Should I gradually dim light at night?

Nautilus

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I find it quite unnatural to flick the fish tank lights off at night. I'm thinking that this could be a shock for the fishes as they can't see anything after that. Should I get dimmable lights and do it gradually?

What's your techniques, opinions, experience about this?
 
My newest light a Chihiros B60 has a dimmable setting, I do find the fish are more relaxed and less jittery at "sunrise" and "sunset" around a 30-minute build-up from 0% light intensity to 70%.
 
I find it quite unnatural to flick the fish tank lights off at night. I'm thinking that this could be a shock for the fishes as they can't see anything after that. Should I get dimmable lights and do it gradually?

What's your techniques, opinions, experience about this?
I have dimmers on my tanks for that exact reason. I run twinstar B series on my tanks and they all come with dimmers. Buceplant has some here.
 
My current tank has my first dim-able light and, to be honest, I have not seen any difference in fish behavior. However my living room, where the tank is located, is never totally dark as there are always 4 accent lights on 24/7 and the hood lights on my stove are always on. Also the tank sits next to a window with the blinds slightly open giving morning light to the tank before the tank light even starts up. So with all that the tank has never experienced straight dark to light to dark.

After all the above I DO believe that dimming lights are better and will continue to use even though I really don't see any difference in fish activity from the original straight on/off original light. The current light has a crude timer but not to where you can set exact on/off times but a button on the controller that sets it to run for 6/10/12 hours from the time that it is pressed and repeats. I run the lights for 10 hours. Since the light has a 15 minute warm/down cycle it is on full for 9.5 hours.

While not as needed in my personal situation I would still advise to use lights that warm up/down just do it being more natural. Even though my situation lessens the need I still think it better to have a warm up/down cycle.
 
Mine dim, in increments, over the course of several hours, ending with just back lighting the background, until that finally goes out… my lights turn on, in reverse of how they go out…

I find turning the lights on quickly, to be more stressful, than off, to several fish
 
I find turning the lights on quickly, to be more stressful, than off, to several fish
Actually the same with my cockatiel. His cage is covered from 9:00 PM till 10:00 AM with the main full spectrum cage light wired to a wall switch. I will always uncover the cage and then turn on the cage light a bit after. At night I just flip off the light and cover.
 
This explains things better than I can -


This is a subject that I researched in detail for an article a couple of years back, so if I may I will cut and paste what should be relevant portions to answer your question. The light/dark cycle is considerably crucial to fish health. First, on your spawning question, it is normal for many species to spawn at or around dawn.

Fish are affected by light in many ways. There are several well-documented studies on spawning in some species being triggered by changes in the day/night cycle, and the hatching of eggs and the growth rate of fry can be impacted significantly depending upon the presence and intensity of light. The health of fish is closely connected to the intensity of the overhead light, various types of light, and sudden changes from dark to light or light to dark. To understand this, we must know something about the fish’s physiology. The primary receptor of light is the eye, but other body cells are also sensitive to light.

Fish eyes are not much different from those of other vertebrates including humans. Our eyes share a cornea, an iris, a lens, a pupil, and a retina. The latter contains rods which allow us to see in dim light and cones which perceive colours; while mammals (like us) have two types of cones, fish have three—one for each of the colours red, green and blue. These connect to nerve cells which transmit images to the brain, and the optic lobe is the largest part of the fish’s brain.

These cells are very delicate; humans have pupils that expand or contract to alter the amount of light entering the eye and eyelids, both of which help to prevent damage occurring due to bright light. Fish (with very few exceptions such as some shark species) do not have eyelids, and in most species their pupils are fixed and cannot alter. In bright light, the rods retract into the retina and the cones approach the surface; in dim light the opposite occurs. But unlike our pupils that change very quickly, this process in fish takes time. Scientific studies on salmon have shown that it takes half an hour for the eye to adjust to bright light, and an hour to adjust to dim light. This is why the aquarist should wait at least 30 minutes after the tank lights come on before feeding or performing a water change or other tank maintenance; this allows the fish to adjust to the light difference.

The Day/Night Cycle

Most animals have an internal body clock, called a circadian rhythm, which is modified by the light/dark cycle every 24 hours. This is the explanation for jet-lag in humans when time zones are crossed—our circadian rhythm is unbalanced and has to reset itself, which it does according to periods of light and dark. Our eyes play a primary role in this, but many of our body cells have some reaction to light levels. In fish this light sensitivity in their cells is very high.

Previously I mentioned that the rods and cones in the eye shift according to the changes in light. This process is also anticipated according to the time of day; the fish “expects” dawn and dusk, and the eyes will automatically begin to adjust accordingly. This is due to the circadian rhythm.

This is one reason why during each 24 hours a regular period of light/dark—ensuring there are several hours of complete darkness—is essential for the fish. In the tropics, day and night is equal for all 365 days a year, with approximately ten to twelve hours each of daylight and complete darkness, separated by fairly brief periods of dawn or dusk. The period of daylight produced by direct tank lighting can be shorter; and the period of total darkness can be somewhat shorter or longer—but there must be several hours of complete darkness in the aquarium. The dusk and dawn periods will appear to be stretched out, but that causes no problems for the fish. It is the bright overhead light that is the concern, along with having a suitable period of total darkness.

This period of total darkness includes ambient light in the room. If there is light in the room from lamps and such, the fish will not respond normally.

Turning the Tank Light On/Off

When the tank light suddenly turns on in a dark room, fish will dive to the substrate, dash about frantically often hitting the glass sides of the aquarium, or even jump out of the water. The same reactions occur when the tank lights are suddenly turned out. Aside from any possible physical injury the fish may sustain, these sudden changes in the light cause significant stress to the fish. Bright camera flashes can also be stressful in the same way. So also would any unnatural effect such as strobe lighting.

Thom Demas, curator of fishes at the Tennessee Aquarium, defines stress as anything that threatens to disrupt an organism’s normal physical, mental and/or emotional state. The organism must then expend energy dealing with the stressor, which leaves it with less energy to deal with other things, such as pathogens. “If the fish are busy running from or hiding from that weird phenomenon of ‘instant lights on or off,’ they may be wasting energy to this stressor and eventually get sick from something that is most likely ubiquitous and that they would have tolerated had the stressing event not been there,” says Demas. There is now ample scientific evidence that in fish as in humans, stress at any level has a very negative impact on the immune system because it disrupts the physiological equilibrium of the fish.

The solution with tank lights is obvious: the room should always be reasonably well lit when the tank light comes on and when it goes off. As Marc Kind, curator of fishes and invertebrates at the Adventure Aquarium in Camden, New Jersey, says, “this is just good, sound husbandry.” Given the evidence mentioned previously of the time it takes for fish to adjust, the room should be lit for at least an hour before and after the tank light is turned on or off respectively. From my own experience this all but eliminates any frantic reactions from the fish. They will uniformly and quickly swim toward the room light source (be it light coming in the window or from a lamp) when the tank light goes off, but without frantic crashes and jumping into the tank cover glass which will otherwise occur.

post #3 in this thread
 
my light does gradually dim, but if your light doesn't have this function then just make sure there is some light in the room when the tank light goes off.

That way, the fish aren't instantly plunged into complete darkness.

My tanks are in an open plan room with different lighting zones. Once my tank light is completely off I turn off/dim the room lights (nearest first) over the course of an hour or two.
 
If the light unit can be dimmed then have it start off on low in the morning and increase it's intensity over a 30-60 minute period. Then reverse that at night so it gradually gets dimmer over an hour before lights out.


TURNING LIGHTS ON AND OFF
Stress from tank lights coming on when the room is dark can be an issue. Fish don't have eyelids and don't tolerate going from complete dark to bright light (or vice versa) instantly.

In the morning open the curtains or turn the room light on at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the tank light on. This will reduce the stress on the fish and they won't go from a dark tank to a bright tank instantly.

At night turn the room light on and then turn the tank light off. Wait at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the room light out. This allows the fish to settle down for the night instead of going from a brightly lit tank to complete darkness instantly.

Try to have the lights on at the same time each day. Use a timer if possible.

If the light unit is programmable, have it on a low setting for the first 30-60 minutes and increase the brightness over time. Do the opposite in the evening and gradually reduce the light for the last 30-60 minutes before lights out.

If you don't have live plants in the tank, you only need the light on for a few hours in the evening. You might turn them on at 4 or 5pm and off at 9pm.

If you do have live plants in the tank, you can have the lights on for 8-16 hours a day but the fish and plants need 8 hours of darkness to rest. Most people with live plants in their aquarium will have the lights on for 8-12 hours a day.
 

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