Urgent: Dying White Cloud Minnows

[Ponyta]

Hi, I'm new to the forum. I don't have any tropicals but I started a new tank of white cloud minnow recently..so far I'm not doing very well at keeping them alive..


1. Water parameters. (NH3-0, NO2-0, NO3-0 PH 7.2 temp 72F)
2. A full description of the fishes symptoms.
History (long):
-bought them on Boxing day and put them in qt (under tank was set up)
2 had ripped fins so added 0.3% salt;they weren't really eating but thought b/c stress of moving
a week later transfered them to tank w/ seeded filter
next day- lost one w/ ragged fins (chunks missing)
this Sun: 1 was hiding in the tank corner..dead by Mon (no symptoms except skinny)
Tues night- 1 minnow dying
Symptoms: hovering nose up at top of water (not gasping though) before started to tip sideways, tail fins a little frayed
This morning: a minnow that was bottom sitting last night died- no symptoms

Remaining fish:
1 normal WCM- white lip-(not fuzzy)
long finned WCM- hovering near bottom w/ quivering fins
both- not eating


3. How often you do water changes and how much.
Did a 50% yesterday night, and about a 10% on Sat maybe can't remember (tested daily though and parameters were all good)
4. Any chemicals and treatments you add to the water.
prime, melafix
5. What tank mates are in the tank.-1 WCM, 1 long finned WCM
6. Tank size.-20gal
7. Finally Have you recently added any new fish?- nothese are the only fish

What should I do for the remaining fish before its too late? I was hesitant to treat b/c there were few symptoms..but need to do something before I lose these ones too

Sorry if the post is long and confusing..

Thanks a lot,
really appreciate the advise

 

[jwddboy]

Sounds like you bought a bad batch...

Also sounds like you haven't been cycling your tank for long enough.

Keep up the water changes...

 

[Jo Booth]

Hiya

I had this same problem before xmas with my WCM minnows - I was setting up tropical.

Had an API test kit which showed 0 for everything except Ph.

Came on here with exactly the same description as you - almost word for word.

Was told it was my water quality - following day I found a very good LFS who used a different test kit and my ammonia was through the roof.

I was advised to do a 25% water change every day for 5 days (plus adding the tap safe solution and ensuring new water was a similar temp to the tank) and 3 weeks on remaining fish are still going strong and I am starting to add a few others.

LFS advised that for our area the API test kit just doesn't seem to work, not sure why. Have a n interpet kit now, easy to use and accurate and I double check with a wter sample at the LFS before I purchase new fish just to be on the safe side.

Good luck, hope things settle down for you too.

Jo

 

[Ponyta]

Hi,
Thanks for the replies.
Hmm..strange that your API kit doesn't work for your water. I think mine is working correctly though..the ammonia test works as it picked up the ammonia in my tap water (0.25) and the nitrate test works as it showed nitrates in my cycled goldfish tank. But I'll continue doing water changes I guess, hope that will help (I added a dose of prime this morning just in case).

So if its not water quality, what do you guys think about adding a general antibiotic?
Was thinking of doing that as a last option this Sat..that is if they last that long (sigh). One was already pretty weak this morning (was stuck to the filter intake)

 

[Jo Booth]

HIya

Don't know about adding any meds - I bought anti-bacterial meds and a general tonic and also received very good advice from a veteran fish keeper who knows my dad.

Both he and the LFS shop he advised me to visit advised 25% water changes and forget the meds - I took them a dead fish and even though you would swear it was bacterial, they said ammonia poisening and it was spot on.

I had two fish left at the point i went to the LFS and when I got home one was dead - but the other survived despite looking on the way out and now has tank mates.

Take a water sample to a good LFS who can at least double check your water for free - at least that way you know for sure and it will save you money on the meds if they are not needed. Do the water changes daily until you go - can't do any more harm.

Good luck

Jo

 

[Ponyta]

Update:
It seems I was too late..found the last minnow dead on Sat morning

What should I do about the tank now to disinfect it if I get more fish in the future (debating that right now)
Should I bleach? There's gravel in it, which would be hard to clean...
Or would anything nasty die if I leave it to run empty for long enough?

Thanks again for the help you guys

 

[Spooky76]

You dont really need to clean the tank, but fill with water from the tap thendry it, then start again with de-chlorinated water.

Remember ANY AMMONIA ABOVE 0 IS TOXIC TO THE FISH. If you do NOT fishless cycle, you will have ammonia readings along with Nirite. Some levels are acceptable, but take it as gospel, a reading of either is deadly to your fish. If you have either which you will at the start, water change constantly (10% a time) recheck after an hour, 1 10% in a day is NOT always enough. You have to keep going until its 0.

I have done this from about 11.00pm - 2.00am one day, its alot but it depends how much you want your fish to live.

Do you understand the cycling process ? If not I can point out some good articles to read.

Dont get down you just need to know a bit more about what your doing thats all.

Gravel is EASY to clean, you can buy a gravel vac for about £3 from your LFS (Get a small one) that cleans the bottom and does your weekly 20% water change for you.

Post back if you want to know ANYTHING more, someone will always help as long as your willing to ask.

 

[Ponyta]

Hi,
Yep, I understand the nitrogen cycle . , I'm going to fishless cycle it this time (so less stressful for the fish (and me))
As for gravel cleaning, I was talking about if the tank was infected (ie can I reuse the gravel), but if its ok, I'll just refill the tank this weekend
Hopefully it'll go better next time
Thanks, I'll be back to ask more questions if needed