issue with the fact that Seachem cannot explain how Prime detoxifies nitrate fully, and that bothers me. Think of it as taking medicine without knowing the side effects.
Another thing to watch out for are substances that really serve no purpose, or may actually be detrimental. Some conditioners contain aloe vera; there is absolutely no evidence of any benefit from this, plus the fact that this sticky goo in the fish's gills may be long-term trouble. Another conditioner contains vallerian; I've no idea why anyone thinks the fish should be drugged to sleep.
Comparing cost is wise, but always include the amount needed. A conditioner that requires 1 ml to treat 1 gallon will need 10 ml for 10 gallons; compare that to those that use 1 ml for 10 gallons. The seemingly lower cost of the first is not much of a savings if any when you need to use 10 times as much. And here again, 10 times more chemical entering the water is less desirable.
I have used Kordons NovAqua (the basic, not the plus) in the past, and for many years. Presently I am using API's Tap Water Conditioner (the basic). Both handle chlorine and chloramine, and heavy metals (I don't need the heavy metals, but I have not found any conditioner that does not detoxify these, except for one or two that I won't use for other reasons like cloudiness). The API is probably the most concentrated product there is; 1 ml treats 20 gallons.
Byron.
So with that as my premise, I recommend selecting a water conditioner than does what you need, but no more. And this depends upon the source water (tap or well). And at this point, we are considering "normal" circumstances, not specifically cycling or some problem. For example, if you don't have ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in the source water, then there is no logical reason why you need a conditioner that detoxifies these. This is my beef with Prime. It messes around with processes that should be "natural" and is therefore unnecessary, but more to the point is that it contains chemicals that do this messing around. I also have an issue with the fact that Seachem cannot explain how Prime detoxifies nitrate fully, and that bothers me. Think of it as taking medicine without knowing the side effects.
Another thing to watch out for are substances that really serve no purpose, or may actually be detrimental. Some conditioners contain aloe vera; there is absolutely no evidence of any benefit from this, plus the fact that this sticky goo in the fish's gills may be long-term trouble. Another conditioner contains vallerian; I've no idea why anyone thinks the fish should be drugged to sleep.
Comparing cost is wise, but always include the amount needed. A conditioner that requires 1 ml to treat 1 gallon will need 10 ml for 10 gallons; compare that to those that use 1 ml for 10 gallons. The seemingly lower cost of the first is not much of a savings if any when you need to use 10 times as much. And here again, 10 times more chemical entering the water is less desirable.
I have used Kordons NovAqua (the basic, not the plus) in the past, and for many years. Presently I am using API's Tap Water Conditioner (the basic). Both handle chlorine and chloramine, and heavy metals (I don't need the heavy metals, but I have not found any conditioner that does not detoxify these, except for one or two that I won't use for other reasons like cloudiness). The API is probably the most concentrated product there is; 1 ml treats 20 gallons.
Byron.
I too use API Tap Water Conditioner and it is available in the UK though not many shops stock it. You can get it on-line. It is easy to use for buckets as it takes 1 drop per gallon/3.76 litres for chlorine, though when I got my last bottle I found the larger sizes don't have a lid with a dropper any more; only the smallest size had that.
Like Byron, I don't like adding unnecessary chemicals to my tanks.
Like Byron, I don't like adding unnecessary chemicals to my tanks.
I use Easy Life and Black water extract as well as Crushed up Indian almond leaf.
My LFS recommended Easy Life, He swears by it and uses it in all his tanks. I use the Black water extract because, I like a tannin tank look, I add some crushed up and whole Indian almond leaf to the tank because my shrimp or what's left of them after my betta has had her fill, Eat the decomposing leaves. The leaves also make great hiding spots for my Kuhil Loaches. Sometimes I add a whole IAL and my betta will sit under it for hours.
I always pre heat ( 26 deg C ) and pre treat the water before adding it to the tank, 30 litres of water, 10 millilitres of Easy Life, 60 millilitres Black Water Extract, Add power head and Heater and wait till its 26 deg Celsius.
Easy-Life fluid filter medium — English
Black Water Extract Water Conditioner 2 Litre - The Tech Den
50 Small IAL Indian Almond Leaves - The Tech Den
My LFS recommended Easy Life, He swears by it and uses it in all his tanks. I use the Black water extract because, I like a tannin tank look, I add some crushed up and whole Indian almond leaf to the tank because my shrimp or what's left of them after my betta has had her fill, Eat the decomposing leaves. The leaves also make great hiding spots for my Kuhil Loaches. Sometimes I add a whole IAL and my betta will sit under it for hours.
I always pre heat ( 26 deg C ) and pre treat the water before adding it to the tank, 30 litres of water, 10 millilitres of Easy Life, 60 millilitres Black Water Extract, Add power head and Heater and wait till its 26 deg Celsius.
Easy-Life fluid filter medium — English
Black Water Extract Water Conditioner 2 Litre - The Tech Den
50 Small IAL Indian Almond Leaves - The Tech Den
I tI have tested my tap water a number of times and chlorine was never detected. Some water treatment plants now use ozone and UV to stabilize tap water. So using a water conditioner for chlorine may not be necessary. Ozone typically degrades to normal oxygen by the time it gets to you home.
The only problem I had with my tap water was that it is too hard. To that end I installed a RO system. RO systems remove heavy metals, chlorine, and many other chemicals and doesn't add anything to the water. RO water is very soft and in fact may not have enough micro nutrient to allow plants to grow. It is also has almost no calcium and magnesium which makes it unsuitable for shrimp. I supplement my RO water with micro nutrients and add additional calcium and magnesium carbonate.
The only problem I had with my tap water was that it is too hard. To that end I installed a RO system. RO systems remove heavy metals, chlorine, and many other chemicals and doesn't add anything to the water. RO water is very soft and in fact may not have enough micro nutrient to allow plants to grow. It is also has almost no calcium and magnesium which makes it unsuitable for shrimp. I supplement my RO water with micro nutrients and add additional calcium and magnesium carbonate.
NeonTetra97
Fish Fanatic
Like a few others I also use Prime and love it! Can be a bit tricky to use because the dosages are so small, so if you buy a syringe to measure it out it makes water changes easy! Happy fish keeping 
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