Soil Substrate

Ark

Fish Fanatic
Joined
Sep 8, 2007
Messages
123
Reaction score
0
Location
Hanham, Bristol
hi i wondered if i could just put some standard b&q or homebase compost in my planted aquarium underneath a 2inch layer of gravel
its much cheaper then all the substrate on the market

if so
do i have to do anything to the compost
is there any special brand i should buy
do i clean it before i put it it
how much should i use
tyvm in advanced
Ark
 
hi i wondered if i could just put some standard b&q or homebase compost in my planted aquarium underneath a 2inch layer of gravel
its much cheaper then all the substrate on the market

if so
do i have to do anything to the compost
is there any special brand i should buy
do i clean it before i put it it
how much should i use
tyvm in advanced
Ark

I've never known people to use compost. I would assume compost would break down and foul the water. I know the most commonly used soil substrate is ADA Eco Complete or SoilMaster Select.
 
was is successful
Don't just take my word for it, ask George Farmer!

@2.50 per bag, you can't beat it. I use it with garden soil (I dig up, sift and soak for a month), mulm and gravelly sand. Oh and Leonardite for the ultimate substrate. Recipe if you want it!

Andy
 
I tried cactus compost earlier this year, and it was a nightmare. It exploded every where when you planted up, and kept releasing bubbles for weeks.

I found out after I had got rid of it that you should soak the compost for a while to thoroughly saturate it, so you dont get the problems I did. I wish I had know earlier.

Go for it, and tell us how it went!
 
ive decided to go for john innes no2 soil
im going to prepare it by soaking it for 2 weeks continously then boil it for 1 or 2 hours
then cover a 1 inch layer of it with a 2 inch layer of inert fine black gravel
 
2" is too thick IMO. 1" should do. No need to boil the soil - in doing so you'll remove most of the inherent goodness. Soaking period is to leech out any ammonia - so test for this as you go. Use dechlorinated water - change as much of it as you can weekly.

I would:

1) Layer of mulum - scatter in a pinch of bicarbonate of soda (food, yum yum).
2) Scatter a hadful per squ ft area of sphagnum based peat (John Innes).
3) 1/2" layer of Leonardite if you want.
4) 1" layer of pre-soaked soil
5) Scatter in some KNO3
6) 1" layer of coarse (2mm to 3mm grain size) gravel.
7) water to just cover the gravel

Now if you're carpeting do this:
Lay the carpet plant down SO THAT IT IS EMERGENT! (i.e in air, roots in water) - cover & leave for 2 to 3 weeks (topping up the water to just cover the gravel).
Bosh: one insta-carpet, no problems
Plant the other plants and then fill tank. (In fact, plant and grow the other plants emergent as well).

Growing emergent for the initial 2 to 3 week startup phase gives plants one hell of a kick start (because of access to atmospheric CO2) and overcomes the algae at start up problems.

GL

Andy
 
2" is too thick IMO. 1" should do. No need to boil the soil - in doing so you'll remove most of the inherent goodness. Soaking period is to leech out any ammonia - so test for this as you go. Use dechlorinated water - change as much of it as you can weekly.

I would:

1) Layer of mulum - scatter in a pinch of bicarbonate of soda (food, yum yum).
2) Scatter a hadful per squ ft area of sphagnum based peat (John Innes).
3) 1/2" layer of Leonardite if you want.
4) 1" layer of pre-soaked soil
5) Scatter in some KNO3
6) 1" layer of coarse (2mm to 3mm grain size) gravel.
7) water to just cover the gravel

Now if you're carpeting do this:
Lay the carpet plant down SO THAT IT IS EMERGENT! (i.e in air, roots in water) - cover & leave for 2 to 3 weeks (topping up the water to just cover the gravel).
Bosh: one insta-carpet, no problems
Plant the other plants and then fill tank. (In fact, plant and grow the other plants emergent as well).

Growing emergent for the initial 2 to 3 week startup phase gives plants one hell of a kick start (because of access to atmospheric CO2) and overcomes the algae at start up problems.

GL

Andy
thanks for advice i wanted to have a pogostemon helferi and echinodus magdalenensis carpet so should i do that carpet with them before i fill tank with water ..
all my plants are gonna be rosette/crown plants so i may grow them all emergent to begin with. tyvm
Ark
 
Thanks for the recipe, just a few questions.

I don't have any mulm, can I buy it? I might have some in my filter... How do you get it out? Filter the water through a pair of tights or something?

Where do you get leonardite from?

I don't have ready access to soil, can I use top soil? Do you really have to soak it for a month??? Do you have to stir it when you change the water?

Sorry for all the questions!
 
Go and track down tom barrs website im sure he mentions baking the soil if you intend to use it, his sight would be the best place to start that or diana walsteads guide on setting up an "el natural" system which all use soil under gravel.
 
Hi LisaP,

I don't have any mulm, can I buy it?
No, you get it for free...

I might have some in my filter... How do you get it out? Filter the water through a pair of tights or something?
from your filter and substrate. Here's how (copy & paste from my notes, apologies therefore:

Mulm is Nitrifying bacteria along with its carbon based food source, decayed plant material, fish waste detritus, invertebrates, diatoms, other algae, BGA etc. It is loaded with organic matter, bacteria and fungi, as well as a source of food for them. It can therefore be considered as active living thing and adds precisely what's missing from an established tank to a new one.

Deep Vacuum a substrate, then take your filter and clean / squezze that in the same old tank water you vac'd out, let the water settle in the bucket, the dirt on the bottom? That's Mulm. The dirt in the filter sponge is Mulm. This is the wet "dirt" left on the bottom of a water change bucket after vacuuming the gravel. You wait about 2-5 minutes and pour off the clear water, save the wet soupy stuff left over and add this to the bottom of a new tank setup.

Adding Mulm to the substrate will also help to prevent new tank syndrome – this goes for planted and non-planted tanks.


Where do you get leonardite from?
UK Supplier, available as Earthworks ‘Soil Builder Granules’:
http://www.earthworksgardenproducts.co.uk/product_desc.htm
(thanks SuperColey1).

I don't have ready access to soil, can I use top soil? Do you really have to soak it for a month???
I suppose. Well, I did, but soak it until you see no ammonia & nitrite in the water really...

Do you have to stir it when you change the water?
NO. Try to disturb it as little as possible, then remove as much water, then add water and then stir it up.

Sorry for all the questions!
Tha's OK.

Andy
 

Most reactions

Back
Top