Tank Testing

[Dublin_Lad]

I bought an API Master Test Kit last week and performed a test, logged the results and put everything away. The guy in the LFS demonstrated very well how to use the kit. He said that I should rinse the test tubes in tank water as opposed to tap water prior to use. My query is this: When I completed the test I left the tests in the tubes and put it away (as he had done in the shop). I intend to test again tonight. Do I throw old tests down the sink and rinse with tap water then rinse again with tank water and when test is complete should I immediately empty and rinse the test tubes? I don't want cross-contaminate the test tubes by doing a particulat test in a tube this time and a different test in same tube next time.

I'm aware I don't have to test this regularly but I had a water problem, through the week and want to re-check after a water change that was done last night.

Sorry if that's long-winded but I wanted to explain it properly. Thanks.

 

[MartinL]

It's not vitally important as tests are never 100% accurate.
Just empty the tests down the sink, give a few rinses with tap water (including the caps) to remove the test chemicals and before you do the next tests rinse the tubes with tank water.
That's what I do anyway!

 

[JustKia]

Being a bit obsessive I marked my tubes with a waterproof maker so I know which test goes in which tube (and which cap).
I then empty the tubes after the test is done, rinse out with tap water and leave to dry. When I next test I rinse them out with tank water (not in the tank), dip and fill the tubes and test away =)

 

[Dublin_Lad]

That's great folks. Thanks.

 

[waterdrop]

Yeah, dumping and rinsing in tap water at the sink is fine with what we want to get out of these tests. That's the may most of us treat them I believe. I don't even bother worrying about whether the same tube gets used for the same test, I just make sure put an inch or so of water in and give it a good shake as one of my rinses.

That said, there have been times when I've wanted to look for very small amounts of things, say when I was looking at what a dechlor product did to water that had chloramines in it and between some of those tests I've used distilled water instead of tap or tank water. From a chemistry standpoint that's the correct procedure, but for the vast majority of what we do, the detail level we want to see is nowhere near close enough for us to care I don't think.

Also, I always can't help repeating when on this topic: trends and patient, tedious logbook entries are by far the more powerful tool that multiplies the utility of water tests and other observations. A good aquarium logbook and the realization that you will not remember things that seem obvious right now once its a week later is a big help to your growth in the hobby.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[Nezabyte]

While we're talking about the test kit, I had a question for the ammonia test. When it's 0, will it be a very solid, bright yellow? Because my results always end up showing a distilled yellowish color; I'm assuming it represents .25 though instead of 0.

 

[OldMan47]

The zero ammonia test result using an API kit is a very yellow color. There is not the least hint of green to it.