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Here is the portion of the order acknowledgment from CorysRUs regarding acclimating new fish:
For those who have ordered livestock please read the following:
We do not feed any of our fish we are shipping the day before or day of shipping. This helps to ensure that they will not have an issue and pollute their shipping water. We also use conditioned water and we add Ship Right which is a complete water conditioner and fish calmer for long distance shipping of tropical fish. Also guards against fish diseases, while the calming additive reduces stress and fighting among fish. Fish arrive in the highest quality and best overall health.
All of our fish are fed live blackworms daily in the AM and then one of the following in the PM: frozen tubifex, frozen dapnhia, frozen spirulina enhanced brine shrimp, freeze dried shrimp powder, freeze dried salmon roe, freeze dried earthworms, high quality flake food pre-moistened in water, Hikari Tropical Sinking Wafers which are specifically developed for Corydoras catfish and other bottom feeders after extensive research into their nutritional requirements and eating habits, and most often we use Boyd's Vita Diet 1.0mm crumble which is the only fish food fortified with Vita-chem. For pygmy corydoras we also feed Hikari Micro Wafers. We go to great lengths being diverse in our feedings not only to benefit the fish but also their future owners.
We have a lot of people write us and tell us their new arrivals will not eat. Don't fret, they can survive up to 7 days without eating. Remember, they are having to get accustomed to new surroundings, new water chemistry, new feeding schedule and all that stresses them out. Eventually they will usually come around and decide they have to eat what they are fed or go hungry.
When you receive the box open it as soon as possible in a dim lit room. The fish have been in a enclosed dark area for all the time they have been traveling sudden light causes unneeded stress. Allow the bags to float for 10 to 20 minutes to allow temperatures to slowly equalize (longer if necessary). Open the fish bags only when you are ready to immediately put them into your aquarium. DO NOT put any water from your aquariums into the bags or vice-versa! Avoid netting as much as possible. Gently pour off most of the water from the bag through a net. Then release the fish from the bag directly into the aquarium. Another good method uses a plastic container with sieve holes in the bottom (a smooth plastic spaghetti strainer with small holes works great). Gently scoop or release the fish into the container, drain the water and place the fish immediately into the aquarium. Large specimens can often be simply hand placed into the aquarium. If these methods are not applicable, place a large net over the top of a clean container with enough water to cover approximately a third of the bottom of the net. Open the bag and carefully pour some of the fish into the net and immediately place them directly into the aquarium. Try to avoid a net full of fish as they will ball up in the net, and the ones underneath can be damaged from compression and friction. Remember that water from the bag may react with the water from the aquarium, and could be very harmful. Never mix bag and aquarium water! That evening feed a very small meal and over the next few days slowly up the feed.
Sometimes during shipping, fish lie at the bottom of the bag and appear dead. "Playing opossum" is a common animal stress behavior. Carbon dioxide also acts to tranquilize the fish. Even if the fish look like they are mostly dead, put them into an aquarium as outlined above. Leave the aquarium lights off to further reduce stress, and leave them alone. You will be amazed how clean water and stress reduction help !
Like other animals, fish produce carbon dioxide as they breathe. When carbon dioxide is dissolved in water, an acid is formed, lowering the pH of the water just like in a carbonated beverage. Fish also produce ammonia, which can be very damaging. Ammonia is present in water as NH3 or as NH4+, or as a combination of these forms. The toxic form of ammonia is NH3. The proportion of NH3 versus NH4+ is dependent on pH. The lower the pH, the lower the amount of NH3, and the greater the proportion of the less damaging NH4+. In the wild, freshwater fish naturally experience wide changes in pH.
One of the reasons fish are able to be shipped long distances in closed bags is because the pH in the shipping water drops, making the ammonia non-toxic. The carbon dioxide acts as a tranquilizer. The moment the bag is opened, and exposed to the outside air, carbon dioxide escapes, the pH of the water immediately begins to rise, and ammonia becomes deadly. Fish tissue damage will then occur very quickly. NEVER add water from a shipping bag into your aquarium, as you do not want all that harmful ammonia in your aquarium. NEVER add water from your aquarium into the shipping bag. Acclimate the temperature by floating the bag in the aquarium water, and then immediately open the bag and release the fish into the aquarium, minimizing the introduction of the bag water.
It is very normal for new arrivals not to have any color for up to 48 hours and to be scared or lethargic. Within 48-72 hours they should be colored up, however, they can still be a bit nervous of their new surroundings.
I have your babies in there separate tank ready to be bagged in a few hours. I also picked up the styrofoam for the box liner. I'm so excited!
I can't wait to see them. 
Also they don't like to give live animals to certain carriers. The extra day lets them pick which carrier to give the package to. 
(They know they hire idiots... 
)
? something not live animals 
