Water Changes With Real Plants

The December FOTM Contest Poll is open!
FishForums.net Fish of the Month
🏆 Click to vote! 🏆

The way I maintain my tanks means I am in total control of what happens. I can use any substrate, I control the plant nutrients, I control the water quality and I don't need to over feed the fish. Its very simple and straight forward.

A walstad tank needs careful planning and consideration and is not as easy to set up as you are making out. It takes time for the tank to mature and balance out. Maintaining an established and matured walstad sure is easy but how easy is it and how long does it take to get to that stage? Do you think that everyone can achieve this? I know that many many people try and fail at walstad tanks. It's all a bit hit and miss and there is no real control over any peramiter in the tank. You can just hope that the fish waste is enough for your plants,
You can wonder if there are enough trace elements in the water and what about the water quality can you be sure its ok for the fish?

The way i do it means that anyone can have a sucessful healthy planted tank without any hassle or messing about and they are in total control of the tank. anyone even a complete beginner can have a lovely planted tank this way. you dont need to wait for it to mature you just crack on with it and watch your plants grow!
 
The way I maintain my tanks means I am in total control of what happens. I can use any substrate, I control the plant nutrients, I control the water quality and I don't need to over feed the fish. Its very simple and straight forward.
 
 I am in control of what happens too, just not total control unfortunately but I doubt it you have total control either. You can also use almost any substrate in this type of tank too, but as a cap to the soil.
I don't need to control any nutritients or co2, so less work for me there, neither do I have to spend money or time on them.  And there's no reason why the water quality would be any worse than yours or anybody elses. I don't overfeed my fish either, but I can afford to overfeed without consequences. And I can go on holidays without worrying about the slightest thing. So yes, even simpler.
 
 
 
It takes time for the tank to mature and balance out. Maintaining an established and matured walstad sure is easy but how easy is it and how long does it take to get to that stage?
 
 
Get to what stage? The second tank above is not even 3 weeks old and I've trimmed some of the plants twice already. From this:
 
fphw.jpg

 
To this:
 
6j3o.jpg

 
 
 
Do you think that everyone can achieve this?
 
 
Just because you are accustomed to your method does not mean it's any easier than a Walstad type of tank. When starting a planted tank for the first time no one is immune to mistakes.  For example the OP thinks that 1.5W of light per gallon is low tech and depending on the type of light tubes used that could be in the medium high tech range already and a recipe for disaster.
Basics should be known regardless of method. Makes it easier as a prevention method.
But yes, Walstad type of tank is totally easy to setup. It's not a rule, it's a very good guide with certain things more important than others, or at least can be tweaked to one's preferences, and even improve it.
 
 I know that many many people try and fail at walstad tanks. It's all a bit hit and miss and there is no real control over any peramiter in the tank. You can just hope that the fish waste is enough for your plants
 
 
Without pointing out a particular case I can't tell you why some people failed. I am certain a lot more people failed at keeping plants via other methods too. And in regards to controlling the tank, as long as you understand that the biggest limitation is CO2 and CO2 demand depends on the amount of light given to the tank, then you'll get it right, especially if you understand that co2 may need to mechanically be distributed to the plants via some extra flow if the tank is large enough.  Fertilzers will hardly be a problem in a Walstad tank, but even if they are, then one can combine methods and just dose minimal amounts if they wish, though I haven't done it.
 
You can wonder if there are enough trace elements in the water and what about the water quality can you be sure its ok for the fish?
 
 
Do you refer to the lack of water changes these tanks are often associated with ? You know, in a tank full of healthy growing plants, the water quality can easily be better than that from your tap water. That's nothing to do with the method of keeping plants. Despite everything, one can do water changes in a Walstad tank too without consequences to the "method" or plants or fish. I've done it. And why do you think the water quality in your type of tanks is any better? That applies to any method. CO2 is toxic to fish and especially to inverts, yet people inject CO2 in high tech tanks.
 
 
You can just hope that the fish waste is enough for your plants
 
 
In practice there's nothing to worry about and it's enough no matter how complicated it sounds to you, but as I said no one is stopping anyone from adding some ferts once in a blue moon if they think the plants need it. 
 
 
The way i do it means that anyone can have a sucessful healthy planted tank without any hassle or messing about
 
 
There's no hassle or messing with a Walstad tank, less messing or worryng than your own tanks for sure.  I am totally not sure why you think it's so difficult. For a person like you that has already kept a planted tank, it should be a breeze and a big relief compared to your own methods.  It seems the concept of it looks too complicated to you and you think it's full of flaws, but in reality it works wonderfully.
 
I sometimes like to quote some famous people and Albert Einstein said that: "Condemnation without investigation is the height of ignorance"
 
Just try it for youself, then make up your mind. Otherwise you'd be fooling yourself and others.
 
 
Thank you snazy, you explained everything better that I could have.
 
You guys are totally missing the point I'm making here. I come on this forum to try and help less experienced people than myself achieve a successful planted tank and the advice I give is the simplest most straight forward way to achieve that and it works. It gets people on the ladder then they are happy. They dont have a tank full of dying algae ridden plants. From there they can then decide which path they want to pursue.
It really is the simplest way to do it. If you get a thread by someone with algae ridden dying plants what advice do you give them.
Do you tell them to add ferts do waterchanges and keep the tank clean or do you tell them to rip everything out and start again usung the walstad method? Really come on and think about it.
 
Didn't realise I would start such a debate!
 
all replies are really appreciated but I am an extreme novice and I know I will make a lot of mistakes. The more I research about plants the more I want to learn,
I assumed my lights were low tech due to articles I have read online with 1.5 watt per gallon being quite low (hope I worked it out right 2x 40 watt bulbs and 55uk gallon tank)
 
Also my lights have been running about 16months so don't know if that will make them less "bright" (have 10000 hr life span according to hagen)
 
to start with I will definately keep up my water changes (quite enjoy them) and as I progress and get more experianced may go another route.
 
Again thanks
 
mitch70, what are your light tubes exactly, T8s, T5s or T5 HO? With T5s what you have maybe enough/should be enough for a high tech tank so if you ever go that way, don't rush into purchasing new lights as a first thing because you probably don't need to. Concentrate on CO2, flow and nutritients instead. Those articles you've red refer to old T12 and T8s and others that aren't as powerful. According to Takashi Amano for example one doesn't need such high light levels at all, not as previously thought, all myths debunked.  And he's one of the masters in planted tanks currently. The PAR readings of his tanks are quite low. Google or find on youtube what he's done.
 
Do you tell them to add ferts do waterchanges and keep the tank clean or do you tell them to rip everything out and start again usung the walstad method?
 
 
Yes, levahe, that's correct. The only reason I commented about the Walstad method was because you were giving wrong information about it.  You never know, the OP may like to have a look into it. Surely if I was aware about it when I first tried keeping plants my life would have been a lot easier.
 
snazy said:
mitch70, what are your light tubes exactly, T8s, T5s or T5 HO? With T5s what you have maybe enough/should be enough for a high tech tank so if you ever go that way, don't rush into purchasing new lights as a first thing because you probably don't need to. Concentrate on CO2, flow and nutritients instead. Those articles you've red refer to old T12 and T8s and others that aren't as powerful. According to Takashi Amano for example one doesn't need such high light levels at all, not as previously thought, all myths debunked.  And he's one of the masters in planted tanks currently. The PAR readings of his tanks are quite low. Google or find on youtube what he's done.
 

Do you tell them to add ferts do waterchanges and keep the tank clean or do you tell them to rip everything out and start again usung the walstad method?
 
Yes, levahe, that's correct. The only reason I commented about the Walstad method was because you were giving wrong information about it.  You never know, the OP may like to have a look into it. Surely if I was aware about it when I first tried keeping plants my life would have been a lot easier.
There was no reason for anyone to bring up walstad in this thread, zante jumped in the thread to tell me I'm wrong and started telling me how things work in a walstad tank. I have spent a lot of time reading about walstad and others methods of dirt tanks. Things don't work the same way in a regular planted tank and didn't apply to any part of the thread. Some walstad people also need to realise that there is other ways of doing things. The info I was giving isn't wrong, I stand by what I said 100%. Like I said in the beginning of the thread if the op had asked about a walstad type of tank I would have given different answers.
 
My lights are 2 x t8 - 42" - 1 x power glo tube - 40w and 1 x aqua glo tube - I understand t8's are not as powerful as t8's and that with the watt per gallon rule lead me to believe I had low level lighting
 
I never talked about walstad tanks, I only said that D. Walstad advises not to syphon gravel because muck and mulm in the gravel (note GRAVEL) is very beneficial for plants.
 
Never cleaned gravel in any planted tank and really would not recommend anything more then a surface cleaning.

I've also found walstead far easier then a standard gravel tank far as tank stability, algae control, growth, and even fish health.
 
Also never touch the gravel in my planted tanks. They do get regular water changes though, because i add fertz.
 
Zante said:
I never talked about walstad tanks, I only said that D. Walstad advises not to syphon gravel because muck and mulm in the gravel (note GRAVEL) is very beneficial for plants.
 
snazy said:
mitch70, what are your light tubes exactly, T8s, T5s or T5 HO? With T5s what you have maybe enough/should be enough for a high tech tank so if you ever go that way, don't rush into purchasing new lights as a first thing because you probably don't need to. Concentrate on CO2, flow and nutritients instead. Those articles you've red refer to old T12 and T8s and others that aren't as powerful. According to Takashi Amano for example one doesn't need such high light levels at all, not as previously thought, all myths debunked.  And he's one of the masters in planted tanks currently. The PAR readings of his tanks are quite low. Google or find on youtube what he's done.
 
Do you tell them to add ferts do waterchanges and keep the tank clean or do you tell them to rip everything out and start again usung the walstad method?
 
 
Yes, levahe, that's correct. The only reason I commented about the Walstad method was because you were giving wrong information about it.  You never know, the OP may like to have a look into it. Surely if I was aware about it when I first tried keeping plants my life would have been a lot easier.
 
what a brilliant read and debate. (sorry to Mitch posting on your thread)
 
I'm just about to start planting in my 60L tank and read about the Walstad method.. My it scared me! I just couldn't put my finger on it and I found so much contradiction (prob helped if I bought the actual book!!)
 
However, I am going to dose liquid carbon and ferts Macro and Micro, simply because I feel (from the vast reading) it is the more generic way to have a planted tank and I've worked out now how im going to do it. I do love the results you have snazzy and it turned my head.. Your tanks are fantastic!! One day I may have the bravery to try it out!!
 
Mitch, I have been told to not vacuum the substrate (maybe hover lightly over it now and again) and by all accounts, regular weekly water changes are required.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top