LOL, I just wrote an entire article for my work on this, (so please don't copy or reproduce this information), but here is an article to get you started wioth red ear sliders, fairly common species and very fun, I have 2 myself.
The Tank
I suggest going as large as possible, always think maximum size for your turtle. For red ear sliders the maximum size is between 8 and 12 inches (20 and 30 centimeters) so count on a tank big enough. Again, the number of turtles is a factor in the size of tank needed. Most people prefer to have two turtles, this is a great idea, they keep each other company, which keeps them active, as well it will not be too crowded for comfort. So based on two turtles at maximum size the ideal size of tank would be 40 gallons or larger. This will give the turtles plenty of swimming space, which they love.
Now you may be thinking that is very large if you buy turtles as babies, that is why a smaller tank might be better to start with and eventually upgrading to a larger tank when needed.
The Filter
Best thing I can suggest is a strong filter with low current. Baby turtles are quickly overwhelmed by strong current, but at the same time, they produce a lot of waste. Using a submersible filter is great, but stay away from over-hang style filters as they often do not work well with lower water levels. A sponge filter is another option, however they quickly are clogged up and need frequent cleaning. An under-gravel filter is another option which also will provide the need waste removal, but does not allow for the addition of media such as activated carbon.
Lighting and Hoods
Probably the single most important thing for a turtle. A good fluorescent reptile light is key for a turtle; this will produce the needed UVB light. Most aquarium bulbs only produce UVA light and are insufficient for keeping a turtle that is why a reptile light is needed (anywhere from 3% to 10% UVB is fine). Unlike fish aquariums, a turtle also needs a second light, a heat lamp. This is a special light fixture which looks a bit like a desk lamp, but do not get them confused, heat lamps a specially designed not to melt from its own heat. Inside this lamp is a bulb, usually a red looking bulb although others are available; they are anywhere from 50watts and up. The exact wattage is determined by the distance the lamp is from the turtles basking spot. Generally, a 50watt is great if the lamp is from 10 to 15 inches (20 to 40 centimeters) away from the turtles. You may need a more powerful lamp if it is further away, basically you want their basking area to be around 90°F (32°C). Now the combination of these two lights makes a standard aquarium hood almost impossible and quite unsafe as well. The best option is a wire or screen top, this way the heat lamp can rest on top of it without concern of melting (like plastic may do) or cracking (like glass may do). Then a single fluorescent strip light is perfect to place on top as well.
Decorations
These are much more important for a turtle then for fish. The decorations are what the turtle uses to get out of water to dry off and bask under its light. Many things are available, from turtle docks to floating logs. However, a simple rock or bridge structure often will do the trick. Basically, you want an area on top of the water about double the size of the turtle for them to come out onto. It is important to make sure that whatever you construct it is done so to avoid the turtle from being stuck. If a turtle wedges themselves in between a couple rocks they can drown. Other than that very few ornaments should be put in the water, turtles like their swimming space.
Now you have the tank set-up, but the question now is what do you need to keep your turtle happy and healthy…
Food
Most turtles that you buy are young, and at this age they should be fed a primarily meat based diet, this can include shrimp, bloodworms, earthworms (not bait worms), fish, or any seafood will work, just make sure it can fit in there mouth or can be taken in a couple of bites. These foods are full of the needed nutrients that turtles need to grow strong and healthy. However, the one thing these foods lack is significant calcium for proper shell growth, so adding a calcium supplement (usually a spray or powder put on their food) is a good idea. As they get older (around 2in (5cm)) it is a good idea to start introducing turtle pellets which contain a more balanced diet, try doing half the feedings with pellets and the other half with the afore mentioned meaty foods. Adult turtles are going to feed more on plant mater and the pellets, including, romaine lettuce, aquarium plants, or even bananas. The next question is how often and how much? Well for young turtles feed them every other day, older turtles can be brought done to twice a week, and finally the adults can be fed once to twice a week. This is going to keep the turtles tank cleaner and your turtle growing slower. How much food is difficult to say for certain because turtles are always hungry, like most animals, so the best way to judge is as much as they eat in about 15-20 minutes.
Tank Mates
Honestly it is difficult to adapt a turtle to live with fish because of the different tank set-up and behaviours, however most other turtles of the same size make great tank mates; including maps, painted turtles, or cooters. If you are intent on adding fish, make sure they are fast and can hide to get away from the turtles or they will be eaten, personally I have only had luck with loaches.
Handling Your Turtle
Don’t! Turtles are at their heart wild animals and get very stressed out when over handled. So I recommend only handle them if necessary; for example checking the health of their shell occasionally, or moving them. Which brings me to my next point about handling; many people are tempted to let their turtles out of the tanks to play on the floor or outside, or to entertain guests. Turtles and floors don’t mix, it agitates them and makes them panicked, the same goes for entertaining guests, ultimately it’s too much stress on the turtle. The only time the turtle should be taken out, other than to check health, is to put them outside on the grass in the summer. Make sure it’s a warm day and very sunny, take your turtle out put him on the grass and let him soak up the sun, it is very healthy for them, and should be done once a week if possible in the summer.
This covers almost everything you would need to know about turtles to get started. Except for the one burning question, is it a boy or a girl? Well you cannot tell when you buy a baby turtle, they have to be older (at least 3in (8cm)), and at that age you can usually tell by the shell and/or claws. On males the front claws are going to be longer than on a female, this is so he can grab the shell of the female for breeding. Also the bottom shell on the male is usually caved in, once again to fit on top of the female for breeding, and female’s usually cave out, in order to hold the eggs when an adult.
For further information I strongly recommend a good beginners book, and remember to have fun and enjoy your new red ear slider.
I hope that helped, I know its long but its detailed.
Oh Oh and now for the plug.
For all your aquarium needs please visit your local Big Als Aquarium Services Warehouse Outlet (this information is the info of me, the author and is not supported by Big Als)
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