Test results..what do they mean?
- Thread starter Meeko
- Start date
Is the nitrite reading somewhere on the chart? What to do next depends on the nitrite reading. If it is still of the top of the chart, I would do another water change to get it somewhere on the chart.
Once you have nitrite on the chart (either now or after another water change) look at the instructions in the link I gave you. You'll see it goes to down to 'Day 7' and a sentence or so after that it says
"If at any time after the first ammonia addition (Dose #1) you test and ammonia is under .75 ppm and nitrite is clearly over 2 ppm, it is time to add more ammonia (Dose #2). Add the same full amount as you did the first time. Now, begin to test the ammonia and nitrite levels every other day. (You should be seeing nitrate soon if you have the kit.)"
Start from there by adding enough ammonia to give 3 ppm and continue with the instructions.
When fishless cycling was first invented the method was to add 5 ppm ammonia every time it dropped to zero. But cycles took ages to complete, and it was finally realised that so much ammonia made a huge amount of nitrite which stalled the cycle. And it was also discovered that the ammonia eating bacteria do not starve if they are not fed when ammonia dropped to zero. The chap who wrote the the method in the link used both of these bits of information to write his method so that anyone who followed it to the letter should not have a stalled cycle.
But there are so many sites out there which still stick to the add ammonia every time it drops to zero method even though the one in the link is much better.
Bicarb will help stop the pH crashing but you need to make sure you do a very large water change once the cycle finishes to remove it all before getting fish.
Once you have nitrite on the chart (either now or after another water change) look at the instructions in the link I gave you. You'll see it goes to down to 'Day 7' and a sentence or so after that it says
"If at any time after the first ammonia addition (Dose #1) you test and ammonia is under .75 ppm and nitrite is clearly over 2 ppm, it is time to add more ammonia (Dose #2). Add the same full amount as you did the first time. Now, begin to test the ammonia and nitrite levels every other day. (You should be seeing nitrate soon if you have the kit.)"
Start from there by adding enough ammonia to give 3 ppm and continue with the instructions.
When fishless cycling was first invented the method was to add 5 ppm ammonia every time it dropped to zero. But cycles took ages to complete, and it was finally realised that so much ammonia made a huge amount of nitrite which stalled the cycle. And it was also discovered that the ammonia eating bacteria do not starve if they are not fed when ammonia dropped to zero. The chap who wrote the the method in the link used both of these bits of information to write his method so that anyone who followed it to the letter should not have a stalled cycle.
But there are so many sites out there which still stick to the add ammonia every time it drops to zero method even though the one in the link is much better.
Bicarb will help stop the pH crashing but you need to make sure you do a very large water change once the cycle finishes to remove it all before getting fish.
If you did a 60% water change and the nitrite reading was actually, say, 20 ppm the water change would take it down to 8 ppm which is still off the top of the scale. And of course anything above 20 ppm would still be off the top of the scale after the water change.
You could try a rough estimate of how high it is - and it will only be a rough estimate without very accurate measuring equipment. Start by mixing a bit of tank water and tap water half and half and test that for nitrite. If the reading is somewhere on the scale, another 50% water change would be OK. If that's still off the top of the scale, try mixing one part tank water with 3 parts tap water. If that gives a reading somewhere on the scale, you'll need to do a 75% water change.
You could try a rough estimate of how high it is - and it will only be a rough estimate without very accurate measuring equipment. Start by mixing a bit of tank water and tap water half and half and test that for nitrite. If the reading is somewhere on the scale, another 50% water change would be OK. If that's still off the top of the scale, try mixing one part tank water with 3 parts tap water. If that gives a reading somewhere on the scale, you'll need to do a 75% water change.
If even a 1 to 3 dilution still gives the maximum colour, that means your actual level is at least 20 ppm which is above the stall point of 15 to 16 ppm nitrite.
It looks like the only way to get nitrite down to a sensible level is a 100% water change.
It looks like the only way to get nitrite down to a sensible level is a 100% water change.
Yeah, that sucks but if it needs to be done. In saying that, tonight's test is less bright and more dull, looks to be lower than it was but still off the charts. I'll leave it 12 hours before I consider a water change.
So I come in this morning to 1 dead assassin snail. Quick test for ammonia and nitrite before I go and bang the ammonia is DARK BLUE 
So I immediately done a 90% water change because I know this isn't good. Results after the wc bring the ammonia back down to 0 and the pH has remained stable also the nitrite is still a bright pink/purple. I think my nitrate kit is faulty so I have another one coming in the post today.
Contemplated giving up if the water change didn't work. It's beyond ridiculous how stressful this can be.
So I immediately done a 90% water change because I know this isn't good. Results after the wc bring the ammonia back down to 0 and the pH has remained stable also the nitrite is still a bright pink/purple. I think my nitrate kit is faulty so I have another one coming in the post today.Contemplated giving up if the water change didn't work. It's beyond ridiculous how stressful this can be.
nitrate test kits pick up nitrite as well as nitrate.
before you replace your test kit, take a sample of tank water to the local petshop and have them test it. Take your test kits along and test the same water at the same time. If your test kits shows completely different results, then look at getting a new test kit. But don't buy a new one unless you have compared the results to another kit.
before you replace your test kit, take a sample of tank water to the local petshop and have them test it. Take your test kits along and test the same water at the same time. If your test kits shows completely different results, then look at getting a new test kit. But don't buy a new one unless you have compared the results to another kit.
I have tested the tap water previously and it has 0 for everything. pH out the tap is 7.2 after sitting for 24 hours.
I have my new nitrate kit and it is giving me a reading from 10-20ppm so this confirms what I read on a test trip and that my other api nitrate kit was giving me faulty readings.
I have my new nitrate kit and it is giving me a reading from 10-20ppm so this confirms what I read on a test trip and that my other api nitrate kit was giving me faulty readings.
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