UV light

[MaloK]

I need a submersible UV light for a 17 Gallons container... I tried one off and it burned in a few hours...

Any brand known to be reliable you might know ?

 

[jaylach]

Why would you want a UV light? If you are talking about something like a black light to bring out colors they are pretty bad for fish.

 

[MaloK]

No of course... No fish involved in this scenario...

A UV sterilizer light to install in my RO/DI water holding tank to prevent bacteria buildup longer.

RO units are prone to develop bacteria with time these are no problems with common uses for this kind of water normally. Still in aquarium uses, I personally don't want too much of them.

None the less, it creates a slimy ring around the corner of the tank a lot faster than when I was holding the water with chloramine inside and treating at use time. With UV sterilization it will make maintenance a lot more scarce.

I found another one that looks worthy of a good job... There's multiple reviews of it "killing all the fish in the tank"... I'm pretty sure it works well.

And hope at the same time that these posts are pure trolling. Who would put an UVC band light directly in his aquarium ?!?

 

[jaylach]

No of course... No fish involved in this scenario...

A UV sterilizer light to install in my RO/DI water holding tank to prevent bacteria buildup longer.

RO units are prone to develop bacteria with time these are no problems with common uses for this kind of water normally. Still in aquarium uses, I personally don't want too much of them.

None the less, it creates a slimy ring around the corner of the tank a lot faster than when I was holding the water with chloramine inside and treating at use time. With UV sterilization it will make maintenance a lot more scarce.

I found another one that looks worthy of a good job... There's multiple reviews of it "killing all the fish in the tank"... I'm pretty sure it works well.

And hope at the same time that these posts are pure trolling. Who would put an UVC band light directly in his aquarium ?!?

OK, I understand now. I thought that you were talking about a UV light for a populated tank I can't really offer any help as I've never used UV for sterilization but know they work. In fact Dan's Fish uses a pretty massive UV system to sterilize incoming water.

Good luck on your quest and I hope that others can help with recommendations. I could search and recommend by reviews but don't like to recommend things I've never used. I'm sure that you can understand my viewpoint.

 

[Fishfunn]

I need a submersible UV light for a 17 Gallons container... I tried one off and it burned in a few hours...

Any brand known to be reliable you might know ?

The green killing machine brand works very well and is very reliable. I use them too.

Amazon.com

here is another one that clips to the back of the aquarium HOB:

Amazon.com

 

[MaloK]

Thanks, I would rather not have another pump running for this job. I'm looking for something deadlier... And in plain view, for this task. I think I found something.

If this lasts...

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Lamp Submersible

It would be great.

 

[Fishfunn]

Thanks, I would rather not have another pump running for this job. I'm looking for something deadlier... And in plain view, for this task. I think I found something.

If this lasts...

Aquarium UV Sterilizer Lamp Submersible

It would be great.

I actually use this model, and it sits at the bottom of my RO/DI storage tank. I leave it running all the time. https://www.amazon.com/AA-GKM9W-Internal-Aquariums-Black/dp/B099KRCQPN

I had this UV light for years so it was readily available to use.

Since I stopped mixing tap water in my RO/DI holding tank, I had no slime issues in the tank. When I add RO/DI water to my aquariums, I first dump tap water into the tanks, then I pump the RO/DI water directly afterward. Before I add the tap water to the tanks, I dump in the amount of Prime for the total volume of the tank's size.

For grins, I leave the UV sterilizer running 24/7 since the RO water is in the garage and might sit full for over a week before use.

 

[MaloK]

Since I stopped mixing tap water in my RO/DI holding tank, I had no slime issues in the tank.

Mmmmm... Maybe because I only rinsed and scrubbed the tank without any real sanitizing, before switching.

The new tank has some porosity in it's composition and could drag lots of stuff over easily compared to the current one.

But still I gave a good hard brush clean and a good rinse to the test bucket (That is actually my current holding tank for years to be soon replaced) and it's soooo slimy now... Yuckkkkk !!!

Next time I'll bleach everything to give it a chance... But I don't like that. And I hope the UV sterilizer will help in that problem.

For grins, I leave the UV sterilizer running 24/7 since the RO water is in the garage and might sit full for over a week before use.

While you're waiting for water to cool down...

My water supply is nearly almost all the time at the perfect temp... because I still have to heat it three quarters the time of the year... Loll.

 

[Fishfunn]

While you're waiting for water to cool down...

My water supply is nearly almost all the time at the perfect temp... because I still have to heat it three quarters the time of the year... Loll.

Water changes being a little warmer hasn't caused a problem for my fish. When it is colder than the tank water, then the fish get a chill, and their immune system drops. I liken that to us: we only get a cold when we walk out into colder temperatures and get a chill.

I use bleach all the time to disinfect my equipment. I rinse stuff off very well and never have any issues. Anytime I really worry about bleach in the water, I will add a de-chlorinator for safety.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I have been making RO/DI water for a dozen years. My first unit was a 75 GPD and I did replace the carbon and RO once. Earlier this year I replaced my 3 stage unit with a 4 stage adding a sediment filter module. The units are both portable, garden hose size connetion on the intake and a 75 gpd RO membrane. I have two buildings with fish and I have to batch and store the RO/DI in one but use it in the other. So I have done things in the following way since day one.

1. I batch from my tap which is well water so i do not need to consider dechlor.
2. The water goes into one of my Rubbermaid 20 gallon garbage can.
3. I use a pump to fill 23 1 gal. jugs w/screw caps, 3 x 5 gal cans with lids from Home Depot, a 6 gal. water jug and a 2.5 gal. gas can dedicated for water.

I use between 11 and 12 gallons weekly for water changes. I carry them in the 1 gal. jugs which i refill from the bigger cans. I get no build up of anything any where including the 1 gal jugs which can have a small amount of water in the bottom for 2 weeks or a bit longer. The reason my container get no "mung" is simple- they all have lids. There is no food for anything in the close to pure water.

I regularly batch 20+ gals of changing water which uses 11+ gals of RO/DI and 9 of my tap which is 7.0 and usually 83 ppm TDS. The tank is supposed to be in the pH 6.0 range (+/- .3) and TDS in the 60 ppm range (+/- 5 ppm). The tap water is hot enough to bring the final temp. to 85 -87F. This drops some before going into the tank which runs at about 85.

My biggest problem when I have to refill all of the containers is forgetting to check the filling status of the 20 gal. can and having it overflow. In the past 12 years I have only done this about 5 or 6 times and I batch water about 15 times/year. In the drier months I would also make if for my brother to use in his humidifiers so I had to make it more often for a few months. He stored his in 1 gal. jugs with lids.

 

[MaloK]

At the moment my setup is all gravity driven, so I don't need pumps, it's slower and I like it like that. Knowing myself if I start using one, I will somehow find a way to end with an inundation. I will even install an overflow on the tank in case I forget it.

My city uses Chlorine in their tanks and Chloramine in the distribution grid, The documentation mention that the activated carbon cartridge does not remove Chloramine and so I added a catalytic carbon cartridge to remove it. It should help protect the membrane from damage and the DI resin from precipitated depletion.

I should be able to last a month per run and do around a hundred runs before replacing the cartridges. Theorically 8 years.

What are you using to remineralize your water ?

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I do not remineralize as I mix my RO/DI with my tap. My tap is well water with no chlorine/chloramine. I have had so many fish spawn in my tanks that I tell people my well water apparently contains a natural fish aphrodisiac.

I may also use RO/DI in the rare case where I have to do a dry/rainy season simulation. But I can di that by hardenting the tap water which then becomes the rainy season water. I did not need my unit until I got wild altums. They needed very acid, very soft water (4.2 pH and TDS under 30 ppm).

 

[MaloK]

Lucky you... Remixing with my tap water would defeat the whole purpose in my case

 

[Sleeveless]

I've got well water too, but is horrible. I run all RO/DI now and remineralize. Im pumping 40G a week for water changes so plan to upgrade my RO system. Also brewing beer, I can take advantage of a better RO system for 2 hobbies. Wells can be great, but they can be trash too.

 

[Fishfunn]

My biggest problem when I have to refill all of the containers is forgetting to check the filling status of the 20 gal. can and having it overflow. In the past 12 years I have only done this about 5 or 6 times and I batch water about 15 times/year. In the drier months I would also make if for my brother to use in his humidifiers so I had to make it more often for a few months. He stored his in 1 gal. jugs with lids.

I use a float cutoff in my RO/DI tank so the water is automatically turned off to prevent overflow

Aso Float Kit -FLT-Kit

www.aquariumwaterfilters.com