Tank maintenance to keep it healthy?

Pompeydave

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I've been keeping fish on and off for 30 years and have never successfully been able to stop my plants quickly being covered with either brown or blue/green algae, and rotting away. I live in a hard, alkaline water area, the tank temp is about 25 centigrade. The tank is a couple of feet from a window that lets a lot of natural light in, but virtually no direct sunlight. Artificial lighting is from a truelight tube (don't know the wattage offhand) which is on from 17:00 to midnight (7 hours a day). Filtration is via an external Eheim containing a mix of ehifix substrata and the blue and black circular pads that sit on top. Water is not changed that often, only about 30% every month and the tank is well stocked. Any loose detritus is syphoned out as part of the water change. The filter is cleaned about once every three months. My question is: is there anything I can do to enable me to have a tank with static or minimal plant growth and with little or no algae buildup, on a 1 hour a month maintenance programme? I work away from home and basically, time is my enemy. I'm able to do a lot of work in one stint, but only about once a month. I'll consider any equipment changes, and any tank setup techniques. Any idea's? Thanks in advance....
 
I think your asking for the impossible with live plants.

As far as I've learned algae is the direct result of too much of something. Wether it be nutrients, light, nitrate, waste etc.

The ways I've been taught to combate algae in my planted tanks is:
1. Lots and lots of water changes.
2. Stuff it full of plants to outcompete the algae.

I've found that this does work, as well as adding C02 has helped, but then my plants grow like crazy.

Since you don't have the time to prune, do frequent water changes, etc. I think that this problem will not go away. Why not just go for realistic looking fake plants? They don't need any special care :p
 
Pompeydave:

Since your tank is getting a lot of natural daylight throughout the day, I would recommend you reduce the duration of artificial lights.

I would also suggest you get a lot of fast growing plants such as hornwort, vallis etc. to compete with the algae.

Get some algae eaters like shrimp, Otos, SAEs, etc. to help you out.

If you cannot change water often, the other alternative is to use a higher capacity filtration unit. Also consider using filter floss as part of your media.

Good luck.
 
From the link posted up by igg01 (thanks iggy):

"Low Light Low Tech Tanks


Low light low tech planted tanks are ideally suited for beginners or those hobbyists who would rather not spend lots of time maintaining their tanks. Growth is slow and for the most part when the tank is "balanced" the aquascape remains static for long periods of time, unlike the High light high tech tank that changes from week to week with lots of nutrient additions and pruning of rapid growth.

Low tech tanks are generally meant as tanks with low light and no CO2 injection. To create a successful low tech tank there are some items that from my experiences have been critical for success.

Begin with 1 to 2 watts per gallon of linear normal output fluorescent lighting. This usually equates to two lamps (Bulbs). You don't need to purchase expensive aquaria specific bulbs, just choose bulbs with a color rating between 5000K and 10000K, my preference is to mix 6500K and 9325K bulbs when ever possible. Next, choose a "rich" substrate. Plain gravel is a poor choice in my experience. You can use plain gravel but mix in a few handfuls of ground peat and some laterite. Laterite is an iron rich clay substrate that can be purchased from your local fish store or online. Other combinations of substrate materials can be used also but always add the peat in addition to the sand, Flourite, or other material. Ideally if you have an already established tank adding some mulm from that tanks substrate really helps a new tank. Substrate depth should be 3-5 inches deep. Make sure you locate the peat and laterite in the bottom 1/3 of the substrate.

Use any style filter even bio-wheel filters are fine since we aren’t trying to inject CO2. Bio-wheel’s won’t cause a loss of CO2 in a non injected tank. Don’t use undergravel filters though. Plant very heavily right from the start making 75% of the plants fast growing stem plants. Adding some floating hornwort or similar is also very beneficial at the start, just limit the surface coverage to 20%. Stock with small fish and a low number for the first 3-4 months, but always try to keep a low fish load in a low tech planted tank. It’s a good idea to have an algae cleanup crew consisting of any one or a combination of the following; Siamese Algae Eater (SAE), Amano or Cherry Shrimp, Otocinclus (Otos catfish), American Flag or Florida Flag Fish, and Rosey Barbs.

Here’s the part that makes most people cringe. Leave it alone. No water changes, no fertilizer. Only add tap water weekly or as needed to top off the tank due to evaporation. If your plants show signs of nutrient deficiencies such as yellow leaves or holes in the leaves you can add a Comprehensive fertilizer such as Flourish or Tropica Master Grow once a week until improvement is noticed then only add it once a month thereafter. Limit water changes to times immediately after you’ve uprooted plants or done a major pruning. Personally I change water in my low tech tanks about once every 3-4 month at pruning/replanting time.

If you can leave the tank alone it will not disappoint you. The more you dabble with this type tank the more likely you’ll upset the balance and algal problems will appear. If this approach seems too tame and you desire more involvement then you should consider the high light CO2 injected tank."

Looks great and could be the solution I'm looking for, but one thing is a problem- where it says:

"just choose bulbs with a color rating between 5000K and 10000K, my preference is to mix 6500K and 9325K bulbs when ever possible."

Where can I get hold of 9325k bulbs I (assume this means flourescant tubes) in the UK? I can't find them anywhere at that rating.

It also says don't use undergravel filters, yet my mail order plant supplier (who has a good reputation) says to use an external filter coupled to a reverse flow undergravel filter, and that anything stating that u/g filters aren't a good idea is out of date. Any idea's as I'm confused....??? Also, what does this setup look like? Is it the output pipe from the external filter pushed down one of the riser tubes of the u/g filter?
 
Pompeydave said:
"just choose bulbs with a color rating between 5000K and 10000K, my preference is to mix 6500K and 9325K bulbs when ever possible."

Where can I get hold of 9325k bulbs I (assume this means flourescant tubes) in the UK? I can't find them anywhere at that rating.

It also says don't use undergravel filters, yet my mail order plant supplier (who has a good reputation) says to use an external filter coupled to a reverse flow undergravel filter, and that anything stating that u/g filters aren't a good idea is out of date.

I'm not sure where you will get hold of a 9325k bulb. However, Steve Hampton says in the article that is his preference, so I assume it isn't critical as long as you have bulbs within 5000k-10000k range.

Regarding not using undergravel filters.......... if you click on the undergravel filters link at the top of the same page, he gives his explanation as to why they are not a good idea in a planted tank.

Good luck!
 
Don't know this is particually helpful, but I'm told Bristlenose Plecs will clean algae from plant leaves without touching the plant...

Nik
 
pompeydave:

There is too much controversy surrounding UGF & RUGF. You might consider using under gravel heating coils to achieve a similar effect.
 
Also if you only want to do waterchanges once a month os 50% or less I would not recomend more than a total of 2inch of fish for every 10G. so in a 55g low tech, it would be no more than 4 SAE and some shrimps.
 

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