They are really lovely, especially the red/scarlet, are they okay planted in sand?I really like Alternanthera Reineckii Red/Scarlet. It melted the first time I put it in. But I'm trying again now that I'm using Seachem Flourish Comp & Root Tabs. I've also cut the shoots to make sure they're well below the water surface. It gives a lovely shimmering red/pink shade & is wispy & flows nicely. Really nice contrast to the green. I also like the lighter shade Green of my Water Wisteria & that's growing very well. And some floating plants to create some shade.
I'll leave the fish & cycle advice to the pros
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Stocking ideas for 200L tank.
- Thread starter xxamyxx85
- Start date
I thought I read somewhere that adding ammonia with plants in is not a good idea? Is that wrong info?I'm not a cycling pro, so going to tag @Ch4rlie in on this since he knows how to cycle from scratch well
From what I understand though, you'd still cycle as if you were starting from nothing, and using ammonia is the best way to do it so that you can fully stock your tank once the cycle is ready, as in here - https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
But that it will go a lot faster, since you've seeded the tank with the sponges from your established tank.
Yeah I think sand will be better. My gravel isn't very deep but I'm expected a new bigger tank next week so will use sand in this and transfer some of the plants.
Thank you so much, I will get googling! Are all plants fine to plant in sand and from the ones mentioned are there also types that go in the water column on rocks etc? Sorry I really know nothing about aquarium plants.
Ah I didn't know you were adding plants right away. Wait for @Ch4rlie to weigh in then, I don't know, better to listen to charlie or essay about cycling!
First off, well done on researching and asking everyone for advice on how to set up and stock your 200l tank, so many folks just jump in head first and make mistakes right off the bat, good going
Now first, set up your tank exactly how you would like it, lots of live plants is excellent as this brings in so many benefits to the tank. Start off with easy to care for plants as other have already mentioned as well as floating plants if you wish to do so.
Then you need to cycle your tank, there are in fact several ways of doing this.
You mentioned you have some spare sponge media in your established betta tank, if this is correct then this is a nice addition to seed your tank and filter with, if not, then you can purchase a bottle Tetra Safe Start or Dr Tim's One and Only Nitrifying Bacteria (both easily obtained online), both of those products have the correct bacterias needed to get the cycle off to a good start.
If you are unable to get bottles of bacterias or use your sponge media, then not to worry at all, your plants for a start will bring in some bacteria to start you off, not as much but its fine, just takes a little longer to get these bacteria to grow a large enough colony to start making an impact on ammonia and eventually nitrite.
Ammonia dosages is essential for cycling a tank, you can get some online such as Dr Tim's Ammonium Chloride which is fine to use for cycling aquariums and will not impact on plants. I've used ammonia on cycling tanks many times and the plants have always been fine.
Do be sure to follow the Fishless Cycle Article exactly -
Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!
Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...
www.fishforums.net
And also do note that you must dose ammonia 3ppm, no more than this as anything over 5ppm ammonia has a tendacy to crash or stall the cycling process, then you would need to start the cycle all over again by doing a 100% water change, so do be careful with dosages as it's so easy to make a mistake and overdose, I've done this myself!
You can use the Forum calculator to work out exactly how much ammonia you need for your tank, the Fishless Cycle Ammonia Required dosage calculator is at the bottom of the page.
Again, read and follow that article on Fishless Cycling that both I and AdoraBelle have linked, I would print it out actually then you can read while you do the dosing or while next to tank etc, I found it much easier this way.
I'm not a cycling pro, so going to tag @Ch4rlie in on this since he knows how to cycle from scratch well
From what I understand though, you'd still cycle as if you were starting from nothing, and using ammonia is the best way to do it so that you can fully stock your tank once the cycle is ready, as in here - https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
But that it will go a lot faster, since you've seeded the tank with the sponges from your established tank.
Cycling pro!! hah
Nope, just done a few of these cycles is all and have the general idea on how to do a cycle, much harder to explain to other folks how to do the whole process. Hence why we have a fishless cycle article.
That article is quite hard to follow at first, but reading it again and again helps to build up an idea of what you need to do, a lot of information to take in at first, but once you start and within a week or two, it kinda clicks and aha, now I understand a bit more.
Took me and TTA a long time to write up those articles as well as the Fish in Cycle articles as well.
Well, we did the best we could. Pics a bit dated now as that was written years ago but it has served its purpose very well.
There is one other method of cycling the tank and that's by having very densely fast growing plants in the tank and watching the tank parameters closely and doing water changes when required, a number of members have used this method but I have never done this personally so am not the best to ask about this method.
Wow thank you so much for all this info, it’s exactly what I was after! I will definitely be printing this all off. I can’t wait to get started with it, thanks again.First off, well done on researching and asking everyone for advice on how to set up and stock your 200l tank, so many folks just jump in head first and make mistakes right off the bat, good going
Now first, set up your tank exactly how you would like it, lots of live plants is excellent as this brings in so many benefits to the tank. Start off with easy to care for plants as other have already mentioned as well as floating plants if you wish to do so.
Then you need to cycle your tank, there are in fact several ways of doing this.
You mentioned you have some spare sponge media in your established betta tank, if this is correct then this is a nice addition to seed your tank and filter with, if not, then you can purchase a bottle Tetra Safe Start or Dr Tim's One and Only Nitrifying Bacteria (both easily obtained online), both of those products have the correct bacterias needed to get the cycle off to a good start.
View attachment 115681 View attachment 115679
If you are unable to get bottles of bacterias or use your sponge media, then not to worry at all, your plants for a start will bring in some bacteria to start you off, not as much but its fine, just takes a little longer to get these bacteria to grow a large enough colony to start making an impact on ammonia and eventually nitrite.
Ammonia dosages is essential for cycling a tank, you can get some online such as Dr Tim's Ammonium Chloride which is fine to use for cycling aquariums and will not impact on plants. I've used ammonia on cycling tanks many times and the plants have always been fine.
View attachment 115682
Do be sure to follow the Fishless Cycle Article exactly -
Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!
Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...
And also do note that you must dose ammonia 3ppm, no more than this as anything over 5ppm ammonia has a tendacy to crash or stall the cycling process, then you would need to start the cycle all over again by doing a 100% water change, so do be careful with dosages as it's so easy to make a mistake and overdose, I've done this myself!
You can use the Forum calculator to work out exactly how much ammonia you need for your tank, the Fishless Cycle Ammonia Required dosage calculator is at the bottom of the page.
Again, read and follow that article on Fishless Cycling that both I and AdoraBelle have linked, I would print it out actually then you can read while you do the dosing or while next to tank etc, I found it much easier this way.
Cycling pro!! hah
Nope, just done a few of these cycles is all and have the general idea on how to do a cycle, much harder to explain to other folks how to do the whole process. Hence why we have a fishless cycle article.
That article is quite hard to follow at first, but reading it again and again helps to build up an idea of what you need to do, a lot of information to take in at first, but once you start and within a week or two, it kinda clicks and aha, now I understand a bit more.
Took me and TTA a long time to write up those articles as well as the Fish in Cycle articles as well.
Well, we did the best we could. Pics a bit dated now as that was written years ago but it has served its purpose very well.
There is one other method of cycling the tank and that's by having very densely fast growing plants in the tank and watching the tank parameters closely and doing water changes when required, a number of members have used this method but I have never done this personally so am not the best to ask about this method.
Told ya he was a cycling pro, despite his protestations
Honestly amazing, explained so thoroughly and now I have everything all printed in front of me.... full steam ahead lol.Told ya he was a cycling pro, despite his protestations
Of those ive mentioned they are all to be planted in the substrate, and sand is arguably the best substrate for plants. Just dot some root tabs around the roots and replace every couple of months.
Mainly java fern and anubias that are better off being strapped to rocks/wood.
Stem plants are great for propagation as once they're established, you just cut a section off and replant and this will thicken the plant mass.
If you haven't already, check out the Tropica website for a guide and inspiration on plant positioning and requirements.
I think my only advice with plants is that you need a bit of patience. We all have the end result of the 'scape' pictured in our mind's eye, but it can take a while for the growth to get where you'd like this to be. You'll likely endure some algae issues along the way which is all part and parcel of it. Again, try not to change too many things around and let your plants establish themselves and stay patient
Hi again,
so my new tank has two glass shelves, one along the front and one along the back, they are about two inches wide, i am not sure what they are for, could be for lid to rest on. I read that Corydoras jump out of the water, are these glass shelves going to be a problem and if so how do I remove them?.
so my new tank has two glass shelves, one along the front and one along the back, they are about two inches wide, i am not sure what they are for, could be for lid to rest on. I read that Corydoras jump out of the water, are these glass shelves going to be a problem and if so how do I remove them?.
I know the glass shelves you speak of as I’ve had the same tank.
Never really found out why there are there exactly but very useful though.
I used them to put my overhead lighting unit legs on and for holding tank bits and pieces in place.
I would imagine they are there for fitting glass lids or covers on, I considered adding sliding glass lids this but never got round to doing that.
Never found snails, shrimps or fish on these glass shelves so don’t think would be a major issue but guess it depends on what fish species you have, some are more prone to jumping than others.
If you really want to remove the glass shelves, then would suggest with a sharp knife or razor blade and cut into the silicon seal at edge between the tank glass and the shelves and prose the glass shelves off the tank glass itself.
Think would take a little bit of time and effort to go though the seals at both the top and the underside of the shelves as well as the tank side glass, and repeat on the other side of tank as well.
Then once removed the shelves, take the blade and cut off the remaining silicon seal from tank glass and clean off.
Job done, not all that easy I don’t think but certainly doable with time and patience.
Never really found out why there are there exactly but very useful though.
I used them to put my overhead lighting unit legs on and for holding tank bits and pieces in place.
I would imagine they are there for fitting glass lids or covers on, I considered adding sliding glass lids this but never got round to doing that.
Never found snails, shrimps or fish on these glass shelves so don’t think would be a major issue but guess it depends on what fish species you have, some are more prone to jumping than others.
If you really want to remove the glass shelves, then would suggest with a sharp knife or razor blade and cut into the silicon seal at edge between the tank glass and the shelves and prose the glass shelves off the tank glass itself.
Think would take a little bit of time and effort to go though the seals at both the top and the underside of the shelves as well as the tank side glass, and repeat on the other side of tank as well.
Then once removed the shelves, take the blade and cut off the remaining silicon seal from tank glass and clean off.
Job done, not all that easy I don’t think but certainly doable with time and patience.
ClownLurch
Fish Gatherer
I did a silent cycle from everything being box fresh.
Filled tank with Sand, water and plants then turned on lights , heater and filter. Added half the weekly recommended plant food dose of flourish twice a week and a few root tabs for nine iirc plants that Byron mentioned which are fast effective cyclists.
Then basically watched the tv and drank beer until there was extremely visible plant growth.
If I’d taken a photo of it the day I planted it I could’ve been cycled imo a lot quicker but there’s no rush during lockdown especially when I hadn’t a clue what fish were suitable for 19dh. Still only got 4 guppies plus a parolee Guppy who looks like he’s moving to the house on the corners tank.
If I can silent cycle any fool can. It’s the way I’ll be going in future.
Filled tank with Sand, water and plants then turned on lights , heater and filter. Added half the weekly recommended plant food dose of flourish twice a week and a few root tabs for nine iirc plants that Byron mentioned which are fast effective cyclists.
Then basically watched the tv and drank beer until there was extremely visible plant growth.
If I’d taken a photo of it the day I planted it I could’ve been cycled imo a lot quicker but there’s no rush during lockdown especially when I hadn’t a clue what fish were suitable for 19dh. Still only got 4 guppies plus a parolee Guppy who looks like he’s moving to the house on the corners tank.
If I can silent cycle any fool can. It’s the way I’ll be going in future.
The glass shelves are bracer bars to stop the glass bowing outwards under the pressure of water. Some tanks use these, others use a strip of metal or plastic running from front to back over the middle of the tank.
I used to have a Juwel Rio 125 which has a plastic bracer bar attached to the top trim at the front and back of the tank. I noticed that a gap was developing between the lid and the trim front and back in the middle of the tank and when I investigated I discovered that the bracer bar and attached trim had pulled away from the glass and the long sides of the tank were bowing outwards.
Not being confident of my DIY skills, I replaced it with a custom built tank which has the glass shelf bracer bars, and these double up as supports for glass sliding covers. You could use them to hold a condensation tray if one will fit under the lid.
I used to have a Juwel Rio 125 which has a plastic bracer bar attached to the top trim at the front and back of the tank. I noticed that a gap was developing between the lid and the trim front and back in the middle of the tank and when I investigated I discovered that the bracer bar and attached trim had pulled away from the glass and the long sides of the tank were bowing outwards.
Not being confident of my DIY skills, I replaced it with a custom built tank which has the glass shelf bracer bars, and these double up as supports for glass sliding covers. You could use them to hold a condensation tray if one will fit under the lid.
I know exactly what you mean, always have seen these bracer bars are joined from the front of tank glass to the rear of tank glass, sometimes just one and other have two of tank is 4 ft or more.
The ones on the ClearSeal tanks, one glass shelf is along the front tank glass and the other shelf along the rear tank glass, not the entire length of tank glass about 2 inch shorter each side of the length of tank, does not connect to tank side glass btw.
This is the same on the smaller ClearSeal tanks as well, I had a 10 gallon ClearSeal tank and this had the same glass shelves along front and rear tank glass.
So, I may be wrong and actually has dual purpose of being part tank bracing and part shelf for lids/covers.
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