Tank and stock question

[Byron]

I concur with everything essjay posted.

If no live plants are intended, then do a fishless cycle.

As for the species, you have soft to very soft water, so avoid livebearers, they will only slowly weaken and die in soft water. Barbs are very active, some are feisty to the point of fin nipping.

Byron.

 

[Barneykirk3]

Hi

Thanks for the advice, had sort of made mind up to do fishless cycle and this has just confirmed it. Going to set up tank tomorrow but might not have ammonia by then. Should I test water tomorrow even before adding ammonia if I cant do it? What should I be testing for? Other question I have is how long should I have lighting on, my book says 10 to 12 hours a day.

Thanks

 

[Byron]

Hi

Thanks for the advice, had sort of made mind up to do fishless cycle and this has just confirmed it. Going to set up tank tomorrow but might not have ammonia by then. Should I test water tomorrow even before adding ammonia if I cant do it? What should I be testing for? Other question I have is how long should I have lighting on, my book says 10 to 12 hours a day.

Thanks

There is no benefit in water tests until you add whatever form of ammonia to start the cycle. I believe the article essjay linked will explain the tests during the cycling.

On the lighting, with plants one has to be more selective, both to provide adequate light intensity and duration for the plants, but not over to encourage algae which can smother plant leaves. Light drives photosynthesis, which is how plants grow. But there are no live plants intended here, so it is a case of light for the fish. And this is much more important than many realize.

Fish are directly affected by light; it drives their circadian rhythm (as it does in all animals and plants) so you want it to be consistent (duration). A timer is the best way to achieve this; the light then comes on and goes off at the same time every day, which replicates the natural world in the tropics. This period of artificial "day" can be any time you want, so most set it to coincide with the time they are normally home to enjoy the aquarium. Just make sure there is a decent period of total and complete darkness, meaning no ambient room light, to provide several hours of "night" so the fish will not be stressed.

The forest fish we maintain in aquaria are generally from fairly dimly lit waters, many never seeing direct sunlight or even moonlight. As the fish's eyes and every cell on their body are very sensitive to light, it should always be no brighter than necessary.

The spectrum is also important, as it can alter the appearance of fish and decor in the aquarium. Without plants this is largely a matter of personal taste of the aquarist. But we must still keep in mind that this light is affecting the fish, so spectrum does have some impact.

Byron.

 

[Essjay]

However since you won't have any live plants, during cycling leave the light off

When you have fish, listen to Byron.

 

[Barneykirk3]

However since you won't have any live plants, during cycling leave the light off

When you have fish, listen to Byron.

That's funny I was going to ask did I need light on.

 

[Barneykirk3]

Hi

Just another quick question, has anyone used something called super naturals substrate? Anything i need yo know about it?

 

[Byron]

Hi

Just another quick question, has anyone used something called super naturals substrate? Anything i need yo know about it?

I assume you are referring to these:
http://caribsea.com/caribsea_super-naturals.html

Substrate is another topic. First question is, what fish species, as some have very specific needs when it comes to substrate. Tetras won't fuss, but with tetras we usually find cories or similar catfish, and this does matter. Sand is your only option for a natural (to the fish) substrate (mud would be the other natural, but not many of us want that ).

Next is colour. Avoid white, as this is not natural to the fish and does cause stress.

So with that in mind, of the ones pictured in the above link, only Tahitian Moon and River of Doubt would seem appropriate. But that brings us to cost, and these are expensive.

Many of us here, including myself, use play sand. It comes in a dark tone, usually grey based or buff based, and is very natural under water. It is refined to remove all roughness, so fish safe. Plants grow very well in it. Add to all those benefits the minimal cost, and you can't beat it.

I had a black sand in one tank for two years, but it looked more grey under the water and lighting, and every little bit of detritus stuck out, something I never see with my play sand which now covers the substrate in all 8 tanks.

Byron.

 

[Barneykirk3]

Hi

I got the Tahitian Moon one, as was suggested a dark colour was better. Was more expensive than other stuff but looked really nice stuff.