Test Kits

[bally]

Hi Guys and Gals

Would like your suggestions on the best complete test kits, in the past i have always used my LFS to test my water, with the exception of ammonia, but now that i am stepping up my tank hobby, its time i bought a complete set. Can anyone recommened a decent one at resonable prices

thanks

 

[davejcollins]

Hi Guys and Gals

Would like your suggestions on the best complete test kits, in the past i have always used my LFS to test my water, with the exception of ammonia, but now that i am stepping up my tank hobby, its time i bought a complete set. Can anyone recommened a decent one at resonable prices

thanks

I've used a few but my favourite is API. The master test kit is decent enough but you can buy individual tests to add to it too. Fnd them quick, easy and less hassle than a lot of the others.

 

[bally]

was looking at api, the FLS use api

 

[Welshweeks]

you should be able to pick it up on ebay, amazon etc at least £10 cheaper than in your lfs, I recently got mine for £18 delivered off ebay.

 

[the_lock_man]

A few people recently have been recommending Salifert tests over API. In particular, the API ammonia needs to be viewed in the correct light so that a 0ppm doesn't look like a 0.25ppm, and the nitrate bottle no.2 needs shaking for ages to get a powder reagent completely dissolved, so it doesn't show a false 0ppm.

 

[Katch]

API liquid tests for Freshwater.

Salifert and D+D for Marine.

To be perfectly honest I use tests so infrequently. They are useful when setting up and cycling a new tank and I guess I occasionally check my Nitrates and pH (like once every other month or 3).

It's nice to have an Ammonia and Nitrite test handy in case you get problems so you can quickly see if they are an issue.

I think the API ammonia is pretty easy to read - add the drops and shake then put the test tube on a white piece of paper. If the colour of the test changes at all you have free ammonia in your water and therefore have a problem. If it doesn't change at all - everything is good.

 

[bally]

thanks guys

so do you recommened that the only tests really i would need are ammonia and nitrates, the rest are nice to have but can live without?

 

[Katch]

thanks guys

so do you recommened that the only tests really i would need are ammonia and nitrates, the rest are nice to have but can live without?

Ammonia and Nitrite tests for cycling new tanks and checking for problems.

Nitrate to make sure it is either not too high or high enough if you are planted

pH just to keep an eye on it.

I'd always keep these to hand even though I use them very infrequently.

 

[bally]

works out cheaper to buy indivdually i think,,

 

[Katch]

works out cheaper to buy indivdually i think,,

you get both high range and normal pH tests in the master kit - if your local water is hard and generally over 7 ph then get the high range - if it is soft and generally under get the normal range. Don't go by your tap water as it is treated to be neutral pH so that it doesn't corrode the copper pipework.

 

[maurizio]

I'm new in the hobby, and when starting the cycle I needed a full kit including all the main parameters. Among the ones available, I chose Tropic Marin for price and completeness (pH, KH, NO[sub]2[/sub], NO[sub]3[/sub], NH[sub]3[/sub]). For GH I got a separate one.

Since it is my very first test kit, I cannot really compare... I'm glad with it, though, with the only small exception of NO[sub]3[/sub], quite difficult to read given the similar colors... Would love to have a titrimetric test for nitrates, since on the long run it's the most important parameter. At least in my case (I get a lot from tap).

 

[Katch]

I'd say GH and KH test are only really needed if you are treating your water to change it's mineral composition. Having an awareness of your local water (hard or soft) is all you really need.

Nitrate tests are notoriously inaccurate and difficult to read - titration is better but still not great. I find the range of APIs nitrate test to be of an acceptable accuracy. Nirtates are not toxic to our stock at quite high levels - High tech planted tanks for example maintain 30-60 ppm Nitrate at all times.

As long as you are doing your regular water changes Nitrates will never be a problem - bio acidification is only a concern for that tank in the doctors surgery that hasn't seen fresh water for 18 months. You'll notice the fish are still healthy however - the only danger is that someone decides to do a massive water change as part of their spring clean this year and the pH swings from a bioacidified 5.5 to the local tap 7.6.

Lots of floating fish.