To many tannins?

[Pictus]

I have a 75 gallon tank. I put in a bunch of driftwood and now my water is quite brown in color. I don't really mind the coloration because I like the natural look of it but I am concerned about my plants not getting enough light. Does brown colored water block the light from getting to my plants? My tank is 36" long and 30" deep. I have one 30" fluval plant light and one off brand 15", both led. They are set on timers for 12 hours of light. Also my tank is in front of a window. I have had this tank for about two months and my plants don't seem to be thriving. They kinda look like they are just hanging on. I am using aquarium co-op plant fertilizer for the past 3 weeks and have seen a small improvement. I have tried to post photos but I do not think it is possible using a cell phone.

 

[Pictus]

OK figured out how to upload pictures

 

[Slammin’ Aquascaping]

I have a feeling that it won’t affect most plants, because a lot of plants in the hobby are from South America and such, which have tannins naturally. You’re plants should be ok. Anyway, brown doesn’t change the type of lights that come out on your tank. I hope that made sense

 

[WhistlingBadger]

I have a feeling that it won’t affect most plants, because a lot of plants in the hobby are from South America and such, which have tannins naturally.

That's true, but I believe most of our aquarium plants are more marginal plants in nature. Underwater footage I've seen of the Amazon system and Southeast Asian creeks usually don't show plants growing in deep water; only in shallow streams and along the edges. So I don't know how well-adapted the plants are to deep, tanin-stained water.

When I had a lot of tanins in my SA tank due to fresh wood, I controlled it with water changes. I like the water stained a nice dark yellow or pale brown when I look through it length-wise. Any darker than that and the plants are probably suffering.

 

[WhistlingBadger]

OK, I just noticed your pictures. Your water isn't that dark; I was expecting it to be opaque. I'd say your level of tannins isn't hurting the plants.

 

[Pictus]

OK, I just noticed your pictures. Your water isn't that dark; I was expecting it to be opaque. I'd say your level of tannins isn't hurting the plants.

OK thank you

 

[Pictus]

I have a feeling that it won’t affect most plants, because a lot of plants in the hobby are from South America and such, which have tannins naturally. You’re plants should be ok. Anyway, brown doesn’t change the type of lights that come out on your tank. I hope that made sense

OK good to know. Thank you!

 

[seangee]

Your plants are not very demanding of light - they will be fine.

 

[10 Tanks]

I have a 75 gallon tank. I put in a bunch of driftwood and now my water is quite brown in color. I don't really mind the coloration because I like the natural look of it but I am concerned about my plants not getting enough light. Does brown colored water block the light from getting to my plants? My tank is 36" long and 30" deep. I have one 30" fluval plant light and one off brand 15", both led. They are set on timers for 12 hours of light. Also my tank is in front of a window. I have had this tank for about two months and my plants don't seem to be thriving. They kinda look like they are just hanging on. I am using aquarium co-op plant fertilizer for the past 3 weeks and have seen a small improvement. I have tried to post photos but I do not think it is possible using a cell phone.

Hello Pictus. The amber color will fade in time. Weekly, large water changes will speed up this process. Direct sunlight isn't good. It will raise the temperature of the tank water and warmer water doesn't hold oxygen as well as cooler water. You will also see an increase in algae growth. Put a shear curtain on the window and your tank will be fine.

10 Tanks (Now 11)

 

[Pictus]

Hello Pictus. The amber color will fade in time. Weekly, large water changes will speed up this process. Direct sunlight isn't good. It will raise the temperature of the tank water and warmer water doesn't hold oxygen as well as cooler water. You will also see an increase in algae growth. Put a shear curtain on the window and your tank will be fine.

10 Tanks (Now 11)

Good to know. My window is a north facing window, so indirect sunlight. I don't think heat should be an issue. As for oxygen I have bubbles. Do bubbles add oxygen. Also I need a co2 setup for a 75 but have only been able to find setups for 50 gallons at the pet stores. Does anyone know where I can get a co2 system for my 75 gal?

 

[sharkweek178]

Good to know. My window is a north facing window, so indirect sunlight. I don't think heat should be an issue. As for oxygen I have bubbles. Do bubbles add oxygen. Also I need a co2 setup for a 75 but have only been able to find setups for 50 gallons at the pet stores. Does anyone know where I can get a co2 system for my 75 gal?

Technically the surface agitation from the bubbles adds the oxygen.

 

[Byron]

Good to know. My window is a north facing window, so indirect sunlight. I don't think heat should be an issue. As for oxygen I have bubbles. Do bubbles add oxygen. Also I need a co2 setup for a 75 but have only been able to find setups for 50 gallons at the pet stores. Does anyone know where I can get a co2 system for my 75 gal?

Is there a specific reason you want diffused CO2? This is certainly not necessary, nor advisable (it does affect fish), if plant-related.

As for the window light, this is going to cause "problem" algae but will not help plants at all. The overhead tank light is your "daylight" for the plants. For three summers in a row my tanks developed brush algae, and I finally figured out it was the increased and brighter ambient daylight in summer. As the tanks were in a fish room, it was not problematic to completely block the windows with aluminum foil. No more brush algae for five years since. The additional summer light was insufficient to benefit the plants, but algae is not as fussy.

 

[Pictus]

Is there a specific reason you want diffused CO2? This is certainly not necessary, nor advisable (it does affect fish), if plant-related.

As for the window light, this is going to cause "problem" algae but will not help plants at all. The overhead tank light is your "daylight" for the plants. For three summers in a row my tanks developed brush algae, and I finally figured out it was the increased and brighter ambient daylight in summer. As the tanks were in a fish room, it was not problematic to completely block the windows with aluminum foil. No more brush algae for five years since. The additional summer light was insufficient to benefit the plants, but algae is not

And here I was thinking I was helping the plants and fish. I will get a dense curtain to cover up that window. Thanks for the tip. As with the co2 I was led to believe that it helps keep down the ph level.

 

[GaryE]

I'm not so sure about the ambient light and window system. I have excellent growth in a tank right under a window. Very little algae, and wonderful reds in the ludwigia. I even have Pistia taking off - a plant I had never before been able to grow indoors. I have very high quality LED plant lights on other tanks, but the plants in that one are thriving. It gets angled direct sunlight, and is surrounded by house plants.

 

[Byron]

As with the co2 I was led to believe that it helps keep down the ph level.

I was wondering about this which is why I asked. I don't advise any of these "extras" because of the increased problems. An aquarium has a biological and chemistry balance. This is based upon the source water (the chemistry) and then the fish/invertebrate load (biological). The parameters of the source water are a unit. The pH will be governed by the GH and KH. Other factors like dissolved CO2 also play into it. Natural CO2 is one aspect, and it will affect the pH in relation to the GH and KH. This if left alone will be stable. Water changes will replenish the same parameters. But as soon as you do anything to impact this stability, it opens the door for instability. You are creating another level of balance, but there is always the danger that something will tip the balance. This is why any and all additives are dangerous, aside from the fact that most all of them do detrimentally impact fish health. Keeping things as simple as possible is always more safe for the fish.

We can explore the pH issue if you want, just provide the GH, KH and pH of the source water.

I'm not so sure about the ambient light and window system. I have excellent growth in a tank right under a window. Very little algae, and wonderful reds in the ludwigia. I even have Pistia taking off - a plant I had never before been able to grow indoors. I have very high quality LED plant lights on other tanks, but the plants in that one are thriving. It gets angled direct sunlight, and is surrounded by house plants.

My comment here was solely meant to illustrate how ambient window light can affect the algae. The underlying issue is balance, between the light intensity and duration and the nutrient level. In my situation, over a couple of years I worked this balance out to perfection. None of the eight or nine tanks had problem algae once I got the tank light down to seven hours each day. With eight hours, I had had brush algae issues in some tanks. But once I got the duration down to seven hours, the light intensity and the fish load and the plant load and nutrient supplementation were all in balance. In the winter months with shorter days, this worked fine. But in the summer with the increased daylight, and stronger daylight, coming through west facing windows, it offset the balance and brush algae began to increase. Blocking the light in summer allowed the balance to take control again. For the following five years I had no problem algae.