HI there
i am starting a low tech/ low light tank. Could someone give me the low-down of how to do this, because i understand there is a limited plant choice and multiple other thing
thanks
colonel
My signature has a plant list for plants that will do well with lower light levels. All of them should do well with at least 1WPG in a standard tank size (20g or greater). For a smaller aquarium, less than 10g, aim for around 3WPG for lower light levels. For very tiny tanks, like less than 5g, between 4-5WPG is what I consider low-light. I started off densly planted with a lot of stemplants and then gradually swapped them out for plants that were lower maintenance, though contrary to popular belief, Bolbitis is not necessarily lower maintenance.
Substrate: You can either go A. a nutrient-rich substrate or soil and follow Walstad's plan from the Ecology of the Planted aquarium or B. an inert substrate that relies on the occasional dosing or fish poo, or C. A combination of the two. A favorite of mine is 1-3mm gravel with some laterite and then stick root tabs underneath the heavy root feeders (crypts, swords, etc). Very inexpensive and very easy.
CO2: Entirely up to you. I've gone both ways. It is great for the tanks early stages to ward of algae, IMO, but as the tank "matures" (which takes about 6months to a year), you can become relaxed on this, and I've removed it altogether with very little algae. A Nutrafin or DIY mix is more than sufficient for an average-sized tank. If you don't inject, try to opt for pretty good surface agitation and circulation, as gas exchange is better. If you inject, opt for good circulation, but keep surface agitation to a minimum.
Dosing: Again up to you. Some people can't wean themselves from it. I dosed occasionally when the tank wasn't yet stocked to its capacity with fish. As soon as it was stocked, I let the fish take over. I tend to over-filter and over stock. Because I overstock, I need to do more water changes, but I average about 25% once a week.
As the tank continues to age, I find that you can be more lax with CO2, ferts, and general maintenance. I did have a bit of a pH problem when I removed the CO2. It was at 6.6 and is now closer to 7.2 or 7.4, which is quite a leap up, and now my tetras aren't doing as well (I've lost a few) and my angelfish have stopped breeding. My crypts, on the other hand, are doing much better. I will probably have to adapt my livestock in the future, with livebearers being top on my list.
Hope this helps a bit, I'm sure others will be by shortly.
llj
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