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Aquarium Lighting
This section will be dedicated to an important element of aquarium keeping; that of lighting. This area of aquarium care can be the difference between life and death in certain applications, and the difference in long-term aquarium success, and growth.
There are two important decisions to be made before the aquarium lights are to be purchased, and installed. One of which, of course, is the lighting requirement of the aquarium to be set-up, and the other one is cost.
Most aquariums do very well with standard fluorescent or incandescent lighting. However, with the advancement of technology, and the recent popularity of the saltwater reef, and freshwater live plant aquariums, lighting demands are high, and deciding on the proper type of lighting is key. One needs to check the lumen, and light spectrum requirements of the specimens or fauna to be kept. From here one can determine the lighting requirements of the aquarium.
Cost is a factor always, but especially when one is looking into a high-tech metal halide, compact fluorescent, or combination lighting systems. Make sure the lights are not only affordable now, but also in the future as bulbs will wear out, and need to be replaced. Check to see what the cost is of replacement bulbs, and how often the manufacturer recommends replacement. Most aquarium bulbs need to be changed about once a year to year and a half, as a generalization.
Always, always have the aquarium specimens in mind when purchasing aquarium lighting. Certain common aquarium inhabitants can easily be stressed and/or killed as a result of incorrect lighting decisions. Long-term stress and/or death may occur from slight misjudgments in certain aquarium applications. Specimens that photosynthesize, or feed off light, with perish for sure without the proper lighting conditions.
This section will discuss the four major types of aquarium lighting, and go into them in depth. Select the type of lighting to the right to view more detailed information. There are other alternatives to aquarium lighting, such as natural sunlight. This is only an option though, for limited aquarium applications, and only recommended for advanced aquarists. However, we will be covering the major artificial light sources used in aquaria today.
Incandescent Lighting
Incandescent Lighting has been a popular form of aquarium lighting for decades. It is an inexpensive, versatile light source that is used in aquariums both big and small. This lighting offers many colors, and bulb strengths. As with other light sources, there are advantages and disadvantages to having this type of lighting, and it is only useful in certain aquarium applications.
One important note is that incandescent lights produce a significant amount of heat. This heat can be helpful, or detrimental, depending on how and where it is used. More often than not, it is detrimental. Smaller aquariums are especially vulnerable to these temperature changes.
Incandescent lights have been very popular with smaller type aquariums, mainly because many different types of incandescent bulbs will fit into a small aquarium hood, which is another reason this is a popular form of lighting. They have also been available to the hobby longer than the other types of lighting.
Some downfalls though, with this type of lighting is that the spectrum of the bulb is not consistent, bulb life is short, and they are inefficient at high lumen output in deeper aquaria.
Things to look for when shopping for an incandescent bulb would be color, wattage, connector type, and bulb life. Some bulbs offer a "spec sheet" in, or on the box for information about the bulb. Careful consideration needs to be taken in determining what the proper type of lighting is for your type of aquarium environment.
Because of the heat produced by this bulb, as with metal halide lighting, proper circulation and/or ventilation is desirable. An efficient heater is also mandatory in most applications because of the temperature changes, that can take place when the light turns off. This is especially the case in smaller aquariums, or aquariums with poor ventilation.
Fluorescent Lighting
Fluorescent light have been around for the last 50 years or so, and have become very popular and widely used in the last 20. Fluorescent lighting for aquarium use is probably the best all-around bulb for the aquarium, and has become a staple for aquarist's lighting needs.
The physiology of the light is actually fairly simple. The bulbs are basically long glass tubes which contain phosphor bits, and when an electrical current is run through the tube, these phosphors heat up and emit visible light. Different mixes of phosphors will give different properties of spectrum and intensity, resulting in different light colors.
Fluorescent bulbs come in three main forms. These are regular output (around 400 milliamps), high output (HO-around 800 milliamps), and very high output (VHO-around 1200 milliamps). The bulbs come in many different colors and wattages, and most bulbs run very cool, are inexpensive, and have a relatively long bulb life. They are also available in a broad spectrum of bulbs lengths.
Fixtures for these bulbs are broadly available, and come in many shapes and sizes. Most aquarium setups are sold as a tank/top/light combination. More often than not these light fixtures are fluorescent. Consider the specimens to be kept to decide the color (K temp) of bulb to be purchased.
Each bulb requires a ballast, which transforms energy from the electrical outlet to the bulb. These are rated in milliamps, so it's recommended that the ballast is matched to the milliamp ratings of the above bulbs.
Many fluorescent lighting hoods now offer electronic ballasts that can be operated by timers for automated lighting control. Consult the light manufacturer if this is an important option for you.
Some hobbyists, especially reef and freshwater plant aquarists, now use multiple fluorescent bulbs. Those who use the VHO fluorescent bulbs have great results in lumen production, and keep a low running heat. Another pro is that the bulbs are available in many color renditions, so it's easy to mix and match.
Mixing fluorescent bulbs with other lighting types (ie. metal halide, compact) will offer increase in overall lighting lumens, and color rendition of the total lighting system. Advanced hobbyists are known to mix bulbs and color temps to certain effects.
For most aquarists who intend on keeping tropical fish only, this is the lighting form we recommend. It's also an energy efficient, safe form of lighting that should be popular in the aquarium hobby for years to come.
T5 Florescent Tubes.
T5 fluorescent tubes differ from traditional fluorescents as they have a smaller diameter and produce higher outputs, up to 80% greater. In addition they have a very long life of up to 20,000 hours, almost two and a half times that of other fluorescents. Also, very importantly, spectrum output is only reduced by around 10% (See also “Maintenance of Fluorescents” below) over the operating life of the tube. These characteristics make these tubes a good choice where high output is required and they are a very competitive in cost terms when compared with standard fluorescent (T8) tubes and Metal Halide lights. Arcadia produces a range of daylight white and Actinic T5 tubes in 24,39,54 and 80 watt outputs. Compact T5 tubes are also available from other manufacturers. It inconceivable that this type of tube will ultimately take over from other types.
Enhancing Fluorescent Tubes.
Greater light output can be achieved by fitting of reflectors. These can increase light output by 80 to 100% and are especially useful for deep aquaria where light penetration can be a problem. Clean reflectors regularly to maintain their reflective potency.
Maintenance of Fluorescent Tubes.
To ensure maximum light output at all times it is vital to clean the tubes on a regular basis. It is recommended that this be carried out every four weeks by gently wiping with moistened kitchen paper or cloth. Stubborn deposits may be removed with methylated spirits or a proprietary glass cleaner. Ensure that the tube transformer is switched off and the tube is cold before attempting any cleaning. It is a characteristic of fluorescents that the spectrum of light emitted changes and reduces gradually throughout the life of the tube. Some tubes lose between 40 to 60% of their output after only six months usage. It is important, therefore, to replace tubes at least every twelve months unless the manufacturers specification indicates that this is not necessary as low reduction of spectrum output over the life of the tube is a characteristic.
Compact Lighting
To simplify what compact lights are, is to call them fluorescent light on steroids. These powerful and energy-efficient lights are available at limited aquatic outlets, and offer a nice alternative to aquarium lighting. We would consider these lighting systems the best overall "bang for your buck" and is the best long-term economic value for high intensity lighting needs.
Compact fluorescent technology offers several distinct advantages over conventional fluorescent lighting.
These lights give considerably more light output, which in turn gives you a brighter tank.
Compact bulbs are smaller in size than the fluorescent tubes, and can put out much more light. The bulb life is long, too, with some manufactured bulbs lasting 2+ years. Longer bulb life saves money and time.
They consume less electricity than conventional fluorescent lighting, which makes them very efficient and economical.
Most compact fixtures are sold as a complete aquarium hood. Many of which are very attractive and multi-functional. However, retro-fit type systems, and do-it-yourself kits are also currently available.
Most power compact ballasts are timer-ready, and easily enclosed in a hood area, or underneath the aquarium. These are small and energy efficient.
These bulbs are also known for their depth penetration. The average aquarist probably doesn't know this, but with every inch of aquarium water that light has to penetrate, significant intensity is diminished. Most conventional fluorescent bulbs are dramatically effected by this. The compact lighting sources have tremendous efficacy and great reach.
For high lumen, and full spectrum lighting needs, some people mix and match the compact lights with metal halide, or fluorescent bulbs. This gives an effect matched by no other type of lighting, except of course, sunlight. The effects of this combination on saltwater reef aquariums is especially notable.
Most bulbs are sold from 28 to 96 watts per bulb, and offer many color renditions. Always keep the specimens in mind when choosing wattages and colors.
Metal Halide Lighting
Metal halide lighting offers a beautiful and intensive lighting source for the aquarium. This form of lighting has become popular in the aquarium hobby, especially by the reef or plant enthusiasts. They produce a truly "sun like" effect on the water, and will create a dancing, rippling reflection of light in the tank unmatched by any other current aquarium lighting.
There are many options to consider when metal halide lighting will be purchased. Keeping in mind what will be kept in the aquarium first, you then need to decide how bright the bulb should be, and what color light you desire from the bulb.
The metal halide bulb is now sold in many different wattages, and temperatures. The most common wattages found include 50, 150,175, 250, and 400 watt bulbs. The wattage basically will determine the brightness of the bulb.
There are also a variety of temperatures to choose from. The common choices 4500, 5500, 6500, 10,000, 120,000, 15,000 and 20,000K bulbs. The K represents degrees Kelvin. The lower the degree K, the whiter or more yellow the lamp appears, the higher, the more blue the lighting appears. Many freshwater plant enthusiasts prefer a lower Kelvin bulb (around the 5500-6500 K range) for freshwater plants. Saltwater reef hobbyists use bulbs in the more blue range (10,000-20,000 K range).
Metal halide lighting also puts out heat and will raise the Fahrenheit/Celcius temperature of the aquarium water. Care needs to be taken that the aquarium is in a well ventilated room. Some tanks, especially reef aquariums require a chiller unit to cool the water, especially the aquaria with strict temperature parameters.
The lights come in many different forms as well, some include, pendants, independent bulb hoods, ventilated hoods, combination (fluorescent, compact, halide) hoods, hi-tech hoods, retro kits, and other do-it-yourself type kits.
A ballast may be required to run your lights. The ballasts convert the electrical energy into bulb energy. Some systems come with their own ballast, some require the separate purchase. There are many good ballasts available. Electronic ballasts are the most efficient, and versatile. However they are more expensive than the former tar style ballasts.
High Pressure Sodium added by Andywg
HPS is like MH in its operation (a number of ballasts do both MH and HPS) but is far more efficient when it comes to lumens per watt. The big downside is the relatively low K rating, though it is becoming easier to obtain daylight bulbs (and if you can you are on to a winner, more strength than MH at far less running costs).
Types of Night lighting
Ok so as with day lighting it is nice to be able to see your fish at night without freaking them out by turning the lights on when your drunk.. (or cant sleep)
Why do you need night lighting??
Well night lighting is useful to see fish that only like night time environments (some loaches and L fish (Pleccos))
What you have to remember is that most fresh water fish with brilliant colours don’t live in crystal clear water. but in dark mud rich ponds. However us as only a hobbyist and not a fanatic Aquarians chuck fish from all over the world in a tank and expect them to perform for us. However in realty they don’t and not every fish eye is built up the same way. Fish that live in dark conditions have a different eye setup than fish that live in rivers or streams that has a good flow and the water is crystal clear.
The Eye and Night Vision
The eye has two sets of light sensitive cells used for seeing. One set by day (Cones) and the other set by night (Rods).
a. Day Cells (Cones): The day cells work in the moonlight, but under poor light conditions they are ineffective. Day cells or cones and located in the center of your eyes.
b. Night Cells (Rods): The night cells located around the day cells are very sensitive to light but can take up to 40 minutes to become fully adapted to the darkness. The night cells work when the day cells are affected by falling darkness.
Off Center Vision: At night, if one looks directly at an object, one will see very little. To help see better at night one should look slightly to the side of the object and periodically glance at the object before it disappears from your sight.
Now if you think that when your in a car at night and you haven’t seen a car in ages then all of a sudden you see a cars head lights you get a pain in the head after having the lights shine into the car. This is because your eyes are collecting to much light and its hurting the nerve endings, this is why you squint.
Now if you think if the poor plecco that is happy and swimming around at night then you hit the lights that’s why they shoot around the tanks bashing into every thing.
This will also cause stress in your other fish as I said it takes about 40 min for the night rods to expand to its full width. Then bang light and the rods try to contract.. OWWWWW.
Ok so back to night lighting.
In the past people have used things like flash lights red light bulbs and sprayed TL lamps however in today’s aquarium it is possible to purchase special built or made night lighting.
Here is a list of the types you can purchase.
LED
LED lights are the most cost effective and give outstanding results as led technology has advanced in leaps and bounds.
You can also get solar powered systems now that will run in your aquarium over the dark hours and charge over the day.
These Small and compact units , requiring only around 3.5 volts DC to operate, the peak operating temperature never rises above 80° degrees (F) making it a perfect light source. Some double collimated light can travel to 1.8mtr 6’ feet through water. LED’s provide long life, approximately 20,000 to 30,000 hours.
This section will be dedicated to an important element of aquarium keeping; that of lighting. This area of aquarium care can be the difference between life and death in certain applications, and the difference in long-term aquarium success, and growth.
There are two important decisions to be made before the aquarium lights are to be purchased, and installed. One of which, of course, is the lighting requirement of the aquarium to be set-up, and the other one is cost.
Most aquariums do very well with standard fluorescent or incandescent lighting. However, with the advancement of technology, and the recent popularity of the saltwater reef, and freshwater live plant aquariums, lighting demands are high, and deciding on the proper type of lighting is key. One needs to check the lumen, and light spectrum requirements of the specimens or fauna to be kept. From here one can determine the lighting requirements of the aquarium.
Cost is a factor always, but especially when one is looking into a high-tech metal halide, compact fluorescent, or combination lighting systems. Make sure the lights are not only affordable now, but also in the future as bulbs will wear out, and need to be replaced. Check to see what the cost is of replacement bulbs, and how often the manufacturer recommends replacement. Most aquarium bulbs need to be changed about once a year to year and a half, as a generalization.
Always, always have the aquarium specimens in mind when purchasing aquarium lighting. Certain common aquarium inhabitants can easily be stressed and/or killed as a result of incorrect lighting decisions. Long-term stress and/or death may occur from slight misjudgments in certain aquarium applications. Specimens that photosynthesize, or feed off light, with perish for sure without the proper lighting conditions.
This section will discuss the four major types of aquarium lighting, and go into them in depth. Select the type of lighting to the right to view more detailed information. There are other alternatives to aquarium lighting, such as natural sunlight. This is only an option though, for limited aquarium applications, and only recommended for advanced aquarists. However, we will be covering the major artificial light sources used in aquaria today.
Incandescent Lighting
Incandescent Lighting has been a popular form of aquarium lighting for decades. It is an inexpensive, versatile light source that is used in aquariums both big and small. This lighting offers many colors, and bulb strengths. As with other light sources, there are advantages and disadvantages to having this type of lighting, and it is only useful in certain aquarium applications.
One important note is that incandescent lights produce a significant amount of heat. This heat can be helpful, or detrimental, depending on how and where it is used. More often than not, it is detrimental. Smaller aquariums are especially vulnerable to these temperature changes.
Incandescent lights have been very popular with smaller type aquariums, mainly because many different types of incandescent bulbs will fit into a small aquarium hood, which is another reason this is a popular form of lighting. They have also been available to the hobby longer than the other types of lighting.
Some downfalls though, with this type of lighting is that the spectrum of the bulb is not consistent, bulb life is short, and they are inefficient at high lumen output in deeper aquaria.
Things to look for when shopping for an incandescent bulb would be color, wattage, connector type, and bulb life. Some bulbs offer a "spec sheet" in, or on the box for information about the bulb. Careful consideration needs to be taken in determining what the proper type of lighting is for your type of aquarium environment.
Because of the heat produced by this bulb, as with metal halide lighting, proper circulation and/or ventilation is desirable. An efficient heater is also mandatory in most applications because of the temperature changes, that can take place when the light turns off. This is especially the case in smaller aquariums, or aquariums with poor ventilation.
Fluorescent Lighting
Fluorescent light have been around for the last 50 years or so, and have become very popular and widely used in the last 20. Fluorescent lighting for aquarium use is probably the best all-around bulb for the aquarium, and has become a staple for aquarist's lighting needs.
The physiology of the light is actually fairly simple. The bulbs are basically long glass tubes which contain phosphor bits, and when an electrical current is run through the tube, these phosphors heat up and emit visible light. Different mixes of phosphors will give different properties of spectrum and intensity, resulting in different light colors.
Fluorescent bulbs come in three main forms. These are regular output (around 400 milliamps), high output (HO-around 800 milliamps), and very high output (VHO-around 1200 milliamps). The bulbs come in many different colors and wattages, and most bulbs run very cool, are inexpensive, and have a relatively long bulb life. They are also available in a broad spectrum of bulbs lengths.
Fixtures for these bulbs are broadly available, and come in many shapes and sizes. Most aquarium setups are sold as a tank/top/light combination. More often than not these light fixtures are fluorescent. Consider the specimens to be kept to decide the color (K temp) of bulb to be purchased.
Each bulb requires a ballast, which transforms energy from the electrical outlet to the bulb. These are rated in milliamps, so it's recommended that the ballast is matched to the milliamp ratings of the above bulbs.
Many fluorescent lighting hoods now offer electronic ballasts that can be operated by timers for automated lighting control. Consult the light manufacturer if this is an important option for you.
Some hobbyists, especially reef and freshwater plant aquarists, now use multiple fluorescent bulbs. Those who use the VHO fluorescent bulbs have great results in lumen production, and keep a low running heat. Another pro is that the bulbs are available in many color renditions, so it's easy to mix and match.
Mixing fluorescent bulbs with other lighting types (ie. metal halide, compact) will offer increase in overall lighting lumens, and color rendition of the total lighting system. Advanced hobbyists are known to mix bulbs and color temps to certain effects.
For most aquarists who intend on keeping tropical fish only, this is the lighting form we recommend. It's also an energy efficient, safe form of lighting that should be popular in the aquarium hobby for years to come.
T5 Florescent Tubes.
T5 fluorescent tubes differ from traditional fluorescents as they have a smaller diameter and produce higher outputs, up to 80% greater. In addition they have a very long life of up to 20,000 hours, almost two and a half times that of other fluorescents. Also, very importantly, spectrum output is only reduced by around 10% (See also “Maintenance of Fluorescents” below) over the operating life of the tube. These characteristics make these tubes a good choice where high output is required and they are a very competitive in cost terms when compared with standard fluorescent (T8) tubes and Metal Halide lights. Arcadia produces a range of daylight white and Actinic T5 tubes in 24,39,54 and 80 watt outputs. Compact T5 tubes are also available from other manufacturers. It inconceivable that this type of tube will ultimately take over from other types.
Enhancing Fluorescent Tubes.
Greater light output can be achieved by fitting of reflectors. These can increase light output by 80 to 100% and are especially useful for deep aquaria where light penetration can be a problem. Clean reflectors regularly to maintain their reflective potency.
Maintenance of Fluorescent Tubes.
To ensure maximum light output at all times it is vital to clean the tubes on a regular basis. It is recommended that this be carried out every four weeks by gently wiping with moistened kitchen paper or cloth. Stubborn deposits may be removed with methylated spirits or a proprietary glass cleaner. Ensure that the tube transformer is switched off and the tube is cold before attempting any cleaning. It is a characteristic of fluorescents that the spectrum of light emitted changes and reduces gradually throughout the life of the tube. Some tubes lose between 40 to 60% of their output after only six months usage. It is important, therefore, to replace tubes at least every twelve months unless the manufacturers specification indicates that this is not necessary as low reduction of spectrum output over the life of the tube is a characteristic.
Compact Lighting
To simplify what compact lights are, is to call them fluorescent light on steroids. These powerful and energy-efficient lights are available at limited aquatic outlets, and offer a nice alternative to aquarium lighting. We would consider these lighting systems the best overall "bang for your buck" and is the best long-term economic value for high intensity lighting needs.
Compact fluorescent technology offers several distinct advantages over conventional fluorescent lighting.
These lights give considerably more light output, which in turn gives you a brighter tank.
Compact bulbs are smaller in size than the fluorescent tubes, and can put out much more light. The bulb life is long, too, with some manufactured bulbs lasting 2+ years. Longer bulb life saves money and time.
They consume less electricity than conventional fluorescent lighting, which makes them very efficient and economical.
Most compact fixtures are sold as a complete aquarium hood. Many of which are very attractive and multi-functional. However, retro-fit type systems, and do-it-yourself kits are also currently available.
Most power compact ballasts are timer-ready, and easily enclosed in a hood area, or underneath the aquarium. These are small and energy efficient.
These bulbs are also known for their depth penetration. The average aquarist probably doesn't know this, but with every inch of aquarium water that light has to penetrate, significant intensity is diminished. Most conventional fluorescent bulbs are dramatically effected by this. The compact lighting sources have tremendous efficacy and great reach.
For high lumen, and full spectrum lighting needs, some people mix and match the compact lights with metal halide, or fluorescent bulbs. This gives an effect matched by no other type of lighting, except of course, sunlight. The effects of this combination on saltwater reef aquariums is especially notable.
Most bulbs are sold from 28 to 96 watts per bulb, and offer many color renditions. Always keep the specimens in mind when choosing wattages and colors.
Metal Halide Lighting
Metal halide lighting offers a beautiful and intensive lighting source for the aquarium. This form of lighting has become popular in the aquarium hobby, especially by the reef or plant enthusiasts. They produce a truly "sun like" effect on the water, and will create a dancing, rippling reflection of light in the tank unmatched by any other current aquarium lighting.
There are many options to consider when metal halide lighting will be purchased. Keeping in mind what will be kept in the aquarium first, you then need to decide how bright the bulb should be, and what color light you desire from the bulb.
The metal halide bulb is now sold in many different wattages, and temperatures. The most common wattages found include 50, 150,175, 250, and 400 watt bulbs. The wattage basically will determine the brightness of the bulb.
There are also a variety of temperatures to choose from. The common choices 4500, 5500, 6500, 10,000, 120,000, 15,000 and 20,000K bulbs. The K represents degrees Kelvin. The lower the degree K, the whiter or more yellow the lamp appears, the higher, the more blue the lighting appears. Many freshwater plant enthusiasts prefer a lower Kelvin bulb (around the 5500-6500 K range) for freshwater plants. Saltwater reef hobbyists use bulbs in the more blue range (10,000-20,000 K range).
Metal halide lighting also puts out heat and will raise the Fahrenheit/Celcius temperature of the aquarium water. Care needs to be taken that the aquarium is in a well ventilated room. Some tanks, especially reef aquariums require a chiller unit to cool the water, especially the aquaria with strict temperature parameters.
The lights come in many different forms as well, some include, pendants, independent bulb hoods, ventilated hoods, combination (fluorescent, compact, halide) hoods, hi-tech hoods, retro kits, and other do-it-yourself type kits.
A ballast may be required to run your lights. The ballasts convert the electrical energy into bulb energy. Some systems come with their own ballast, some require the separate purchase. There are many good ballasts available. Electronic ballasts are the most efficient, and versatile. However they are more expensive than the former tar style ballasts.
High Pressure Sodium added by Andywg
HPS is like MH in its operation (a number of ballasts do both MH and HPS) but is far more efficient when it comes to lumens per watt. The big downside is the relatively low K rating, though it is becoming easier to obtain daylight bulbs (and if you can you are on to a winner, more strength than MH at far less running costs).
Types of Night lighting
Ok so as with day lighting it is nice to be able to see your fish at night without freaking them out by turning the lights on when your drunk.. (or cant sleep)
Why do you need night lighting??
Well night lighting is useful to see fish that only like night time environments (some loaches and L fish (Pleccos))
What you have to remember is that most fresh water fish with brilliant colours don’t live in crystal clear water. but in dark mud rich ponds. However us as only a hobbyist and not a fanatic Aquarians chuck fish from all over the world in a tank and expect them to perform for us. However in realty they don’t and not every fish eye is built up the same way. Fish that live in dark conditions have a different eye setup than fish that live in rivers or streams that has a good flow and the water is crystal clear.
The Eye and Night Vision
The eye has two sets of light sensitive cells used for seeing. One set by day (Cones) and the other set by night (Rods).
a. Day Cells (Cones): The day cells work in the moonlight, but under poor light conditions they are ineffective. Day cells or cones and located in the center of your eyes.
b. Night Cells (Rods): The night cells located around the day cells are very sensitive to light but can take up to 40 minutes to become fully adapted to the darkness. The night cells work when the day cells are affected by falling darkness.
Off Center Vision: At night, if one looks directly at an object, one will see very little. To help see better at night one should look slightly to the side of the object and periodically glance at the object before it disappears from your sight.
Now if you think that when your in a car at night and you haven’t seen a car in ages then all of a sudden you see a cars head lights you get a pain in the head after having the lights shine into the car. This is because your eyes are collecting to much light and its hurting the nerve endings, this is why you squint.
Now if you think if the poor plecco that is happy and swimming around at night then you hit the lights that’s why they shoot around the tanks bashing into every thing.
This will also cause stress in your other fish as I said it takes about 40 min for the night rods to expand to its full width. Then bang light and the rods try to contract.. OWWWWW.
Ok so back to night lighting.
In the past people have used things like flash lights red light bulbs and sprayed TL lamps however in today’s aquarium it is possible to purchase special built or made night lighting.
Here is a list of the types you can purchase.
LED
LED lights are the most cost effective and give outstanding results as led technology has advanced in leaps and bounds.
You can also get solar powered systems now that will run in your aquarium over the dark hours and charge over the day.
These Small and compact units , requiring only around 3.5 volts DC to operate, the peak operating temperature never rises above 80° degrees (F) making it a perfect light source. Some double collimated light can travel to 1.8mtr 6’ feet through water. LED’s provide long life, approximately 20,000 to 30,000 hours.
