still pushing for those plants
hes improving! the fungus like thing is starting to deterioate! hes alot more active and he tries to eat bloodworms now. when i run out of betta water, (which will be tomorrow) ill Have to got to the lfs and buy more water so i can try to get a plant or two.
about the fry, your saying a live plant will benefit them?. i had a plastic one before, but so many git stuck and yea. im afraid to interoduce anything now because any little change affects them. (i diddn't feed the normal amount one of the three times i feed them and they began to get all lethargic and just lie around) anything bothers them
ill keep up with updates
ny the way, i dont have a light on the tank. ( im mean attached to it.) i use window light almost all day ( the sun doesnt stop shining for awhile) when the sun doesnt shine. i have a lamp on thats abotu 4 inches from the tank. thats pretty mush his light.
Hi, Fisharecool, thank goodness he seems to be getting better!
The window light and lamp should work for many plants - that's exactly what I was using in that tank.
Healthy, live plants make a major difference to fish, especially to fry - I wouldn't want to keep fish without them.
I'm no expert, so I'll quote some people who are.
Dan Quackenbush
http
/www.malloftheworld.com/aquarium/par...tm#Introduction
... Comparing a plant to a plastic filter, mechanically, the filter wins the contest because plants can't remove any waste from the aquarium. They can, however, convert much of this waste to plant food.
Most experts would agree that biological filtering (using aerobic bacteria) is the most important means of maintaining water quality in the fish tank. The biological filter requires that the toxins produced by fish waste and excess food be broken down in stages via the nitrogen cycle. For new hobbyists, this means that different types of bacteria must break down deadly ammonia (or ammonium) produced in the decay of the waste, to a slightly less toxic nitrite and finally the least toxic nitrate. Plants use the same bacteria system. The roots and base of a plant are loaded with good guy bacteria and, in fact, plants are often used to start (seed) new aquariums. But, plants have other benefits not found in filters. Plants love ammonia and consume large quantities with no need to wait for it to be broken down by bacteria. Typical biological filters can't break down waste beyond nitrates, so this last by-product tends to accumulate and can become deadly at high levels. Plants, under certain conditions can consume nitrates. Many aquariums also have problems with excess phosphate that filters can't remove. Plants can, and do, remove substantial amounts of phosphate from the water.
Aesthetically, plants certainly look a whole lot better than any filter design I have seen to date. In retrospect, I guess it's not so surprising; after all, Mother Nature has had millions of years to perfect her methods. Plastic filters have not even been around a century. ...
... I have helped perpetuate the myth that you should never locate your aquarium by a window and especially a southern window ( if you live north of the equator). The logic was that it created too much temperature fluctuation and increased algae. It would not surprise me if this mis-information was started by a lighting company. The truth is, the temperature change is slow and the fish will adjust to it with no trouble. It takes more than just light to get alga. If the tank conditions are not right any light will increase alga.
Light from a southern window will out do the highest price lighting known for an aquarium. Depending on how much you get, it could even be to much. Reducing the sun light with partial (tape strips) or a total background on the back and or sides is much cheaper and easier than upgrading to high-tech lighting. Sun light also produces a very pleasing aquarium to look at.
East and west windows also work but for a shorter period of time.
I might point out, if you plan to do a notch plant tank, a southern window is critical. Even though I have a southern window I still use a small light. the reason is you will probably never get 10 hours of solid light. There are times of the year the sun will be over your home, below tree lines, overhangs or other buildings. You also have gray or rainy days. By putting even a little light on a timer I can extend the day to 12 hours for evening viewing. ...
http/www.malloftheworld.com/aquarium/part2.htm
... There is also the ammonia problem. Ammonia is typically the most deadly toxin (for fish) produced in an aquarium. When the pH is 7.0 or below, ammonia becomes ammonium. Ammonium is not toxic. ...
... In a fish tank without live plants, the fish have zero ability to improve their water. In fact, their entire metabolism is geared to turn the aquarium into a cesspool. Without a filter and partial water changes, the fish will die a toxic death of their own doing. Even with filters and water changes, it always seems fish tanks are close to impending danger. Most disasters can strike without any change to the water clarity. ...
As I stated before, in a typical filtered FISH tank without live plants, the fish are only capable of degrading their aquarium. When fish and plants are combined, a wonderful partnership is born. The various poisons that fish produce are cherished as food by the plants. They especially love what can be the most toxic, ammonia. Even the CO2 that the fish produce, but have no use for, is sucked up by the plants. In effect, the potential toxins are now improving the water quality. ...
http/tgvas.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=1716
... A little background. In 1999 Diana Walstad wrote the book "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium - A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist". Diana is a biologist, a micro-biologist and a technical advisor for the Aquatic Gardeners Association, as well as being a long time aquarist.
The ideas in her book have developed an avid following. Basically, she explains the science behind using the plants themselves as filters in a home aquarium, and how to set up a natural tank using soil, sunlight, minimal water exchanges, no other filters (some water movement, though), high density of plants, moderate stocking of fish, fertilizing only with excess fish flake food and the waste produced by the fish.
It's really a very old method of aquarium keeping - it's what people did in the late 1800's all the way into the 1950's when things like pumps, filters and fluorescent lighting became mass produced. Diana explains why it works. It's a very interesting book - a bit technical in places. ...
Honestly, the 'betta water' sounds like an expensive RO water - it may have been oxygenated, but does it remain oxygenated in the jug?
Perhaps they add minerals - but if you can get Equlibrium, or some other such balanced mineral replacement, you'd save a fortune.
You can get RO water out here 75 cents for a gallon refill - no toxins.
Perhaps someone better qualified to comment on this will - I sure hope so.
he never opens his fins up anymore. i dont want him to die. Please any help
