The Algae Keeps Winning

hubbard_shark

Fish Fanatic
Joined
Aug 5, 2006
Messages
197
Reaction score
0
Location
Lakewood, CA
So in the past month, the algae in my tank has been growing insanely. the glass is covered with brown and green algae, and my sand is being covered by red/brown algae, and what looks to be hair algae, or it could be diatoms. ive tried cuttin the time my lights on, and even threw in a couple margarita snails, but it still aint workin. anyone have any ideas, let me know. scrubbin my tank everyday is becomin annoying :angry:
 
are you using RO water? tell us about your tank? do you have a link? all tanks have an algae cycle.. In my tank the hair algae is starting to die off.. once that is gone i hope ill be in the clear... if you have VERY VERY bad hair algae you may inlist the help of a sea hare... a skimmer is a must in that case... check out SkiFletch's post about his tank...
Ter
 
im running a 37 gl reef tank, it runs off a refugium, 700 GPH. so yes i am using RO for my refugium. the tank has 2 clowns, sixline wrasse, royal gamma, scarlet ree hermits, cerith snails, margarita snails, nassarius snails, a pom pom crab, then 3 corals: candy cane, galaxea, young fingers

ever since i bought my new lighting fixture, 130watts, 2 x65watt, is when i noticed the algae increase. but i figured this would occur, so i cut the lighting back.
 
same here.. but i've left the lights running.. ive read about an algae cycle.. and its normal... one algae after another has taken' over my tank.. but things are starting to die off... do you have a lot of Po4? any readings?
Ter
 
Welcome to the throes of nuisance algae my friend :). Lets see what I can do to assist you in your time of need :). The first two steps are diagnosis of the problem and iagnosis of the species of algae. Lets get the species down first. Have a look at this site down to the bottom. You'll see listings for hair algae, byropsis, cyanobacteria, dinoflagellates, and diatoms. I HIGHLY doubt your problem is diatoms since scarlet hermits gorge themselves on diatoms. You've more likely got cyanobacteria, hair algae, or dinoflagillates. Remember that cyanobacteria can be red, rust, brown, green, lime, and even purple in color. All cyanobacteria has pretty much a fleece texture though so make sure you look for that more than just the color ;).

Once you know what kind of algae you have there are some treatments I can suggest. Each treatment involves first trying to eliminate the "fuel" of the algae and second trying to find a predator or other solution to remove whats allready there. Nuisance algae is fueled by one or many of the following: High nitrates, High phosphates, High silicates, low flowrate, high dissolved organic compounds (which ultimately lead to high nitrates/phosphates ;)). You can try testing for nitrates and phosphates but chances are if you've got significant algae allready the algae is consuming the nitrates/phosphates faster than they enter the system so you'll likely read 0 for all of the above. For example, when I was amidst my own nuisance algae problem my nitrates and phosphates read 0 yet the tank was green as can be. Unfortunately silicates and dissolved organics cannot be accurately tested for :(.

So how do these "fuels" enter the tank? 2 ways, either with the makeup water you add during water changes, OR via feeding. First, makeup water. Have you tested your makeup water for nitrates and phosphates before adding it to your tank? If there are none then you're clearly not adding any into the system. Furthermore, have you tested your RO discharge for total dissolved solids (TDS)?. So long as the RO TDS is below 10ppm you're generally OK. Of it rises above that you'll need to service your RO unit.

If your makeup water has no input of nutrients time to look at your feeding regimen. How much and how often do you feed your fish? You can try cutting down on feeding but even that may not yeild results. You should strain all frozen foods to remove dissolved organics and phosphates. My method is to stretch a women's nylon over the top of a glass and thaw the food on top of it. Then I mix up a frozen concotion in another small glass and meter it out into one of those weekly medicine plastic things (you know, the things old people use to help them know what meds to take...). Then I stick it back in the freezer. When its time to feed I remove the tra, knock out a cube and feed away.

Do you grow macroalgae in your refugium? If not, do it. That'll help remove nitrates/phosphates. Make sure you use a decently powered light though since under low-light conditions hair algae/byropsis can overtake chaetomorpha.

Finally, do you have a protein skimmer? I noticed that I wasn't really able to control my hair algae until I got a BIG skimmer. Since then its been an uphill battle, but at least one that I can win. Remember, dissolved organic proteins can break down and release LOTS of phosphate and nitrate too. Proteins are littered with phosphorus compounds that just pollute your tank when they decompose. Having an oversized protein skimmer in my sump has helped a LOT. I bought a EuroReef skimmer (pretty sure its the 6-2 model) which is rated for well over 200 gallons. Things huge but does a great job keeping me DOC free :)

Once you've taken steps to eliminate the source you can try and find a natural predator or other treatment. Remember to research any predator additions to make sure they're compatible with your tank first ;).

Edit: You can also try creating conditions favorable to coraline algae growth and have that out-compete the nuisance algae. Coraline likes high powered lighting along with high alk/calc/mg. Think 11-12dKH, 450ppm calc, and 1500ppm Mg
 
ok for sure i know its cyanobacteria, thats covering my sand, and some of my LR. then i have this thick green algae on my glass, that if i dont clean it becomes impossible to remove. hope this helps u guyz help me
 
Ah cyanobacteria, the second most nefarious of the algaes IMO (dinoflagellates are worse). The only natural predator I've found for cyano is Cerith and Trochus snails. Even though they may eat it, they do so slowly so they're not enough to remove a rampaging bloom of algae. Cyanobacteria is very nefarious in that it can use a LOT of different nutrients for fuel, including silicates (which most algaes dont bother with). Cyano is common among new tanks especially around the 3-5 month mark for reasons which I dont personally understand, but I do know that its a common problem. My tank had it at the 3 or 4 month mark, I forget which. My only personal hypothesis for the bloom comes from the fact that perhaps LR releases silicates or complex phosphates after a period of time for some unknown reason :huh:. Be that as it may, on to the solutions:

Check the TDS of your RO. Its usually not a problem for people buying RO or if you maintain your membrane properly, but its better to know than not ;). TDS of 10ppm or less is ok

Run phosphate media in a HOB, womens nylon, or even in a modified bottle. The best stuff to use BY FAR is Rowaphos. Its a sediment filter that does NOT leech phosphate back into the water like many chemical ceramics can. And the good news is that its now being shipped to the States at a somewhat reasonable cost (since its a UK product ;)). You only need a little and it lasts months, great stuff.

Skim, skim, and then skim again. Protein skimming will help in the long run and remove fuel for cyano and/or any other algaes. If you can afford it, get an ozonizer (ozone) and put its output directly into your air intake for your skimmer to boost the effectiveness of the skimmer. Ozone breaks up many organics that because of their structure otherwise would not be removed by the skimmer. The ozone forces them into a structure that the skimmer can remove.

Feed less and strain your frozen. As I mentioned before, straining off the dissolved organic laiden "juices" in frozen foods will lower your nutrient input and reduce fuel for the algae.

Be patient. In time the algae will likely burn itself out by consuming all the nutrients that its using as fuel. When you decrease the nutrient input by the methods I mentioned, the algae will ultimately burn itself out and perish.


As an aside, some people reccomend using "red slime remover". Red slime remover is basically an antibiotic that targets cyanobacteria. There are many conflicting claims that the product does or does not harm other beneficial bacteria in your tank. Although those who have used it claim it works like a charm. However, because it MAY be detrimental to beneficial bacteria in the tank I do not reccomend using it except as a LAST resort.

HTH
 
I noticed u said this happened to u w/n ur first few months, so b/c of this, what could have caused mine to grow when my tank has been running for over a yr now. Is it the possiblity of me adding the new lighting system, I mean I went for 24watts to 130watts, I could imagine this would cause an algae growth. I have some ceriths in their now, but havent noticed a difference, Im gonna try the trouchus snails though, as well as, a water change to see, cuz my nitrates are ok, but a little high. as well as, check my RO water, as I do buy it from the store, but will test it. What is the best way to test RO since I notcied u had said u can, like what do u use to test it? thx
 
You need to use whats known as a TDS meter (total dissolved solids). They're cheap litte electrical devices around $10-15. They're all over ebay ;). I'd get the pen type since you get your RO from the LFS.

Its possible that since cyanobacteria is photosynthetic that you didnt see any growth till you had enough light. Its also possible that you've had silicates waiting in your water column. Now that you added the light the cyano had both the nutrients (silicates/nitrates/phosphates), and the light to grow fast. So test that TDS and lets go from there :)
 
heres pics of what im dealing with:
algae2.jpg

algae1.jpg

and its much worst than it looks, as i had cleaned my tank before this pic, and the sand covered some of the cyanobacteria algae. ive been doing the water changes, hoping to remove watever is in my tank. and been testing my water:

nitrate:lil less than 20, (so not perfect, but still ok)
nitrite:0
alk:220
ph:7.8
 
ill check it out, but like i said, i scrambled up the sand, so its usually the enitre sand covered, extremly nasty. its still the pt of having an annoying color algae all over
 
not sure why your getting algea bloom after 1 yr running i just think this this happens every now and then?
deffo cyno though like ski says check your ro water for TDS get that ph up to about 8.2 as well 7.8 is a little low do you have good water movement at the surface is your tank covered with a hood ?
 
700 gph is the flow, and it seems to circulate the enite tank very well as i can see everything in every angle flowing. i have a hood for my tank, but since buying the refugium and new lighting system, i have to make some modifications to the hood (ie saw). is not having a hood actually a part of this algae cause? i never thought about it until now, but it would make sense as everything in the air can come into contact with my tank.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top