Seachem Purigen - What Can Be Used As "buffer" Soak?

[GoldLenny]

Here are the "Recharge" instructions for Purigen. I'm on the second stage (soaking in dechlor solution). The next phase calls for soaking in "1 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water". I've never used any of the 3 products they mention. It looks like they are calling for something to lower the pH since one of the products is "Acid Buffer".... but only for FW users. Purigen is also useable in SW tanks but this last stage is not needed for SW tanks. I wonder why not?

Regeneration: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metalic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of ChlorGuardâ„¢, Primeâ„¢, or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 1 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Bufferâ„¢, Neutral Regulatorâ„¢, or Acid Bufferâ„¢). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigenâ„¢ is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigenâ„¢ and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit.

Here is an FAQ about these products from SeaChem's site...

Q: What is the difference between Neutral Regulatorâ„¢, Discus Bufferâ„¢, Alkaline Bufferâ„¢, and Acid Bufferâ„¢?
A: Neutral Regulatorâ„¢and Discus Bufferâ„¢are phosphate based buffers providing a very strong and stable buffering system. Alkaline Bufferâ„¢and Acid Bufferâ„¢are non-phosphate buffers, which although less stable than a phosphate buffer, are ideal for the planted aquarium where high phosphate levels would lead to an algae problem.

Any suggestions for this "buffer" that I can make out of available home products?

 

[GoldLenny]

Here is some info I found on the MSDS sheets for the various products listed above.

Discus Buffer, Neutral Regulator, Betta Basics, Gold Basics, Central American Buffer, South American Buffer Low, South American Buffer High (Liquid & Powder versions), Flourish Phosphorus:
Contains phosphate salts. Ingestion may cause diarrhea. Eye contact will be irritating. Prolonged skin contact may be irritating.

Acid Buffer, Pond Acid Buffer:
Contains bisulfate salts. Dry or concentrated product may be corrosive and irritating. Avoid inhalation or contact.

Does anyone know what commercially available products would do the same as "bisulfate salts" or "phosphate salts"? I like the sound of "bisulfate salts" and I'm going to Google a little to find more info as it seems like that is the ingredient in some kind of household product.

 

[GoldLenny]

OK. It looks like Sulphuric Acid and regular salt would make home-made Sodium Bisulphate (NaHSO4).

http/www.proteachemicalscape.co.za/msds/msds371.html has:

Synonyms: Sulfuric acid, monosodium salt

http/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_bisulfate has:

A second production method involves reacting sodium chloride (salt) and sulfuric acid at elevated temperatures to produce sodium bisulfate and hydrogen chloride gas.

Sulphuric Acid is H2SO4 and Salt is NaCl.

The problem is that I don't keep Sulphuric Acid around the house so I guess I'll have to buy the acid buffer stuff at the LFS. Hopefully they have some store brands or cheaper brands than SeaChem.

In case anyone else reads this.... Why do you think the Purigen needs to be soaked in an acid bath after the recharge process? This sounds like after the recharge process, it would possibly be very alkaline and might leech this alkalinity into the tank. I'm just wondering... since I already have moderately hard water with a high pH, would this matter? The instruction only say this last process needs to be done with freshwater, not saltwater, which would make sense because SW likes to have a high pH anyhow.

After I'm done with the 2nd phase of the dechlor soak, I'm going to add the Purigen packet to a gallon of water and see how it affects the pH and hardness levels of the water compared to the out-the-tap readings.

 

[GoldLenny]

I tested my tap water and the pH was 7.6. I filled a large cup with 16 oz. of tap water and added the packet of my two-stage recharged Purigen and let it soak overnight. Tested that water and it was 7.6 so I'm not sure why Seachem is asking FW users to soak it in an acid soak.

SW fish are far more sensitive to water chemistry so if the two stages are sufficient for SW fish, why aren't they sufficient for FW fish?

Or is SeaChem just trying to sell other products since they know most of us have easy access to bleach and dechlor products.

 

[andywg]

How strange that the pH is not extremely high.

Perhaps it leaches the acid over a longer period (though I am clutching at straws here)? Though I find it difficult ot believe it will take longer than overnight to do a lot.

Maybe they are thinking more of acidic softwater fish such as many species from South America?

Does seem a bit odd though...