Tap Water Or Filtered Water?

Julee

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I have decided to start a planted DP tank :D
I have a question about the type of water to use. Currently I refill a large 5 gallon bottle of filtered fresh water for my reef tank and need to know if that water will be okay to use. I have not found anything on the subject regarding ro/di water in a freshwater tank but one place and it was pertaining to plants. I have not tested the water fresh but I am assuming the parameters are all zero since after I add the salt it is all zero. I have yet to check the PH but that would be easy to enough to adjust.
Also feel free to jump in if this is not okay for the plants. (Native to the DP)
Thanks a bunch.
J
 
Hello Julee and Welcome to TFF!

Tap water is quite important to freshwater tanks. There are a cascade of minerals, usually starting with calcium and magnesium and tailing down to smaller and smaller amounts of more and more rare/trace minerals that are important to both freshwater fish and freshwater plants. For the fish the essential issue is that their systems are finely tuned to constantly handling the mineral/salt balance between the interiors of their cells and the exterior and their systems can only handle a certain range. For plants, the various minerals represent direct nutrition, playing in to the 16 or so nutrients that they steadily need as food.

In rare and special circumstances there are definately hobbyists that will go to the vast trouble of creating RO water and then carefully re-dissolving a custom set of minerals back into the blank water to create a particular TDS and mineral mix. As you're familiar with, this is done to an even greater extent in brackish and marine aquariums. But with freshwater aquariums we have an unsually lucky thing going that often our local tap water and our established tank water can stay very closely aligned in water chemistry, providing us with an unlimited supply of "instant safety net" by way of simple water changes from the tap, using only conditioner and rough temperature matching.

If you're really, really pushed by a special situation (eg. very hard local water and a desire to have a neon tetra tank, or breeding, that sort of thing) then yes, these things are done. But its much, much better if it can be avoided in my opinion.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thank you for that information waterdrop, I like the name by the way. :)

It seems that I did that part right at least back with my other tanks. :D
I started my reef tank with tap water and conditioner and had no problems so it may be just fine to use. From your reply it might be better, I had no idea that all the minerals would be good for a tank. I don't put anything in my reef but food. My set up is pretty simple and small. But you are right, there are a lot of people that add this and add that because of all the corals they have.

Do they make a special test kit to test for water hardness at the LFS?

I had another question but got sidetracked and now I forgot. :unsure: I will probably remember later.
Oh, I remember. What is considered a very hard water? Or I should say too hard of water for the puffer and plants? (there will be an oto and a shrimp or coolie in there too)

Thanks again
J
 
Yes, marine and fresh are just totally different worlds in many aspects of the water. Over the ocean the sun blazes down, unchecked/unshaded for much of the time and the water becomes loaded algae and microorganisms and of course high salt content thus creating an environment where "filterers" like invertebrates and mollusks can thrive. Many fresh environments are totally different, shaded in forests and clear, with a lack of the sorts of things filterers could use and with a mineral content that varies widely in different geographic regions. For different species, their region is their home and water and someone elses region and water might not be tolerated by the bodily regulation systems their species has evolved with.

Dwarf puffers like to have enough mineral content to put them at neutral (pH=7.0) or higher, whereas otos we know like things about neutral or a little softer (breeders are known to use pH=6.8 for otos.) So to have nice water for these two to live together you'd keep in the back of your mind that the oto won't really like it going to hard and the puffers won't really like it going to soft! But neither are known to be overly sensitive that I can tell and so the real issue is stability, as with most tropical freshwater fish. If you keep your hardness and pH reasonably stable (meaning that you don't use chemicals or other means to cause their pH/hardness to swing whole degrees in short periods of time) then they both should be fine. The good beginner maintenance habits we try to teach here help to establish these kinds of conditions in the aquarium. By using your given tap water and then performing regular weekly gravel-clean-water-changes you are maintaining your aquarium parameters closely with your tap water that will keep coming in as replacement water. By keeping the maintenance regular you are avoiding the pitfall of allowing minerals to build your hardness upward away from the original tap level (when water evaporates, it doesn't take the minerals with it!)

OK, so what test kits do we freshwater people use? Well, first off always make sure they were made for freshwater. A marine test kit may have some of the same reagents for tests but the color match cards will be different! Most of us like and use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, but that is because of a number of details and that it is middle of the road and reasonably priced. The gold standard that's a little more trouble to use are the individual Salifert test kits. The Nutrafin kits are also used as a general kit when the API ones are more difficult to find. Most, if not all of these folks, and TetraTest also, make GH/KH kits to measure general hardness and carbonate hardness. If you want to go beyond pH, then this is the next step. pH does not have to go in step with hardness but often it does. What this means is that if you find your tap water happens to be pretty close to neutral then you might decide to deduce that your hardness is not going to be a problem and just not spend the money on hardness kits.

~~waterdrop~~
edit,ps: as you may know, otos need a ton of algae to survive and one trick to feed them that I've heard is to keep a covered (for bugs) clear container in the sun in you backyard with 3 or 5 rocks that fit a spot in your aquarium. The idea is to get all the rocks covered in algae from the backyard sun and then rotate one at a time in to the tank where the oto can munch (or otos plural since they like company, but they'll survive with less company in a small tank with good food.)
 
I didn't realize the Oto likes different water hardness. I had seen them mentioned so much with the DP that I kind of assumed they were the same requirements and not just compatibility. Good to know. I suppose there is a happy medium then if both are a little flexible.
I can do the rocks in the sun for them, That is what my kitchen windowsill is for, sprouting bird seed, rotifiers (sp?) and little things like that. They will eat algae wafers as well? My pleco just loved those things.

It all makes perfect sense to me now. :) I like the API test kits they seem to be very reliable for me. I have heard stories that they aren't very reliable but I believe not all are perfect and mostly it boils down to personal preference. I have both types so when I am feeling lazy I can just stick a tab in there and be done with it. ;) I will, however, need to get a kit for freshwater.


Since DP's like wood, does the bogwood change the water much? I suppose I can go read up on it. I haven't used it before.


Thank you so much for this information it is very very helpful. I am really excited to learn all this in a different perspective then before. I Can't wait to get my tank up and running.
J
 
Yes, the bogwood will leach tannins, which will make the water more acid (lower pH) but its not the same as lack of mineral content, so its kind of different for fish and maybe not such a concern for you. WD
 
Thanks waterdrop, you have been most helpful. :)
 

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