Sick betta advice needed
- Thread starter lynhagan
- Start date
Salt does not affect hardness. It is sodium chloride and hardness measures calcium and magnesium.
If GH is going up, something in the tank is adding calcium and/or magnesium. The usual culprits are a substrate made from coral or limestone rocks or pieces of coral as decor.
What is the substrate in the tank, and what type of decor is in there?
If nitrite is above zero, you do need another what change. What is the ammonia level?
If GH is going up, something in the tank is adding calcium and/or magnesium. The usual culprits are a substrate made from coral or limestone rocks or pieces of coral as decor.
What is the substrate in the tank, and what type of decor is in there?
If nitrite is above zero, you do need another what change. What is the ammonia level?
Seachem red flourite? I just added a soaked catappa leave to try and help. He is looking much better at the minute.
Would you mind also please answering the question about putting a sponge filter in and whether it needs to be switched on to seed (in case I need to move him in future)
I added Stability with the 50% water change after the salt drama - that is the only other thing added apart from Tetra BRine Shrimp food. Is the GH a problem? What should I do?
The pack says it's made of "all natural porous clay". Do you have any left or did you use it all? If you did, take a pinch out of the tank and let it dry. Once you have a few dry bits, drop some vinegar onto the pieces and watch for tiny bubbles. If it forms any, that's what's raising the hardness.
Stability should have no effect as that's a bottled bacteria product which shouldn't contain calcium or magnesium.
Sorry, I missed the question about the filter
The sponge filter needs to be running to pull water containing food and oxygen through the sponge. It will take a few weeks for it to grow bacteria colonies. The total number of bacteria remains constant in a cycled tank with the same fish. (Some will die off and new ones created by division to replace them to keep the numbers constant). So eventually there should be bacteria in both filters, though not necessarily equal numbers, depending on the amount of living space available to the bacteria. But as you say, with a betta you don't want too much water flow in the tank.
However, if the betta is the only creature (fish, shrimp, snail, whatever) in the tank, you don't need a hospital tank. Those are used to treat a single fish from a tank containing many fish, or fish from a very large tank as less medication needs to be used in a smaller volume. With 10 and 2 gallon tanks, there won't be much saving on meds by treating the 10 gallon. It's less stressful for the fish to treat him in his usual tank.
Stability should have no effect as that's a bottled bacteria product which shouldn't contain calcium or magnesium.
Sorry, I missed the question about the filter
The sponge filter needs to be running to pull water containing food and oxygen through the sponge. It will take a few weeks for it to grow bacteria colonies. The total number of bacteria remains constant in a cycled tank with the same fish. (Some will die off and new ones created by division to replace them to keep the numbers constant). So eventually there should be bacteria in both filters, though not necessarily equal numbers, depending on the amount of living space available to the bacteria. But as you say, with a betta you don't want too much water flow in the tank.
However, if the betta is the only creature (fish, shrimp, snail, whatever) in the tank, you don't need a hospital tank. Those are used to treat a single fish from a tank containing many fish, or fish from a very large tank as less medication needs to be used in a smaller volume. With 10 and 2 gallon tanks, there won't be much saving on meds by treating the 10 gallon. It's less stressful for the fish to treat him in his usual tank.
Could have saved a few quid on the panic buying hospital tank kit (though it's coming in handy for heating up water for water changes). I really appreciate you replying. I am alternating with the sponge filter and the main filter - I'll keep it as a reserve.The pack says it's made of "all natural porous clay". Do you have any left or did you use it all? If you did, take a pinch out of the tank and let it dry. Once you have a few dry bits, drop some vinegar onto the pieces and watch for tiny bubbles. If it forms any, that's what's raising the hardness.
Stability should have no effect as that's a bottled bacteria product which shouldn't contain calcium or magnesium.
Sorry, I missed the question about the filter
The sponge filter needs to be running to pull water containing food and oxygen through the sponge. It will take a few weeks for it to grow bacteria colonies. The total number of bacteria remains constant in a cycled tank with the same fish. (Some will die off and new ones created by division to replace them to keep the numbers constant). So eventually there should be bacteria in both filters, though not necessarily equal numbers, depending on the amount of living space available to the bacteria. But as you say, with a betta you don't want too much water flow in the tank.
However, if the betta is the only creature (fish, shrimp, snail, whatever) in the tank, you don't need a hospital tank. Those are used to treat a single fish from a tank containing many fish, or fish from a very large tank as less medication needs to be used in a smaller volume. With 10 and 2 gallon tanks, there won't be much saving on meds by treating the 10 gallon. It's less stressful for the fish to treat him in his usual tank.
I have some spare Seachem substrate so I will do what you say (very puzzled why this substrate would do that but it's a possibility) - I am guessing I should remove it if so, or do some other magic?
Testing the substrate with vinegar will tell if it's that which is causing the GH to go up. It probably isn't but at least it will eliminate the substrate from the list of possibilities. It's sometimes easier to eliminate what's not the cause then whatever is left presumably is the cause.
The other way to test things is to have 2 containers, one filled with tap water and the second with tap water plus the thing being tested. Leave them for several days then test the water. Any difference between the two is due to whatever was added to the second container.
The other way to test things is to have 2 containers, one filled with tap water and the second with tap water plus the thing being tested. Leave them for several days then test the water. Any difference between the two is due to whatever was added to the second container.
So the GH and KH are way too high then? What should I be aiming for with a Betta?
Today the parameters were GH 120-180, KH 120, PH 7.5 No2 0-0.5, NO3 0 - 20
A few days ago they were GH 0, KH 40, PH 7.5 No2 0-0.05, N03 0-20
Was it the 50% water change possibly? I added Seachem prime....
The current GH and KH are fine, it's just that changing so much over a few days is not good for fish. GH should remain stable.
Have you tested your tap water or just tank water? it would be interesting to know what the GH is before the water goes in the tank.
Have you tested your tap water or just tank water? it would be interesting to know what the GH is before the water goes in the tank.
Hi 'Essjay',
I put 7 gallons of water in a spare container (no substrate or plants) and tested it after 2 days of leaving it there - along with the tank readings.
The readings from the API strips were more or less identical - which means I just have hard water?
Should I do anything? (like peat moss) - I'm reluctant to play around with chemicals after my mishap with the salt.
I put 7 gallons of water in a spare container (no substrate or plants) and tested it after 2 days of leaving it there - along with the tank readings.
The readings from the API strips were more or less identical - which means I just have hard water?
Should I do anything? (like peat moss) - I'm reluctant to play around with chemicals after my mishap with the salt.
It does sound as though the first set of results - with 0 GH - were inaccurate and the true readings are the higher ones. If the first test was with strips, perhaps that one was faulty.
If your GH is still between 120 and 180 ppm that's the top end of soft to middling and is OK for a betta. But a word of caution - these strips only measure as high as 180 so if they read as the 180 ppm colour the GH could actually be higher.
If your GH is still between 120 and 180 ppm that's the top end of soft to middling and is OK for a betta. But a word of caution - these strips only measure as high as 180 so if they read as the 180 ppm colour the GH could actually be higher.
I bought the Seachem nitrite and nitrate test kit - I can see how that I should have bought the Master kit everyone recommends. It was the darkest blue on the strip so it is possible it could be higher. I think the recommendation of peat moss might be a good one as a precaution? I'll shell out more cash then 
(unless I can just buy a water hardness test).
Seachem came highly recommended so I went with their hang on Ammonia and PH tests and bought the NItrate and NItrate separately - had no conception of water hardness being an issue.
Sammy (I am getting attached to him now, as he comes to see me) is looking so much better.
I'm feeling brave and thinking about the Dennerle nano tank for either another Betta or Shrimp.
(unless I can just buy a water hardness test).Seachem came highly recommended so I went with their hang on Ammonia and PH tests and bought the NItrate and NItrate separately - had no conception of water hardness being an issue.
Sammy (I am getting attached to him now, as he comes to see me) is looking so much better.
I'm feeling brave and thinking about the Dennerle nano tank for either another Betta or Shrimp.
Have you looked on your water company's website to see what they say your hardness is? Is Newcastle the one upon Tyne or the one under Lyme?
Newcastle Upon Tyne?
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