Stocking Suggestions For My Future Tank

[Byron]

Yeah, the initial list is just some fish that I'm currently interested in so they're not all meant for coexistence necessarily. Though I did read recently that green barbs are non-aggressive and are good for communities; is this wrong? I know regular tiger barbs are more aggressive, I just assumed from that that the greens are more tame. But I am thinking that I would quite like a one species tank - the idea of a big school of fish really appeals to me. Though I am thinking that I would like some cory species too, panda or pygmy perhaps, and maybe some otos.

 
I have not personally kept the green form of the Tiger Barb, but I would seriously doubt that a variant will be significantly different than the species from which it was developed with respect to inherent behaviours.  If you can provide the reference where you read this, I may be able to check into it, depending.
 
Corys might or might not manage with Tiger Barbs, it depends upon the species, the individual Tigers, and the tank size.  I would certainly not include the pygmy cory.  The panda need more current than most other corys, and cooler, but this would not bother the barbs.
 
Byron.

 

[NeonSagaris]

Here's the sourse: http/www.keepingtropicalfish.co.uk/fish-database/green-tiger-barb/
 
Not sure if it's reliable, but that's where the info came from.

 

[Far_King]

I have heard that Gold Barbs can be less aggressive than other Barbs, but I've never kept them myself to be able to accurately advise.  It's not something I'd chance myself without having the option to move either the Barbs or the fish they shared a community with to another tank.

 

[Essjay]

To add more to Far King's post, despite the title of the article in the link, these fish are not tiger barbs but a variant of golden barb, a different species from tigers. The photo in the link looks a bit like a green tiger barb but all the information they give is for golden barbs.
Golden barbs (and green golden barbs) are indeed a lot less aggressive than tiger barbs.

 

[NeonSagaris]

So the green barbs I'm looking at are in fact non-aggressive? That's good to know!
 
I am very interested in the idea now of having a large school of green barbs (13 or around about) with cories and otos. Perhaps I could even combine barbs, maybe greens and golden barbs together? I know they school together which would look pretty stunning.

 

[Far_King]

I think the term is less aggressive rather than non-aggressive.

 

[Zante]

Yeah, it's like saying that a chocolate cake is less fattening than another chocolate cake

 

[NeonSagaris]

Haha, alright, I see.
 
But would a barb combo like that work then? Plus cories and otos?

 

[Far_King]

Ottos are pretty small and timid.  I don't think barbs would make good tank mates.
 
What is your reasoning behind ottos and cories?  Just like them or want them to do a job?

 

[FishNChimps]

If you want lower pH water, it's worth seeing if your LFS sells RO water. It might be more economically viable (I pay roughly $7 equivalent for 25 litres) than your own RO.
 
Also, I think it a fair generalisation to assume that the majority of those involved in this hobby always eventually want a bigger aquarium. So buy the largest one you can afford.

 

[NeonSagaris]

I've always loved otos, always. Just something I've always been into. And with cories, I just like the idea of giving the bottom of the tank some life, and I usually look to cories for that. I think pygmies are my favourite, but I guess the barbs definitely wouldn't be good with those. Maybe I should just stick to the tetras and rasboras for now then which is no problem.
 
And I guess the RO water is something to look into, it's just it will be a big commitment having to go back and forth from the LFS (which I think will be about 25 mins away) every other week. But again, something to think about.

 

[Zante]

Regarding the RO filter, consider that I have one for my discus tank (400l) and my reef (550l + 90l).
I have a 200gpd unit, and it's running fairly often.
 
RO water, though, is not to be used only for aquariums, and I mean proper RO, not a filter that uses the same principle, but doesn't strip the water of all minerals.
For example I use it in brewing, where soft water means a better end product.
You could use it to wash your car which would mean no mineral residue on the bodywork.
 
I'm sure there are more uses I can't think of right now.

 

[NeonSagaris]

I don't know much about 'em - do you install it into the plumbing or tank or is it a separate device?

 

[Byron]

As essjay noted, the species in the linked article is not the green Tiger Barb but the Gold Barb, though the photo is a Green Tiger Barb.  This only poiints out the need for thorough research; not everyone who sets up a website is necessarily reliable.
 
If you are getting the Green Tiger Barb, which species is now resolved as being Puntigrus tetrazona, it needs a group of minimum 8 (10-12 would be better), in a minimum tank with base dimension of 80cm/30 inches length.  No other upper species.  If upper species are intended, the tank must be considerably larger.
 
The so-called Gold Barb is not a natural fish but a man-made variety of the wild somewhat greenish fish, now resolved to be Barbodes semifasciolatus.  This fish needs an aquarium at least 90cm/36 inches in length.  It is best in a group of eight minimum.  It is considerably more peaceful than the Tiger, but tankmates should still be carefully selected.  All barbs are fairly active swimmers, so length is more important than height whatever the volume.  And being active, they do not do well with sedate fish such as gourami, cichlids, rasbora, etc. though tank size can impact this a bit.
 
It is best to know pretty much what species (all of them) you intend having in the aquarium before acquiring the tank; this way you will be certain of acquiring the best aquarium for the fish to provide a better environment, which means less stressed and thus healthier fish.
 

I think I'd also put quite a bit of bogwood in there to also help bring down and stabilise pH. The little things that help.
 

 
I missed this comment previously, sorry.  The initial GH/KH will determine what if any pH lowering will occur, and with the high GH/KH mentioned here, all the wood in the forest will not have much effect.  Without first reducing the GH/KH you will not change the pH.
 
 
Byron.

 

[Zante]

I don't know much about 'em - do you install it into the plumbing or tank or is it a separate device?

 
You plumb it with your main water source, and you can have the outlet either in a container where you store it until you need it, or straight into the tank, depending on how much you use, the level of automation, the capacity of your filter, and so on.
 
The filter also wastes a lot of water. You might want to find an alternative use for the reject water of your filter, such as watering the garden for example.