Rushed...and ....

I definitely didn't mean it to sound as if I was saying you were stupid and you probably weren't inferring that I did (man it's hard to interpret the written word). In any case, I did see the readings as soon as I posted my reply (which I guess I was typing the same time you were). They are actually better than I expected considering the number of fish in the tank.

The salt may help with white spot but you will definitely need an antibiotic. The mollies will also like it as they actually prefer brackish water. Below is as good of an explanation of salt and how it affects FW fish as I have seen.

This question comes up quite a lot, and here's my same response every time. silverchild, I do hope you set aside and take the time to read through all this... there is some very good information in these links and texts I am going to post:

There are several good threads on salt going around, please read through these, they'll give you all the reasons against salt.

What Does Aquirium Salt Do
Aquarium Salt Dosing, safe for all my fish?
Salt Additions, How quick?
Does Salt Help With Fin Repair In Any Way?

and specifically I'll just take a quote from some of my older posts:

Primary freshwater fishes are those that have remained, as far as we can tell from the fossil record, in fresh waters throughout their evolutionary heritage. Fishes that fall into this category include Characins, Carps and Catfishes.

Secondary freshwater fishes are those that had marine ancestors at some point in past time, but which moved into freshwater in order to occupy various niches. Cichlids are an example of secondary freshwater fishes - their nearest relatives are the marine Damselfishes of the Family Pomacentridae, and it's highly likely that both Families shared a common (and marine) ancestor.

Consequently, the secondary freshwater fishes still have at least some degree of osmoregulatory capacity for dealing with salt in the water, while the primary freshwater fishes never evolved it in the first place. So, placing primary freshwater fishes into water containing salt is a bad idea, and even modest amounts will kill them. Secondary freshwater fishes, on the other hand, can tolerate small amounts of salt, and indeed some members of secondarily freshwater Families are brackish in nature - the Cichlid fish Etroplus suratensis springs to mind as one example. Cyprinodontiformes also fall into this category - both the egg-laying Cyprinodontidae and the live-bearing Poeciliidae are also secondarily freshwater, some of the latter Family being fully brackish in the wild (indeed, the Giant Sailfin Molly, Poecilia vivipara, is fully euryhaline, and can live in fully marine water, as specimens captured in seawater off the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico testify eloquently).

Quite simply put, if your aquarium contains any primary freshwater fishes, do NOT add salt, as those fishes will suffer considerable stress if exposed to salt, and may even die. Even in the case of secondarily freshwater fishes, salt is only a good idea if the fishes concerned are KNOWN to inhabit brackish waters in the wild.

Most fishes fall into the category of being stenohaline, namely, they are either freshwater or fully marine. These fishes should only be exposed to the kind of water in which they occur in the wild with respect to salt content. Euryhaline fishes, that can migrate with some degree of freedom between freshwater, brackish and fully marine environments, are much fewer in number, and tend to be conspicuous in this regard when encountered in the textbooks - fishes such as Scats, Monos, Therapon jarbua, velifera Mollies and one or two of the Puffer Fishes are notable for this. Within the euryhaline division, there are those that can migrate more or less at will, and those that do so developmentally - the Puffer Fish Tetraodon nigroviridis is developmentally euryhaline, spending its juvenile stages in freshwater before migrating at a steady pace to increasingly saline waters until, as adults, they are strongly brackish or fully marine fishes. Once again, and I cannot stress this enough, it pays to do the research and find out what your fish is!

The main point is that many fish evolved in an a very low-salt environment and do not have the physical mechanisms to handle salt. Will it kill them immediately... No. But, it puts a significant amount of additional stress on the fish, with all the additional problems extra stress lead to: increased susceptibility to disease, shorter lifespan, less color, less likely to spawn, etc. If you have fish that do have the capabilities to deal with salt, it won't be as bad -- though if everything is healthy and fine now, why the need for a change? But, if you have fish that are intolerant of salt, it will lead to problems down the road.

Thanks again rdd

I've just done another 30% water change, and will do another in the morning , hopefully with the ongoing water changes, the plecs will be ok

I wasn't inferring you were accusing me of being stupid, i probably was just trying to reassure you that i wasn't with all the mistakes we're making :blush:

I think what we are probably going to do is get a 150 litre (40 us Gallon) tank, for the lounge and move the old tank to the home office and split the fish, probably still a little over stocked, depending if they all survive the sh*t we've put em through.

How would you suggest we split them ?
 
lol i done just the same when i got my first tank, the excitment overtakes reality, i'm sure the fishshop will be understanding, or you could always get another tank :good: :good:
regards Angel
 
If I were you and you want to save your betta id get him out of there now you can put him in a 1 gal jar less for now if you have to just keep him in a warm place he will be safer and perhaps not catch anything hope this helps. We all make mistakes and at least your trying to do right by your fish. :)
 
No, taking the carbon out will not remove the good bacteria however, the medication will remove some of it but if they have ick you need to add the medication.

You add the medication for three consecutive days depending on what medication you are using. Once you see the ick fall off the fish this is when they medication works. So you see the ick fall off and you think it’s cured, however this is the second stange and the curable stage so you need to still medicate.[/quote]


You really should take some fish back until you are fully cycled. You will loose a lot of fish. I know there are a lot of conflicting info on the net but once you take them back and then once your tank is cycled and you decide to get more fish post here and then we will help so you are not overstocked again and the fish are compatible.

I’m assuming the SFF is a betta. Some will be fine in a community some won’t. Most of mine are too aggressive for a community tank but some people get luck. If you have a back up plan if it does not work then go for it once your tank is cycled.

Are you planning on returning some fish? I really hope so because you really loose a lot of fish if you don’t and you will end up with a ton of problems. I know you are just starting out but before you buy fish research a lot and even though the net if filled with conflicting advice still research and make your own decision up. And it is better to under stock then it is to over stock.
 
No, taking the carbon out will not remove the good bacteria however, the medication will remove some of it but if they have ick you need to add the medication.
Actually, if carbon is the only media in the filter, it is the media that the bacteria are colonizing so removing it will indeed remove bacteria. How much really depends on what type filter is being used and where the carbon is in the line of filtration(before sponges, after sponges, in the filter pack, etc.).
 
No, taking the carbon out will not remove the good bacteria however, the medication will remove some of it but if they have ick you need to add the medication.
Actually, if carbon is the only media in the filter, it is the media that the bacteria are colonizing so removing it will indeed remove bacteria. How much really depends on what type filter is being used and where the carbon is in the line of filtration(before sponges, after sponges, in the filter pack, etc.).

I've taken everything back, except the mollies and the platy, as told these are the most hardy, and they'll help the tank to mature, i've told them about the white spot, and they said they'll continue treating them on site.They all still seemed fine today, but hopefully now the ones i have left will have a better chance now.

When we get the new tank it will sit with nothing in, and we'll do the job right this time.

Thanks for all your help

Stevie
 
In the long run, I think you will be happy with what you did. You were looking at a LOT of water changes. Just keep an eye on the stats for ammonia and nitrite and do WCs as needed to keep them at or under .25 ppm.
 

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