Timber For Hood? Now With Pics!

[paulf]

That will be fine,although you will need to brace it across otherwise it will warp and the chances are it will warp when you paint it anyway, I made a lid with the same type of wood, braced it and it still warped as I painted it.

Thats better than MDF or marine ply as both of these will soak up the water as said above and yes I do know this as fact as I work for one of the biggest 'shopfitters' in the country and we go through tons of both every month

 

[alexlark]

Thanks Paulf

Once I construct the hood I shall post some pics for you all to see.

I am going to be staining the outside distressed pine as I have purchased a distressed pine 5ft side board that I am going to reinforce with 3" x 2" PSE. Hopefully they will look good together. Anyway, I'm more excited setting up the 4ft tank as I am upgrading from a 2ft after 8 years!! Hoping to get it done by the end of January as I am still decoring the livingroom!!

Keep you posted anyway!!

Thanks for all your advice!

 

[Lateral Line]

Good luck, and show us the results!

For any that doubted I was serious when I said that aquariums can and are made with plywood walls, google "aquarium +plywood", I just did and had 231,000 hits. Even GARF has plans for one. LeRoy is using exterior grade ply, I would use marine grade, but whatever "floats your boat", (groan!).

 

[themissingelf]

MDF is a no go - it's moisture proof only and, when it gets too damp is blows open. I've used 9mm waterproof bonded ply in the past, coated with paint inside (to reflect the light) and varnish on the outside. Solid as a rock. No ingress etc, although the tank did have cover glasses.

The pic you posted looks like veneered chipboard. If it is, then personally I would not use it. I know that it does get used in the aquarium trade for stands and the like, however, I suspect that the stuff they use if bonded with a moisture proof adhesive/resin. Try taking an offcut and place it somewhere damp to see what it does.

Personally, I'd be using solid wood, lined with laminate; however, you have to be familiar with construction techniques that will allow it to expand and contract and not warp too.

 

[alexlark]

I understand what you mean about the timber expanding and contracting. I am going to use tank glasses as well do cut down on moisture in the hood area. It's just the heat off the light tube that may be a problem, but I shall be using light reflectors aswel.

The board in the pic is more or less lots of 2" x 1" glued together on edge (laminated pine). So in effect solid timber. I wouldnt touch particle board with a barge pole (if I had one!!)

 

[themissingelf]

Just looked more closely - I can see now what you mean about the construction.

What type of lights are you using (and how many)?

 

[alexlark]

I am only using 1 tube. It's just under 4ft.

What I am thinking is that the amount of heat it generates will be just enough to stop any moisture problems in the hood but not too hot as to effect the timber (if u know what i mean)

 

[themissingelf]

If it's a T8 type tube, then I can't see you having any problems. I had two running the hood that I made. With regard to the condensation (and using the heat generated by the lamp to minimise it), I'd be trying to ensure that you have a vent low down in the hood and another at the top - the idea being that the rising heat escapes from the top vent, drawing cool air in via the lower vent.

 

[alexlark]

If it's a T8 type tube, then I can't see you having any problems. I had two running the hood that I made. With regard to the condensation (and using the heat generated by the lamp to minimise it), I'd be trying to ensure that you have a vent low down in the hood and another at the top - the idea being that the rising heat escapes from the top vent, drawing cool air in via the lower vent.

Good point!! I shall bear this in mind. Thanks

 

[alexlark]

Progress so far!

Sideboard bought for £80 and then re-inforced

Building the frame for the hood

Pineboard cut and sanded

Now cut in half and piano hinge fixed

Added a bead of quadrant around the inside of the front of the lid to stop any light shining through


Started this on Sat and I took these yesterday, so not bad for 2 days work!!

Watch this space for more pics on the progress!!

 

[paulf]

Looks ace mate

 

[gayno]

Very nice, I'm about to start building mine and this has given me a couple of ideas.

Just one question, what saw did you use for cutting the long lengths and keep it straight?

 

[alexlark]

adam,

all i used was a standard handsaw for the top and an electric chopsaw for the mitres.

I was going to cut the large pineboard top with an electric skill saw but decided to cut it by hand as I find you have more control. I then used the cut edge as the back (after sanding).

Good luck!

 

[NoRp]

i cant seem to find what wood u used anywhere? i think i read somthing about pine? how much the it all cost?

 

[alexlark]

i cant seem to find what wood u used anywhere? i think i read somthing about pine? how much the it all cost?

I used a sheet of laminated Pineboard for the top. 3" pencil round for the sides. Door stop for the inside (to sit on the tank). A pack of 8 plastic modisty blocks (fixing the inside corner of the mitres). 6ft piano hinge (cut down to 4ft). 40 brass screws.

Pineboard £17
Pencil Round £5
Door Stop £2
Modisty Blocks £2
Hinge £4
Screws £1.50

Very cheap so far!!!

The next job is to paint the inside with anti-mould and rot clear stain. Then stain all over with Antique Pine (to match the base). Then 3 coats of clear yacht varnish on the inside. Fix the lighting tube, job done!!


Anti-mould £15
Antique Pine Stain £5
Varnish £5