Tank Stocking

Jonathan93

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Hi,

I’m almost done cycling my 10 gallon tank. I believe my filter is rated for up to 20 gallons and same with my heater. I’m wondering if stocking with two neon tetras, one Dalmatian platy, and one molly fish will be too much. I went by the original inch to gallon rule and figured this would be my maximum occupancy. Looking for thoughts.

there’s three small plastic items in the tank (one tree, cave, etc) but they don’t take up much room. I’m open to getting more hiding plants but am staying away from live plants and just using plastic. Any advice would help!

thanks

**Edit: I have two GLOfish Tetras, not neon tetras.
 
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As far as the neon tetra you should have at least 6 if not more, I have 9 currently and plan on adding more but I have a 55 gallon tank so have room. I only have Tetras (red eye, ember and neon) plus some albino catfish so I not sure on the other fish. Neon are only "happy" in groups of 6 or more.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum,

Has been mentioned above the Neon tetras need to be in groups of at least 6 but ideally more. Another issue you have with your intended stocking is that you have the Neons what are softwater fish with the platy and molly what are from hardwater.

Do you know your water parameters at all?

If not you will need to find out what your water parameters are so you can add the fish to your tank to suit GH (General Hardness) is most important followed by your PH. You can get your GH reading of your local water boards website or take a sample of your water to your LFS to test for you. You need the number and unit (ppm or dgh) for the GH. :)

Once you attain these numbers members will be able to advise you on stocking :fish:
 
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I would advise against platies and mollies even with hard water as they grow too big for 10 gallons. It is touch and go for neon tetras as well - what are the dimensions of the tank?
 
Dimensions of the Tank:
Length: 20.25
Height: 12.625
Width: 10.5

pH I’ve been keeping around 7 -7.5

I’m thinking of upgrading to a 20 gallon tank since my stand will support that. I will purchase a test kit to get the water readings as I couldn’t find them on my towns website. Had no idea neon tetras needed 6 or more. Figured 3 in a group at most. I had them in the tank before with the molly and platy and everyone seemed to get along fine. This was before I realized it wasn’t cycled since the filter media swap didn’t take. They’re all sitting in individual bowls now.
 
Hello! If you don’t know your water parameters, how do you know your tank is almost cycled? I wouldn’t add any fish until ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and nitrates are below 10ppm. A test kit is the only way to determine if tank s cycled. Do you understand the aquarium nitrogen cycle? We want you to do this correctly and not lose any fish. We’re here to help! :)
 
Hello! If you don’t know your water parameters, how do you know your tank is almost cycled? I wouldn’t add any fish until ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and nitrates are below 10ppm.

Hi, I meant I don’t know my hardness levels. KH (I think) and GH. I have a test kit for pH, ammonia, Nitrite, and nitrate. I’ve been monitoring for almost 4 weeks and in 24 hours my tank takes 3ppm if ammonia to 0, and it takes 36 hours for the nitrites to spike then drop to 0. Waiting until both are zero in 24 hours which I’ve read is fully cycled. I’m not expecting that to take too much longer.
 
Hi, I meant I don’t know my hardness levels. KH (I think) and GH. I have a test kit for pH, ammonia, Nitrite, and nitrate. I’ve been monitoring for almost 4 weeks and in 24 hours my tank takes 3ppm if ammonia to 0, and it takes 36 hours for the nitrites to spike then drop to 0. Waiting until both are zero in 24 hours which I’ve read is fully cycled. I’m not expecting that to take too much longer.
Perfect! Sounds like you have a handle on this. :)
 
Look on your water provider's website for hardness. We need to keep fish that come from water with the same hardness as our tap water. If we keep soft water fish in hard water their organs will get calcium deposits and they won't live as long as they should. if we keep hard water fish in soft water, they suffer from calcium depletion and get sick easier.
This is the reason we ask for your tap water hardness.
 
Fish sitting in individual bowls is not going to work, they are not cycled either. It would be better to put the fish you have in the 10g tank and buy a bacterial supplement; these introduce the necessary bacteria and will greatly speed up the cycling aspect. Tetra's SafeStart is about the best generally available, and if not this one then get Seachem's Stability. Follow thee directions. A small bottle of whichever will be sufficient.

We must have the GH before we can go forward with suitable fish. And if the water is hard enough for mollies, they need at least a 3-foot (90 cm) length tank, as they are not small fish when they grow to 4-6 inches, and they have quite an impact on the bioload.
 
Fish sitting in individual bowls is not going to work, they are not cycled either. It would be better to put the fish you have in the 10g tank and buy a bacterial supplement; these introduce the necessary bacteria and will greatly speed up the cycling aspect. Tetra's SafeStart is about the best generally available, and if not this one then get Seachem's Stability. Follow thee directions. A small bottle of whichever will be sufficient.

We must have the GH before we can go forward with suitable fish. And if the water is hard enough for mollies, they need at least a 3-foot (90 cm) length tank, as they are not small fish when they grow to 4-6 inches, and they have quite an impact on the bioload.

What you're describing above is a fish in cycle. I had attempted this at first and it went crazy wild (I also thought i had additional bacteria from my previous tank) The tetra safestart never worked. I believe got super overwhelmed. After researching more on this website I decided to convert to a fishless cycle. Hence why they're all in temporary bowls. I'm doing frequent water changes on those bowls to keep them healthy and plan to put them back into the tank.

I am buying a test kit tonight for the GH. My tank is not 3 ft. long and I don't plan on buying one that big. Best I am able to in my current apartment would be a 20 gallon. I was not aware Molly's could grow that big. I was under the impression they would be closer to 2-3 inches. I'll reply more with my water hardness when I test it tonight.
 
Byron know his stuff and there must be a breed if molly that will grow that large. Most mollies max out 2.5” though. I would encourage you to try Safe Start +. It did help if used correctly. You can’t help se Seachem Prime for your water conditioner for at last 24 hours after using it or the Prime will eat up the bottled bacteria.
 
SF gives black molly sizes as: Male 3.2″ (8cm). Female 4.8″ (12cm). When I was writing a profile of this species for another site, I came across reliable reports of females sometimes even attaining close to 6 inches. Of course, fish have to be kept in adequate conditions (hard water and largish tanks) to attain the normal sizes like this.

It would be advisable to return the mollies before they succumb (we still don't know the GH which is crucial) given the tank (10g or 20g) will not accommodate them regardless of GH.
 
SF gives black molly sizes as: Male 3.2″ (8cm). Female 4.8″ (12cm). When I was writing a profile of this species for another site, I came across reliable reports of females sometimes even attaining close to 6 inches. Of course, fish have to be kept in adequate conditions (hard water and largish tanks) to attain the normal sizes like this.

It would be advisable to return the mollies before they succumb (we still don't know the GH which is crucial) given the tank (10g or 20g) will not accommodate them regardless of GH.
Hi, what is SF? Hmm. Seems like the petstore led me astray when I purchased the Molly...
 
Byron know his stuff and there must be a breed if molly that will grow that large. Most mollies max out 2.5” though. I would encourage you to try Safe Start +. It did help if used correctly. You can’t help se Seachem Prime for your water conditioner for at last 24 hours after using it or the Prime will eat up the bottled bacteria.
I should be almost cycled so I don't think there's a need to add Safe Start + at this point. Although I did use I think 10ml initially when I first started this cycle.
 

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