Tail Rot?

[Lisbeth Oden]

OK I have a 29 gallon tank. I have added five heaping tablespoons of aquarium salt. I can add more just wanted to start slowly.


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[Lisbeth Oden]

Good morning

Colin and all - sadly that fish didn’t make it And I think it also got ich in the end and I may see 1 spot of it on a couple of my guppy babies.

Not sure what I’m doing wrong in this tank. I’ve always been very successful with tanks in the past. The fish I started it with have been struggling since day one. Now I’ve lost all the but one of original guppies but she, the 4 baby guppies, new Pleco and 3 new Cories seem mostly happy, at least judging by how much they are swimming about and looking for food.

Here is a current test stop. Nitrites are good. Water is acidic but not sure how guppies like it.

I added ½ the salt you recommended and meant to add more yesterday but forgot.

So my questions for you this morning are:

- what is the best temperature. It’s currently 72*

- should I keep doing water changes and if so how much/often

- if I change water should I add salt again? If so how much?

- I’m using Artimiss microbe lift. Are you familiar with that product? They said it was safe with my 1 Pleco & 3 Cories. I know it’s for bacteria but the fin rot was my biggest concern. But now with the ich I need to manage parasites. Ugh

- light on or off

- feed normally or not? They all seem hungry.

Many thanks


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[Colin_T]

The guppy that lost its tail had a bacterial infection.

All livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies) need a pH above 7.0.

24C or 76F is ideal for most tropical fish.

I have not heard of or used Artimiss microbe lift. I googled it but there is no information about what is in it. I just emailed the company but doubt they will tell me.

Right now I would just do a big water change and gravel clean the substrate each day for a week. That will dilute any disease organisms in the water and will hopefully prevent any more fish from getting sick.

Don't worry about adding any more salt.

I don't use the paper test strips so if you post test results, post the colour chart with the rests so we can compare them.

 

[Lisbeth Oden]

Ok - thanks.

Should I worry about what looks like ich on the babies?

I will balance the PH and raise the temperature.

Big water change - 75%?

When I replace the water, do I add any salt to it?

The test strip key was in an earlier post in this thread so I didn’t repost but have done so now.

Thanks

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[seangee]

What do YOU believe the hardness value is on the strip?
Its almost impossible for us to get an accurate reading based on 2 photographs on a computer screen. Check after exactly one minute (if that's what the instructions say) and compare the strip to the sample chart in daylight or under a white LED light.

Just to give an indication of how difficult this is based on your earlier pic I felt your water was fine for guppies. Based on the most recent pic I would not suggest you keep guppies. FWIW I would not be trying to adjust the pH. Fish need it to be stable (i.e. constant).

 

[Colin_T]

Should I worry about what looks like ich on the babies?

Post a picture of the babies with the spots.

​

Big water change - 75%?

Yes, 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate for a week to dilute any disease organisms in the water.

​

When I replace the water, do I add any salt to it?

No, don't bother adding any more salt.

 

[Lisbeth Oden]

What do YOU believe the hardness value is on the strip?
Its almost impossible for us to get an accurate reading based on 2 photographs on a computer screen. Check after exactly one minute (if that's what the instructions say) and compare the strip to the sample chart in daylight or under a white LED light.

Just to give an indication of how difficult this is based on your earlier pic I felt your water was fine for guppies. Based on the most recent pic I would not suggest you keep guppies. FWIW I would not be trying to adjust the pH. Fish need it to be stable (i.e. constant).

Thank you. Water is on the soft side. I get my water from one of those water dispensers at the market because it would take too long to filter the water for all these water changes. The first test strip photo was water that had been adjusted. The second had not. I will get better at adjusting the pH before I add the new water to the tank so it stays more consistent.

What is the best pH for live bearers?

What temperature do they like best? I’ve been keeping it closer to 72* but have read it should be warmer, especially when fighting off disease?

Thanks


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