Water changes .

[Magnum Man]

draining and filling at the same time...1/3 water changes, on 10 tanks this morning, in 15 minutes.... BTW... one was a 10 gallon, all the others were 45 & 55 gallon tanks... so a goodly amount of water was exchanged..

 

[GaryE]

This could be an event at the aquarist Olympics.

Looks good, but I am not jealous. No sir.

 

[gwand]

draining and filling at the same time...1/3 water changes, on 10 tanks this morning, in 15 minutes....View attachment 364809

So are you able to drain from multiple tanks simultaneously using a single pump?

 

[Magnum Man]

I just do one at a time, drain one, move the suction line, & start the pump out pump, then begin filling the 1st... they are both the same pump size and style, so out & back in takes about the same time...

 

[Abbeysdad2]

I need some help assuaging my guilt. Either that or need to be guilted into action. Today I decided to not change the water on my 75 gallon. It would be the mid week change of 2 - normally I do 30 gallons each time. I used to do this because I had a hard time with the nitrates. I stopped adding nitrate as fertilizer (I use powdered PK & KS and micros on the next day- I do it 2 times a week- sort of a partial EI method), I have house plants that are growing well and I cut down on the feeding ...some...

I checked my nitrates and they are at 20ppm. I think that's low enough to wait until Saturday to change the water.

Here's the tank:
View attachment 364785

Just relax. You could do a 50% water change every day and it would be great...excessive, but great. So what about 50% every other day, or twice a week, or???
So what's sufficient? No one really knows and it varies widely based on water quality and whether or not it's a planted tank. I used to have high nitrates in my well water, most likely due to the 95 acre farmers field across the road that I believe got ample amounts of fertilizer. I invented a de-nitrate filter and over time processed hundreds of gallons of water for water changes. In the process, I learned that I could back off on water change frequency, especially with a heavily planted tank as the plants filtered the water.
So... I'd suggest you experiment by extending water change frequencies while monitoring nitrates and fish actions and health. I'd bet you'd be fine doing water changes once every two weeks, maybe even three.
𝙄 𝙠𝙣𝙤𝙬, 𝙞𝙩 𝙨𝙤𝙪𝙣𝙙𝙨 𝙡𝙞𝙠𝙚 𝙗𝙡𝙖𝙨𝙥𝙝𝙚𝙢𝙮 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙖 𝙘𝙖𝙡𝙡 𝙤𝙪𝙩 𝙛𝙤𝙧 𝙩𝙧𝙤𝙡𝙡𝙨. 𝘽𝙪𝙩 𝙬𝙖𝙩𝙚𝙧 𝙘𝙝𝙖𝙣𝙜𝙚 𝙫𝙤𝙡𝙪𝙢𝙚 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙛𝙧𝙚𝙦𝙪𝙚𝙣𝙘𝙮 𝙞𝙨 𝙣𝙤𝙩 𝙬𝙝𝙖𝙩 𝙢𝙖𝙣𝙮 𝙩𝙝𝙞𝙣𝙠.

 

[Oldspartan]

This begs a question ---

We are trying to slowly transition from fake to real plants. The real guys seem stunted,, although I may be expecting too much to fast. The only plant I consider to be actually thriving is hornwort.

I am wondering if the water change and gravel vac schedule is too aggressive. Water is changed every 5 days, (a recent change from 4 days). First and second days of the cycle involves about 35% with a light surface vac of the gravel. The third one of the cycles involves removing anything large enough to get in the way, (only non living stuff), 40% or more water removal and a deep vacuum right down to the bottom. Random water tests always show 0 Amm and Nitrite and Nitrate is usually about 5, sometimes 10 in the more heavily stocked tanks. It has not exceeded 10 in any tank for a very long time. I am using Flouish after the deep clean.

Am I my own worst enemy?

 

[seangee]

What plants do you have. I stick with the easy stuff
This pic was taken on 9 March when I ripped most of the plants out of the tank

Here is the same tank this morning, less than a month later. Excuse the green tinge and darkness - my extended sunrise phase has only just started.

The hygrophila (h.siamensis 53b) in the left front side was trimmed to 50% of its height last weekend and has also been thinned a couple of times. The ambulia (limnophila sessiliflora) on the left and rear wall has been untouched and will burst through the surface today.
In that time I have done 75% weekly water changes and added TNC lite (equavalent to flourish comprehensive). No gravel vacs. Since I use RO water my nitrates are always <5 and no ammonia or nitrite. dGh =2 and dKh =1. pH unknown but I suspect in the range 6.5 - 7. Lighting is fairly low, when it gets to full sun the Fluval Aquasky is at 45% for RGB/W.
I've just noticed that the frogbit has spread enough to start creating a distinct dark side - which was always my plan.

 

[Oldspartan]

Water sprite, hornwort, ludwigia repens. and red root.

 

[GaryE]

If we're going to discuss water change systems and frequency, we should always state what our source water is like. It's also supremely important to say what our fish are. Otherwise, we risk making general statements as if they apply to all situations, and leading newer aquarists into problems.

I realize I've been arguing for once a week water changes for a long time, but my last two houses have had poorly buffered soft water. If I were to go with changes every 3 weeks, the dwarf Cichlids and blackwater tetras I have would die. Don't ask me how I learned this.

My killies, Corys, Anabantoids, and most of my tetras would be able to handle every 3 weeks, if I had a reason to slack. However, past experience says that breeding would slow down.

I still daydream about plumbing every tank with a drain system, to remove a percentage of the water at a twist of a tap, and to refill with another tap. A continuous system would also be good, though the issue of winter water makes me cautious about automation, as I have seen that go wrong. I doubt I'll ever take apart the fishroom to do that. New tanks would cost too much!

I'll keep advocating for weekly changes, as they can do no harm. I'd be more cautious with delayed water changes, because of the points above. It depends on your source water, your set up, your goals, and your fish.

I also find discussing with aquarists from rural farming areas can be like interplanetary talk. There are so many places in the midwest of the USA where the wellwater is polluted by agriculture, and people there deal with a whole other set of circumstances compared to my very clean tapwater. It's even illegal to take a boat or go fishing on the large lakes that we drink here.

If your tap gives you the kind of water I change out because I see it as bad for my fish after a week, then we're going to have miscommunication. I've spoken with many hobbyists whose fresh tap is filthier than my aquarium wastewater.

 

[Magnum Man]

rather than starting a new thread, this thread has evolved enough, this fits...

water changes, "that stuff", critical mass, and finding that balance...

I don't have many ( reads any ) actual rooted aquatic plants mine are all ryzome plants, which do put roots out, but can't be burried... I started with Java fern, and now have 4-5 varieties of anubias, as well, and tons of terrestrial plants growing out of my tanks...

I'm now at what most would consider an acceptable water change rate, of 1/3 of volume twice a week... all of my tanks are heavily filtered with hob filters... I have 2 sand bottom tanks, the others have a wide variety of substrates, and because of the curmudgeon in me, 2 of my tanks still have under gravel filtration, as well as the hob's... those tanks seem to be the most stable, maybe because of the under gravel filtration, maybe just because of actual, extra filtration???

I will be vacuuming the gravel once a month or so, with my pump out pump, once I fit the pieces, and have some time...

it almost seems, that having some of "that stuff" in the tank, is part of what makes the tank mature and stable, and the plants seem to dig it...

but then there is "old tank syndrome" which I suspect is likely caused by a critical mass of "that stuff" or by tank maintenance exposing "that stuff"... and I know under gravel filters do collect "that stuff" under the filter plate... just trying to find a balance between what seems to be a good level, and critical mass... my tanks being heavily stocked, it seems to make sense that "that stuff" can or will accumulate faster

substrate should make a difference... I don't personally feel anaerobic zones are good, so my sand tanks only have around an inch of substrate... the old under gravel filter rule was 2-3 inches of depth, however my 2 tanks that retained the ug filter plates have approximately 1.5 to 2 inches of substrate...

so, I'm not sure our OC tendencies to remove every bit of "that stuff", is actually good for the tank, or the plants, and is it better to add chemicals that are not good for the fish, than leave some of "that stuff" in the tank???

 

[gwand]

There is a 1000 acre farm exactly one mile from my house. My next door neighbor is a horse farm. They are probably the reason that my well water has a constant nitrate level of 20 ppm. So I plumbed into one sink a resin filter that binds nitrate. The problem now is that in order for the resin to bind nitrate effectively my flow rate cannot be higher than 1 gallon every 4 minutes. I spend considerable time performing weekly water changes.

 

[Magnum Man]

our farm, has 180 acres of crop land around our well and 1000's of acres of crop land around that... the RO filter is my friend...

 

[seangee]

There is a 1000 acre farm exactly one mile from my house. My next door neighbor is a horse farm. They are probably the reason that my well water has a constant nitrate level of 20 ppm. So I plumbed into one sink a resin filter that binds nitrate. The problem now is that in order for the resin to bind nitrate effectively my flow rate cannot be higher than 1 gallon every 4 minutes. I spend considerable time performing weekly water changes.

When I started using RO I had a 50gpd unit and 4 tanks. I bought a load of plastic jerry cans and refill for next week immediately after the W/C. Today I have a 400gpd unit and only 2 tanks but have stuck to the same system. Now I have a 4x25l and 4x10l cans. I fill these to the brim so its more than 140l that I have on hand at any one time. This means I can do a 100% change on the larger tank if needed. So changes go quickly and as soon as the first can is empty I start refilling. The flow rate for RO is constant, only needing small adjustments for seasonal temp changes or clogged filters - so I just set a timer and get on with whatever else I am doing. If I need to go out that's fine because I have a whole week.
May not be practical if you have large volumes or lots of tanks but works well for me.

Edit: Bonus is I can adjust the temp easily - either stand the cans in a tub of hot water in winter or if I am in a hurry use RO water and a kettle.

 

[Magnum Man]

my RO is a 300 gpd unit, and it was a lot of work, but I got a 100 gallon poly tank through the house, down the basement stairs, and into my tank work area, and under those basement stairs, I just turn my RO on, when I need it, I pretty much keep the tank full, so it can warm up... running well water into the RO, the output is pretty cold...

 

[Abbeysdad2]

First let me say that I'm no expert and don't play one on TV or websites! But I have been in, and out (mostly in) of the hobby for about 50 of my 70 years. So no expert, but learned a thing or two.

𝘞𝘦 𝘢𝘳𝘦 𝘵𝘳𝘺𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘵𝘰 𝘴𝘭𝘰𝘸𝘭𝘺 𝘵𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘴𝘪𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯 𝘧𝘳𝘰𝘮 𝘧𝘢𝘬𝘦 𝘵𝘰 𝘳𝘦𝘢𝘭 𝘱𝘭𝘢𝘯𝘵𝘴. 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘳𝘦𝘢𝘭 𝘨𝘶𝘺𝘴 𝘴𝘦𝘦𝘮 𝘴𝘵𝘶𝘯𝘵𝘦𝘥,, 𝘢𝘭𝘵𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘨𝘩 𝘪 𝘮𝘢𝘺 𝘣𝘦 𝘦𝘹𝘱𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘵𝘰𝘰 𝘮𝘶𝘤𝘩 𝘵𝘰 𝘧𝘢𝘴𝘵. 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘰𝘯𝘭𝘺 𝘱𝘭𝘢𝘯𝘵 𝘪 𝘤𝘰𝘯𝘴𝘪𝘥𝘦𝘳 𝘵𝘰 𝘣𝘦 𝘢𝘤𝘵𝘶𝘢𝘭𝘭𝘺 𝘵𝘩𝘳𝘪𝘷𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘪𝘴 𝘩𝘰𝘳𝘯𝘸𝘰𝘳𝘵.
This can be a challenge and requires a shift in mindset. Although plants can uptake nutrients (ferts) in the water, rooted plants uptake nutrients from their roots so a sterile substrate can slow growth. I would suggest stopping gravel vacuuming.

𝘐𝘧 𝘸𝘦'𝘳𝘦 𝘨𝘰𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘵𝘰 𝘥𝘪𝘴𝘤𝘶𝘴𝘴 𝘸𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘳 𝘤𝘩𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦 𝘴𝘺𝘴𝘵𝘦𝘮𝘴 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘧𝘳𝘦𝘲𝘶𝘦𝘯𝘤𝘺, 𝘸𝘦 𝘴𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘭𝘥 𝘢𝘭𝘸𝘢𝘺𝘴 𝘴𝘵𝘢𝘵𝘦 𝘸𝘩𝘢𝘵 𝘰𝘶𝘳 𝘴𝘰𝘶𝘳𝘤𝘦 𝘸𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘳 𝘪𝘴 𝘭𝘪𝘬𝘦. 𝘐𝘵'𝘴 𝘢𝘭𝘴𝘰 𝘴𝘶𝘱𝘳𝘦𝘮𝘦𝘭𝘺 𝘪𝘮𝘱𝘰𝘳𝘵𝘢𝘯𝘵 𝘵𝘰 𝘴𝘢𝘺 𝘸𝘩𝘢𝘵 𝘰𝘶𝘳 𝘧𝘪𝘴𝘩 𝘢𝘳𝘦. 𝘖𝘵𝘩𝘦𝘳𝘸𝘪𝘴𝘦, 𝘸𝘦 𝘳𝘪𝘴𝘬 𝘮𝘢𝘬𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘨𝘦𝘯𝘦𝘳𝘢𝘭 𝘴𝘵𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘮𝘦𝘯𝘵𝘴 𝘢𝘴 𝘪𝘧 𝘵𝘩𝘦𝘺 𝘢𝘱𝘱𝘭𝘺 𝘵𝘰 𝘢𝘭𝘭 𝘴𝘪𝘵𝘶𝘢𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘴, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘭𝘦𝘢𝘥𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘯𝘦𝘸𝘦𝘳 𝘢𝘲𝘶𝘢𝘳𝘪𝘴𝘵𝘴 𝘪𝘯𝘵𝘰 𝘱𝘳𝘰𝘣𝘭𝘦𝘮𝘴.
True to a point, although some basic rules hold true. Aquariums are a closed system where fish food and fish waste pollutes the 'fresh' water. Periodic partial water changes along with filter maintenance and sometimes gravel vacuuming attempt to maintain sufficient water quality. There's quite a difference in the artificial vs. planted tank .... and then there's over stocking and over feeding. So many variables.

𝘐 𝘢𝘭𝘴𝘰 𝘧𝘪𝘯𝘥 𝘥𝘪𝘴𝘤𝘶𝘴𝘴𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘸𝘪𝘵𝘩 𝘢𝘲𝘶𝘢𝘳𝘪𝘴𝘵𝘴 𝘧𝘳𝘰𝘮 𝘳𝘶𝘳𝘢𝘭 𝘧𝘢𝘳𝘮𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘢𝘳𝘦𝘢𝘴 𝘤𝘢𝘯 𝘣𝘦 𝘭𝘪𝘬𝘦 𝘪𝘯𝘵𝘦𝘳𝘱𝘭𝘢𝘯𝘦𝘵𝘢𝘳𝘺 𝘵𝘢𝘭𝘬. 𝘛𝘩𝘦𝘳𝘦 𝘢𝘳𝘦 𝘴𝘰 𝘮𝘢𝘯𝘺 𝘱𝘭𝘢𝘤𝘦𝘴 𝘪𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘮𝘪𝘥𝘸𝘦𝘴𝘵 𝘰𝘧 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘶𝘴𝘢 𝘸𝘩𝘦𝘳𝘦 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘸𝘦𝘭𝘭𝘸𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘳 𝘪𝘴 𝘱𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘶𝘵𝘦𝘥 𝘣𝘺 𝘢𝘨𝘳𝘪𝘤𝘶𝘭𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘦, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘱𝘦𝘰𝘱𝘭𝘦 𝘵𝘩𝘦𝘳𝘦 𝘥𝘦𝘢𝘭 𝘸𝘪𝘵𝘩 𝘢 𝘸𝘩𝘰𝘭𝘦 𝘰𝘵𝘩𝘦𝘳 𝘴𝘦𝘵 𝘰𝘧 𝘤𝘪𝘳𝘤𝘶𝘮𝘴𝘵𝘢𝘯𝘤𝘦𝘴 𝘤𝘰𝘮𝘱𝘢𝘳𝘦𝘥 𝘵𝘰 𝘮𝘺 𝘷𝘦𝘳𝘺 𝘤𝘭𝘦𝘢𝘯 𝘵𝘢𝘱𝘸𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘳. 𝘐𝘵'𝘴 𝘦𝘷𝘦𝘯 𝘪𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘨𝘢𝘭 𝘵𝘰 𝘵𝘢𝘬𝘦 𝘢 𝘣𝘰𝘢𝘵 𝘰𝘳 𝘨𝘰 𝘧𝘪𝘴𝘩𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘰𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘭𝘢𝘳𝘨𝘦 𝘭𝘢𝘬𝘦𝘴 𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘵 𝘸𝘦 𝘥𝘳𝘪𝘯𝘬 𝘩𝘦𝘳𝘦.
I'm unsure of my 'planet' but I can say that the quality of my well water that was high in nitrates improved when the land across the road (95 acres) was leased to a different farmer. The previous farmer used petrol-chemical ferts while the current one uses cow manure...oh the air is so 'sweet' when the stuff hits the fan.
Then again, I don't have chlorine or fluoride in my water. But if you drink your water, how bad can it be? Now I wouldn't drink pond water, but fish seem to do okay in it! I think we might say that nearly any tap water is likely or at least usually better than old aquarium water.

As I mentioned in another post, I think plants can make all the difference. I'll attach a photo of my 60g tank in the living room. I do very few routine periodic water changes for this tank.
(admittedly, some pruning is in order). Living plants help filter the water. I feed fish modestly and I do not use ferts. I only clean the filter when exit flow is significantly reduced. Call me a crazy old man, but I believe that a natural balance is achieved.