Storing Killifish Eggs

Hi Aa,
I'm liking those Peruvian Longfins. even though they have a fairly long incubation time
What are the hatching dates on the vials/bags.
I would tend to store them in a dark warm place,(airing cupboard)or specialist heated cupboard (like my live-food larder)
at a temperature of around 20'C - 22'C (68-72'F)
Keep them in a insulated envelope like a padded jiffy bag. Keep checking the peat and dont let it dry out, The peat should have a consistency of rolling tobacco and remain in a humid environment.
Good luck with these.
Have you kept/bred killis before
Regards
C
 
Hi Big C

Yes have had some Nothos such as caprivi, guentheri, Nematolebias whitei (I think that is the correct name still) and Fp gardneri and spoorenbergi. Also was wondering what your input is on the use of rainwater for killies is as I work on a game reserve in South Africa and our tap water comes from a borehole and has a high mineral content to it. My only other option is rainwater tanks. Am interested in that live food larder you mentioned what setup have you got going there?

Luke
 
Hi Luke,

The image below shows my live food cupboard in its present state. (500mm wall cupboard local hardware's store's finest) Home to gazillions of minute and microscopic critters. It is constantly evolving and spewing over into other cupboards and heated aquaria.

SDC12312.jpg


Basically it all circles around the light bulb, this is utilised for heating and illumination purposes.
In that set up I have lab cultured Paramoecium, Fruitfly, Vinegar eel, Grindalworm, Bananaworm, Microworm, the ability to hatch Brine-shrimp and Green Water (micro algae)production to feed my Daphnia and Monia cultures.
The only other thing that is added are airlines.

I specifically use rainwater all the time and mix it with Reverse Osmosis to the required specs. I now have this down to a fine art. The only thing I may do on occasion is to add a chemical buffer to reduce the pH. For most of my softwater species I have a TDS of around 19 (just over 1 dKH) and a pH of around 5.8, Temps are species dependant.

Good to see you are still keeping up with the latest nomenclature, I still term most of the South American annuals as Cynolebias. Good job most of the folks in my circles still recognise the old genus name. LOL
Regards
C
 
Wow it sounds like an intire microscopic zoo you got going there. In terms of setting those various cultures up any good websites for how to intructions. I mentioned the water issue as I mentioned it to Tyrone and he recommends epsom salts and some other stuff to be added. I am assuming it is because Nothobranchius need it. Thanks again for the input, you have quite a setup.

Luke

Hi Luke,

The image below shows my live food cupboard in its present state. (500mm wall cupboard local hardware's store's finest) Home to gazillions of minute and microscopic critters. It is constantly evolving and spewing over into other cupboards and heated aquaria.

SDC12312.jpg


Basically it all circles around the light bulb, this is utilised for heating and illumination purposes.
In that set up I have lab cultured Paramoecium, Fruitfly, Vinegar eel, Grindalworm, Bananaworm, Microworm, the ability to hatch Brine-shrimp and Green Water (micro algae)production to feed my Daphnia and Monia cultures.
The only other thing that is added are airlines.

I specifically use rainwater all the time and mix it with Reverse Osmosis to the required specs. I now have this down to a fine art. The only thing I may do on occasion is to add a chemical buffer to reduce the pH. For most of my softwater species I have a TDS of around 19 (just over 1 dKH) and a pH of around 5.8, Temps are species dependant.

Good to see you are still keeping up with the latest nomenclature, I still term most of the South American annuals as Cynolebias. Good job most of the folks in my circles still recognise the old genus name. LOL
Regards
C
 

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