Setting up a new aquarium after 25 years out of the hobby

[Chu'Wuti]

Thanks, PhoenixKing--yes, we are estimating about 900 pounds of weight total, so moving the cabinet and tank NOW is definitely best!

Third question (rather, set of questions)! I was reviewing posts about using dechlorinators and got reminded about aeration. I forgot to get any airstones or pumps for airstones . . . I seem to recall using a gang valve with several air lines coming off of it to several airstones in the past. Or maybe my EHEIM filter takes care of aeration? If not, should I get several airstones or just one? If just one, size? If several, one pump with a gang valve setup so I can run several airstones from one pump?

Oh, I've forgotten so much!

Sandy

 

[utahfish]

Yup most water conditioners will take out chlorine and chloramine. To soften hard water mix with distilled or RO water. RO and distilled water dont need to be dechlorinated.
Before stocking one will need to cycle the tank which is a bit easier than it was 25 years ago. One can buy bottles of beneficial bacteria and ammonia to get beneficial bacteria started. Your water test kit will be helpful when cycling the tank. Once no readings of ammonia and nitrite just nitrates one is ready to add fish. Good luck keep us updated on progress ask lots of questions and welcome! sorry i made this post when tff was down and now it wont go away so heres a redundant post!

 

[Essjay]

A filter that 'ruffles' the water surface is enough on its own. Gas exchange takes place at the water surface (oxygen in and carbon dioxide out) and a filter will churn up the water in the tank moving lower down water to the top and vice versa. With an air stone, the bubbles churn the water up. If the filter moves the water round, you don't need an air stone, although a lot of people like to have them on standy in case the fish get sick. Warmer water, as used for treating ich, and medication in the water lower its oxygen carrying abilty, so having some thing extra to turn the water over at these times help keep the water oxygenated.

 

[Chu'Wuti]

Oooh, another new thing to get! Okay! Thank you, utahfish and essjay!

So my new shopping list (not including plants!) includes:
1 bottle of bacteria
1 bottle of ammonia
1 airstone and pump for backup when needed.

Thank goodness our LFS will do curbside deliveries!

 

[Byron]

Oooh, another new thing to get! Okay! Thank you, utahfish and essjay!

So my new shopping list (not including plants!) includes:
1 bottle of bacteria
1 bottle of ammonia
1 airstone and pump for backup when needed.

Thank goodness our LFS will do curbside deliveries!

If live plants are intended, I do not recommend artificial ammonia. The plants need nitrogen and aquatic species primarily prefer ammonia/ammonium so they take it up readily and quite rapidly. "Cycling" can basically be forgotten with enough plants that are faster growing, such as floating plants (the best) or some lower plants. Adding ammonia can work, but it is also easy to kill plants because ammonia is toxic to all life and as it is not necessary I wouldn't risk it.

Bacterial supplements, same idea. Not a problem, but with plants not really needed. I have never used this in new tanks.

I personally would not bother with an air pump and airstone, but if you feel safer, not a problem. The filter return on an Eheim canister can be adjusted to increase surface disturbance, and this is the beneficial part of this. With plants you want to keep a reasonably good surface disturbance near the filter return generally, because at night when CO2 increases naturally the fish can have oxygen deficiency issues. I noticed this in my cory tank some years ago, when I spotted the cories all respirating more rapidly in the early morning; increasing the surface disturbance solved the problem.

 

[JuiceBox52]

Welcome to the forum!

 

[PheonixKingZ]

Your welcome! I don’t use air stones because my filter is aerating enough for the fish I keep. Some people like to get air stones because they like the looks of the bubbles. I personally think it looks unnatural, but it’s up to you.

Oooh, another new thing to get! Okay! Thank you, utahfish and essjay!

So my new shopping list (not including plants!) includes:
1 bottle of bacteria
1 bottle of ammonia
1 airstone and pump for backup when needed.

Thank goodness our LFS will do curbside deliveries!

Sounds good! What plants are you planning on keeping?

 

[Chu'Wuti]

Now looking at heaters. It appears that I need two 300W heaters, one at each end of my tank, each externally controlled by an Inkbird temperature controller (total of two controllers). I'm finding so many different, conflicting reviews . . . I'm confused! I've looked at EHEIM Jagers, Fluval Es, Fluval Ms, Hyggers . . . Help?

Suggestions?

 

[seangee]

Now looking at heaters. It appears that I need two 300W heaters, one at each end of my tank, each externally controlled by an Inkbird temperature controller (total of two controllers). I'm finding so many different, conflicting reviews . . . I'm confused! I've looked at EHEIM Jagers, Fluval Es, Fluval Ms, Hyggers . . . Help?

Suggestions?

Well you can always find ways to spend more money, and vendors happy to take it off you. I actually try to keep it simple. But as for the heaters....
I happen to use an Inkbird contoller. One controller is sufficient for 2 heaters (but not neccessary). for the heaters get the reputable brands. The cheaper ones may be as good but the consequences of failure can be catastrophic.
My logic for using the inkbird with 2 heaters is as follows:

1. If one heater stops coming on my tank will still be heated by the other one and stop my fish from freezing
2. If one heater fails to turn off (thermostat failure) the inkbird will turn it off and prevent me from making fish soup
3. If the inkbird fails to turn the heaters off they will turn themselves off because I set the thermostats independently
4. If the inkbird stops working I will know quicker than if a heater fails because there is a large LED display that I can see anywhere in the room, I may not notice a failed heater so quickly.

So for me its just about reducing the impact of things going wrong. At the other end of the scale I don't worry about redundant filters or pumps because the plants will take over their job. In truth many people would regard my tanks as severely under filtered. I don't buy the "there's no such thing as too much filtration". I prefer to think of it as an eco-system that is as self sustaining as possible. Since it is a closed system my job is to ensure a regular supply of fresh water and to keep the temperature at an acceptable level.

 

[Byron]

The heater is the one piece of equipment that you never should economize on; a heater that fails can cook a tank of fish overnight before you realize it, or the reverse (if the room temp is cold). There are undoubtedly several good quality heaters. And in a 75g, two heaters is frankly necessary, and are best placed one at each end beside the filter return (at one end) and the filter intake (at the opposite end). Make sure you have your Eheim canister set up that way (at opposite ends). Higher wattage heaters (like the 300w) will generally be more reliable.

 

[PheonixKingZ]

I have never got any of those high end heaters, so I don’t know which one would be best. I personally like Interpet because they are cheap and reliable.

 

[Chu'Wuti]

Ah. So one can use the "cooling" outlet for one heater and the "heating" outlet for the other. I didn't realize that; good to know! That will save some $!

 

[PheonixKingZ]

Ah. So one can use the "cooling" outlet for one heater and the "heating" outlet for the other. I didn't realize that; good to know! That will save some $!

Yes, that’s a good tip to pick up on.

 

[Chu'Wuti]

I have been washing sand, about 8 cups at a time, a couple hours a day, for a number of days. Today I finished washing 100 pounds of sand. Why does it feel as if I wash away 1 to 2 cups of sand out of every 8 cups?

Here's hoping the last 50 pound bag is enough to get my 2-inches minimum depth in front with more in back. So far I seem to be 1-1.5 inches . . .

 

[PheonixKingZ]

I like to have my sand around 2 inches. It helps my plants grow better IMO.

It is possible that every time you wash sand, a small bit is washed away. This is normal, that’s why it isn’t recommended to wash sand that thorough.