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TETRA & GOURAMI COMPATABILITY

Delboy50

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Hi,

I have last night added fish to my tank, its 230 litres. I purchased 24 Cardinal & 18 Rummynose Tetras.

I kept the tank lights off for an an hour then switched one on then the other won 30 minutes later.

They look absolutely beautiful and swim to together with energy. Then when I switched on the moon light they separated more and
were hanging around & in the plants. Lovely to watch & so relaxing.

I am going to leave them for a few weeks to settle then I am thinking off adding Pearl or Dwarf Gourami.

Any thoughts to having Gourami with Tetra fish.
 
I had a honey gourami with ember tetras once. Worked well together overall, the only issues were gourami mating (the top 1/3 of the tank was a NO GO zone for the tetra), and when feeding as the gourami was the dominant one it got to the food first. Pearl and Dwarf gourami may have different temperaments however. Others will have a better idea than me.
 
Don't touch dwarf gouramis (Colisa lalius) because they are regularly infected with the Gourami Iridovirus and or Fish Tuberculosis (TB), neither of which can be treated and once those diseases are in the tank, they are there until you disinfect everything, including the fish.

Don't leave moonlight on the tank all night. Having it on for 30 minutes at night is fine but the fish need darkness and normally only see blue light during the middle of the day.
 
Wild caught dwarf gourami are fine if you can find them - they pop up once in a while but they won't have the fancy colours you want.

As for compatiblity well one is from asia and one is from south america ('cept for those few found else where like africa). I guess the usual rules exist - if the gourami can eat it then it will but the smaller ones have small mouths and can't get as much into them. There are those really really large super dupe sized gourami but you didn't mention any of them i guess.
 
I’m having success with dwarf gourami and a lot of tetras. The only tension in the tank is the single angle and 2 dwarf gourami drifting into each others zones. Nothing heavy though . My pleco appears out of nowhere and muscles his way through the planted substrate.
 
Hi,

That has put me off the Dwarf Gourami then I don't like the idea of risking the other fish.

Does anyone else have Cardinals & Rummynose Tetras together?

They haven't eaten last night or tonight. I put in a little crush Aquarian flakes but they were not interested and I left it for a 10 mins then removed it the best I could with my fish net.
I tried Tubifex and that wasn't touched either. Finally some Daphnia no joy whatsoever.

I got my TDS monitor today and my water is 171ppm. I know that is too hard for the Cardinals so I know I will need to reduce it down slowly.
Am I right in saying not to reduce it down by more 1 degree per day?

Thanks

Derek
 
Hi,

That has put me off the Dwarf Gourami then I don't like the idea of risking the other fish.

Does anyone else have Cardinals & Rummynose Tetras together?

They haven't eaten last night or tonight. I put in a little crush Aquarian flakes but they were not interested and I left it for a 10 mins then removed it the best I could with my fish net.
I tried Tubifex and that wasn't touched either. Finally some Daphnia no joy whatsoever.

I got my TDS monitor today and my water is 171ppm. I know that is too hard for the Cardinals so I know I will need to reduce it down slowly.
Am I right in saying not to reduce it down by more 1 degree per day?

Thanks

Derek
You can do cardinals and rummy together but rummy really need a 48 inch aquarium for swimming room (my 50 are in constant motion 'cept when they aren't) and cardinals are mostly idle (my 50 just sit around all day 'cept when the discus move towards them then they quickly switch to the other side of the aquarium).
-
Your water is sort of that middle ground - not soft but not hard. To be honest most of the fishes i know of want either harder water or softer water - though knowing the gh/kh component would be helpful - if most of the tds is in the gh component then softwater fishes will still work well.
 
I think a pearl gourami would work with your tetras...although I'm not sure of your tank dimensions, sorry. Gourami mouths are pretty small but an adult with young small tetras is iffy. Maybe allow your tetras to grow a bit before adding the pearl.
 
Lots of people have cardinal and rummynose tetras together and they get along fine.

-------------------

TDS meters are useless for aquariums because they measure everything dissolved in the water and give you a number. You need to find out what the GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness) are. Most tetras come from soft water with a GH below 100ppm and a pH below 7.0. The KH is usually very low as well (below 50ppm).

The GH, KH and pH of the water can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website (Water Analysis Report) or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

You don't normally need to check the GH and KH all the time because it doesn't normally change but it's a good idea to check it a couple of times a year just to make sure it hasn't changed.

-------------------

When do you feed the fish, straight after the lights come on or sometime later?
You want to turn the light on and wait at least 30 minutes (preferably an hour or more) before feeding the fish so they can wake up.

If the fish aren't eating, check the water quality and do a big (75%) water change and gravel clean the substrate if there is any ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

Maybe post pictures and a video of the fish so we can check them for diseases. You can upload videos to YouTube, then copy & paste the link here.
If you use a mobile phone to film the fish, hold the phone horizontally (landscape mode) so the footage fills the entire screen and doesn't have black bars on either end.

My guess is they just need time to settle in so don't worry too much about them not eating yet. Just give them time and offer a small amount of food once a day. Remove any uneaten food after a few minutes so it doesn't cause ammonia problems.
 
TURNING LIGHTS ON AND OFF
Stress from tank lights coming on when the room is dark can be an issue. Fish don't have eyelids and don't tolerate going from complete dark to bright light (or vice versa) instantly.

In the morning open the curtains or turn the room light on at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the tank light on. This will reduce the stress on the fish and they won't go from a dark tank to a bright tank instantly.

At night turn the room light on and then turn the tank light off. Wait at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the room light out. This allows the fish to settle down for the night instead of going from a brightly lit tank to complete darkness instantly.

Try to have the lights on at the same time each day. Use a timer if possible.

If the light unit is programmable, have it on a low setting for the first 30-60 minutes and increase the brightness over time. Do the opposite in the evening and gradually reduce the light for the last 30-60 minutes before lights out.

If you don't have live plants in the tank, you only need the light on for a few hours in the evening. You might turn them on at 4 or 5pm and off at 9pm.

If you do have live plants in the tank, you can have the lights on for 8-16 hours a day but the fish and plants need 8 hours of darkness to rest. Most people with live plants in their aquarium will have the lights on for 8-12 hours a day.


--------------------

LIGHTING TIMES
Most aquarium plants like a bit of light and if you only have the light on for a couple of hours a day, they struggle. If the light doesn't have a high enough wattage they also struggle. Try having the tank lights on for 10-12 hours a day.

If you get lots of green algae then reduce the light by an hour a day and monitor the algae over the next 2 weeks.
If you don't get any green algae on the glass then increase the lighting period by an hour and monitor it for a couple of weeks.
If you get a small amount of green algae then the lighting time is about right.

Some plants will close their leaves up when they have had sufficient light. Ambulia, Hygrophilas and a few others close their top set of leaves first, then the next set and so on down the stem. When you see this happening, wait an hour after the first few sets of leaves have closed up against the stem and then turn lights off.

Plant lights should have equal amount of red and blue light and a bit less green light.


--------------------

TWO LIGHT UNITS
If you have two light units on the tank, put them on timers and have one come on first, then an hour later the second one can come on. It will be less stressful for the fish.

In the evening, turn the first light off and wait an hour, then have the second light go out.

If the lights have a low, medium and high intensity setting, have them on low in the morning, then increase it to medium after a couple of hours, and then high for the main part of the day. In the evening, reverse this and have the medium setting for a few hours, then low. Then turn the lights off.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the advice.

The tank is 48 L 15 W 18 H so there is room for them to swim. I have noticed the Cardinals & the Rummy-nose swim together and are very actine with the lights on.
The last hr of the night I put the moonlight on and the fish start to slow down and mingle in the plants. Very relaxing to watch.

I have been doing what is suggested above put a light on in the room for 45 minutes in the morning. Then turning on one of the tanks lights for 30 mins then the other. Same at night just the opposite way.

They all started feeding this morning & again tonight so it took a couple of days to adjust after being added to the tank.

using an API test kit i have the following.

my tap water is as follows

GH IS 20
KH IS 6
P.H 7.2 but i find it tricky to read. ( I have bought a electronic PH tester)

I added 75 litres of RO and it changed to

GH 10
KH 3
P.H I think the same

I bought another 75 litres of RO today.

I am hoping to get the GH to below 100 is it safe to do that in one water change or would it be stressful on the fish?

Is there any issue with PH buffering if the KH were to fall to 1? I read a good KH is between 4-8 for PH stability.

Thanks

Derek
 
You can ignore the ph - it is fine if the kh drops and ph stability isn't a requirement. Sudden changes can shock the fishes but i'm not sure how much it takes to shock them. When i transition a couple of aquariums to 100% ro water i didn't really pay attention and i didn't have any issue with fishes (all were sa fishes). I just did my normal 50% water change and instead of tap water i used ro water (tap was kh 3 and gh 6). Some species of plants (esp crypts) can be shocked and die back and that might cause an alage bloom but eventually they will grow back.
 
Your tank sounds great for both tetra species & a pearl of any size. Don't get bogged down on exact parameters, all those fish are fairly adaptable. Most are farmed, so don't need the "wild" water of their progenitors.

Get in the habit of biggish water changes on a regular basis. I "try" for 40-50% weekly or so But I lightly stock my tanks & have many live plants too.

No fish "likes" any sudden huge parameter changes, go slow. Your fish should be OK IME.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I do intend to take it slow & have my weekly water changes planned for every Saturday. The water tests are planned for every Tuesday to cover the usual stuff.
 

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