George Farmer
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I've had a couple of requests for a copy of a PM that I've sent so I'd thougth I'd share it with you all.
These are my personal opinions based on my own limited experiences, I hope they help you. The following points generally relate to high-tech tank, one where most plants will grow well. Sorry if some of the points are obvious. You might want to print this. LOL
1. Buy the best equipment you can afford and try to buy it all together rather than bit by bit. Save up if necessary.
2. Your setup will only be as good as its least successful element i.e. you may have great lighting but if you have no CO2 then the balance is lost and you'll grow algae instead of plants. It's all about balancing your system.
3. Light and CO2 - Get good quality lighting rather than lots of average lighting. 2 WPG of full-spectrum lighting will be better than 4 WPG of standard lighting (algae will prevail again). Try to get lighting which peaks in the orange-red part of the spectrum more than the blue part. Plants require red and blue but too much blue will encourage algae. If you have 2 WPG or more then you must use CO2, try to get between 20 and 30 mg/l. Ensure your Carbonate hardness (KH) is more than 3 degrees (55 ppm). Use reflectors to increase light intensity/effeciency. Note - the WPG rule doesn't apply to tanks less than 15 Gallons. You generally need more light in smaller tanks.
4. Filtration - Ensure it doesn't turn over the water too much. 4 times the tank volume per hour is plenty. Keep the output well below the surface to minimise CO2 loss. Don't use carbon unless you're removing medication, carbon removes elements useful for plants.
5. Substrate - More important than most people think. Go for a fine gravel size (1 to 3mm), this allows anchorage and root growth. Sand will compact over time causing lots of problems unless you use a heater cable. There are many plant specialised substrates i.e. Flourite, Eco-Complete. These are excellent but expensive. I use cheap fine pea-gravel mixed with laterite. The pea-gravel contains traces of limestone but my regular water changes ensure the hardness doesn't build. I'd recommend an undergravel heater-cable. These have so many positive effects; they warm the roots encouraging growth, convert the substrate into a massive biological filter by the convection currents constantly cycling the water, reduce the need for gravel vacuuming (I NEVER vacuum mine), eliminate any anaerobic dead-spots that cause all sorts of problems. In my opinion if you want long-term success with plants (some of my plants are 2 years old now and still thrive) a heater-cable is essential.
6. Fertilisers - Mostly unnecessary until you have loads of plants all showing excellent growth. Most nutrients will be available in tap water, fish food and waste and the substrate. Only when the plants are showing signs of specific nutrient deficiencies should you fertilise.
7. Fish - Stock to a medium capacity and have lots of Algae eaters i.e. Otos, SAEs, Amano shrimp, some Livebearers. Avoid plecs which grow large and Cichlids which dig. Feed well, the extra waste feeds plants (this is controversial but works for me). If your plants are growing well then these will use up the waste products quickly i.e. Ammonium.
8. Maintenance - Water change at least 20% weekly and clean off any algae, remove any dead leaves/leaves with excessive algae growth. Clean light tubes and reflectors. Don't clean filters until flow is severly restricted. Only clean half of the media at once.
9. Water - Grow plants which are suitable for your water chemistry, lighting/CO2 etc., do your research.
10. Plants - Here's a list suitable for initial setup - fast and easy growers, great for beating algae. Suitable for most types of water.
Ceratophyllum - Tropical Hornwort
Ceratopteris - Indian Fern
Egeria densa - Waterweed
Hydrocotyle leucocephala - Brazilian Water Ivy
Hygrophila polysperma
Ludwigia species
Shinnersia species - Mexican Oak Leaf
Vallisneria species - Vallis
Limnophila sessisflora - Small Ambulia
All floating plants i.e. Duckweed, Water Lettuce
These are my personal opinions based on my own limited experiences, I hope they help you. The following points generally relate to high-tech tank, one where most plants will grow well. Sorry if some of the points are obvious. You might want to print this. LOL
1. Buy the best equipment you can afford and try to buy it all together rather than bit by bit. Save up if necessary.
2. Your setup will only be as good as its least successful element i.e. you may have great lighting but if you have no CO2 then the balance is lost and you'll grow algae instead of plants. It's all about balancing your system.
3. Light and CO2 - Get good quality lighting rather than lots of average lighting. 2 WPG of full-spectrum lighting will be better than 4 WPG of standard lighting (algae will prevail again). Try to get lighting which peaks in the orange-red part of the spectrum more than the blue part. Plants require red and blue but too much blue will encourage algae. If you have 2 WPG or more then you must use CO2, try to get between 20 and 30 mg/l. Ensure your Carbonate hardness (KH) is more than 3 degrees (55 ppm). Use reflectors to increase light intensity/effeciency. Note - the WPG rule doesn't apply to tanks less than 15 Gallons. You generally need more light in smaller tanks.
4. Filtration - Ensure it doesn't turn over the water too much. 4 times the tank volume per hour is plenty. Keep the output well below the surface to minimise CO2 loss. Don't use carbon unless you're removing medication, carbon removes elements useful for plants.
5. Substrate - More important than most people think. Go for a fine gravel size (1 to 3mm), this allows anchorage and root growth. Sand will compact over time causing lots of problems unless you use a heater cable. There are many plant specialised substrates i.e. Flourite, Eco-Complete. These are excellent but expensive. I use cheap fine pea-gravel mixed with laterite. The pea-gravel contains traces of limestone but my regular water changes ensure the hardness doesn't build. I'd recommend an undergravel heater-cable. These have so many positive effects; they warm the roots encouraging growth, convert the substrate into a massive biological filter by the convection currents constantly cycling the water, reduce the need for gravel vacuuming (I NEVER vacuum mine), eliminate any anaerobic dead-spots that cause all sorts of problems. In my opinion if you want long-term success with plants (some of my plants are 2 years old now and still thrive) a heater-cable is essential.
6. Fertilisers - Mostly unnecessary until you have loads of plants all showing excellent growth. Most nutrients will be available in tap water, fish food and waste and the substrate. Only when the plants are showing signs of specific nutrient deficiencies should you fertilise.
7. Fish - Stock to a medium capacity and have lots of Algae eaters i.e. Otos, SAEs, Amano shrimp, some Livebearers. Avoid plecs which grow large and Cichlids which dig. Feed well, the extra waste feeds plants (this is controversial but works for me). If your plants are growing well then these will use up the waste products quickly i.e. Ammonium.
8. Maintenance - Water change at least 20% weekly and clean off any algae, remove any dead leaves/leaves with excessive algae growth. Clean light tubes and reflectors. Don't clean filters until flow is severly restricted. Only clean half of the media at once.
9. Water - Grow plants which are suitable for your water chemistry, lighting/CO2 etc., do your research.
10. Plants - Here's a list suitable for initial setup - fast and easy growers, great for beating algae. Suitable for most types of water.
Ceratophyllum - Tropical Hornwort
Ceratopteris - Indian Fern
Egeria densa - Waterweed
Hydrocotyle leucocephala - Brazilian Water Ivy
Hygrophila polysperma
Ludwigia species
Shinnersia species - Mexican Oak Leaf
Vallisneria species - Vallis
Limnophila sessisflora - Small Ambulia
All floating plants i.e. Duckweed, Water Lettuce
well done, this should be pinned!
I read in other posts that normal lights from a diy store are OK. Is this what you are refering to as "standard lighting"?
