Tap water test results

[OldTimeFisher]

@Byron, after checking the KH & the GH again today, the KH took 7 drops or 7 ppm.
The GH on the first drop was a light orange/greenish color. The 2nd drop turned to light green. So GH = 2 ppm which is still 0 to 1 dh range.

 

[ClownLurch]

@Byron, after checking the KH & the GH again today, the KH took 7 drops or 7 ppm.
The GH on the first drop was a light orange/greenish color. The 2nd drop turned to light green. So GH = 2 ppm which is still 0 to 1 dh range.

Wow!
My tested ph is 8 with a dh of 19 (340pph)!

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Wow!
My tested ph is 8 with a dh of 19 (340pph)!

340 ppm is some really hard water that you have.

 

[Essjay]

@OldTimeFisher I have always had trouble seeing the end point of the GH tester. The colours are just so pale with soft water. If you haven't already done so, I find it easier to see if I take the cap off and stand the tube on a sheet of white paper then look down into the tube. Because you are looking trough more water (2 inches depth instead of half an inch width) the colour is stronger.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

If you haven't already done so, I find it easier to see if I take the cap off and stand the tube on a sheet of white paper then look down into the tube.

That is exactly the way that I preformed the test. It even tells you to do it this way in the instruction booklet. Thanks for the response @Essjay.

 

[Essjay]

You'd be surprised how many people miss that bit. But then they do read the word bright and keep adding drops because the colour is pale not bright. That's why I usually check

 

[Byron]

@Byron, after checking the KH & the GH again today, the KH took 7 drops or 7 ppm.
The GH on the first drop was a light orange/greenish color. The 2nd drop turned to light green. So GH = 2 ppm which is still 0 to 1 dh range.

If this is the API tet, one drop is 1 degree, not 1 ppm. So GH is 1 or possible 2 dH, which really doesn't matter. The KH would be 7 dKH which is still higher than I would expect. They may have changed the test, but I doubt it as the numbers for even moderately hard water would be too many for most of us to even count.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

If this is the API tet, one drop is 1 degree, not 1 ppm. So GH is 1 or possible 2 dH, which really doesn't matter. The KH would be 7 dKH which is still higher than I would expect. They may have changed the test, but I doubt it as the numbers for even moderately hard water would be too many for most of us to even count.

Thanks for pointing this out. I re-read the directions and your right. Each drop is 1° degree.
So after converting, it would be 2° x 17.86 = 35.8 ppm GH and 7° x 17.86 = 125.02 ppm KH, correct?
So out of curiosity, why are you expecting the KH to be lower? Just trying to learn.

 

[Byron]

Thanks for pointing this out. I re-read the directions and your right. Each drop is 1° degree.
So after converting, it would be 2° x 17.86 = 35.8 ppm GH and 7° x 17.86 = 125.02 ppm KH, correct?
So out of curiosity, why are you expecting the KH to be lower? Just trying to learn.

Yes on the numbers.

The GH and KH are frequently close, at least from what I have seen reported so often and from my reading. The pH results from these, also influenced by other dissolved substances (organics, CO2, etc). It is possible to have a GH and KH that are not close, and I am not a chemist so I won't even try to explain variations, but it does seem to me that dissolved calcium (and magnesium) in the water that results in the GH of "x" usually means a similar KH. Water softeners can alter this, which is why I asked about them previously, given the high pH.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Yes on the numbers.

The GH and KH are frequently close, at least from what I have seen reported so often and from my reading. The pH results from these, also influenced by other dissolved substances (organics, CO2, etc). It is possible to have a GH and KH that are not close, and I am not a chemist so I won't even try to explain variations, but it does seem to me that dissolved calcium (and magnesium) in the water that results in the GH of "x" usually means a similar KH. Water softeners can alter this, which is why I asked about them previously, given the high pH.

That makes since @Byron. Thanks for your patience and responses. It's a pleasure to converse with you. Also to have someone with water parameters close to mind.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Today I have a dilemma, I tested my tap water again just to see if the parameters are steady. This past Thursday the tap water parameters were as follows;
pH - 8.2
Amm. - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
KH - 8
GH - 2
Ca - 20

Today, Sunday, my tap water parameters are,
pH - 9.0
Amm. - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
KH - 7° or 125.02 ppm
GH - 1° or 17.86 ppm
Ca - <20

My external RO water that I presently make up for my Saltwater Reef Tank in a 32 gal brute container parameters are,
pH - 7.3
Amm - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
KH - 0
GH - <1
Ca - <20

So it's obvious that I can not trust my water authorities tap water for a stable pH.
My question is now, can I use my RO water and add something like Salty Shrimp GH/KH+
to replenish calcium and magnesium in my RO water for a freshwater aquarium?

Please keep in mind that I do not have a freshwater aquarium up and running yet. The tear down of my 90g saltwater reef tank starts tomorrow. I'm just in the process of getting all my info and equipment bought/ready for when I re-establish my 90g into a freshwater aquarium.
Sorry for such a lengthy post!
All recommendations are welcomed. Thanks!

 

[Byron]

My first comment is that variations in tap water frequently occur depending upon the water source, time of year, weather conditions. The pH has gone up more than one would like, but the other numbers are OK to my thinking (as far as the comparisons I mean). There is also still the unknown, which is how these parameters will play out in an aquarium when the biological system is established.

And, depending upon the intended fish, it may be OK when they settle out. Or it may be preferable to use RO exclusively.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Thanks @Byron. Ideally I would much prefer to use my tap water after dissipation of the chlorine. I probably have a month or 2 from now before I will be able to start back up with the freshwater.
So I have some time to do weekly testing on the tap water parameters. I'm just really perplexed over my tap water. 9.0 pH. It is a bit high for my comfort level.
If I do decide to go RO exclusively, would the Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ be the way to go?
Of course I'll still be adding plant nutrients either way, whether it's tap water or RO. But that will not help out with pH, GH nor KH.

 

[Byron]

Thanks @Byron. Ideally I would much prefer to use my tap water after dissipation of the chlorine. I probably have a month or 2 from now before I will be able to start back up with the freshwater.
So I have some time to do weekly testing on the tap water parameters. I'm just really perplexed over my tap water. 9.0 pH. It is a bit high for my comfort level.
If I do decide to go RO exclusively, would the Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ be the way to go?
Of course I'll still be adding plant nutrients either way, whether it's tap water or RO. But that will not help out with pH, GH nor KH.

My tap water now has a pH almost as high, at 8.7 or something. I was worried when this occurred last June, but now I ignore it. I simply do smaller (marginally) volume water changes. My GH and KH remain zero in the source water, and the pH is due to the addition of soda ash, which has been happening since 2001 but is now at a higher volume. This dissipates out over a day or so, and the individual tank's biological system is stable and tends to control the pH so it is in the 5-6 range with some increase after the W/C.

If I do decide to go RO exclusively, would the Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ be the way to go?

The use of buffers/mineralization depends upon the intended fish. I maintain only soft or very soft water species, which have a zero GH/KH in their habitat water, and a generally acidic pH. I obviously cannot keep livebearers, some rainbowfishes, rift lake cichlids in this water, so I don't as I prefer using the source water without additives as much as possible. As for buffers/remineralization, if I had to do this I would use a preparation that provides the necessary minerals and buffers. I've no idea what the shrimp formula is, but you want an additive that provides what the fish need, which may be different.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Ok, so maybe I'm just over thinking this.
I have placed a large glass of tap water on the side and will allow it to sit for a few days and test the pH again.
Another thought is to do an initial start up of the tank with a 50/50% RO to tap water or a greater percentage of RO that would get the pH down around an 8.0. Then just do smaller water changes with tap water as the tank settles in and see where that leads me. I will have plants and driftwood in the aquarium that should help to lower or buffer the pH also, correct?