Roots, Nutrients, And Co2

[MtPansy]

Hey all, I hope this finds you well.

In both my potted tanks my stem plants are sending out roots from midway up their exposed stems. At first I thought the cause was a lack of nutrients in the substrate, but after a little research it seems they do this if they grow too high in too much light (and so grow the roots as shade). The tanks are overdue for a trimming anyway, I was just going to plant them where these stems are growing. If I keep them shorter, will it prevent this happening, or should I also invest in some root tablets? (At the moment I am only using liquid ferts on a plain gravel substrate.)

Question 2: Having recently bought a kH test kit, I found out that my co2 levels were only around 6-8ppm, and have since upped the flow. Final results still pending on that, but I hope to get my co2 to around 15-20 ppm. If my co2 is that high, do I need to turn it off at night? Some say yes, some say no. The tank is fairly well planted, 80% of the substrate is rooted or covered.

Lastly, I am having quite a few issues with reading the high range pH results from my API kit. Is the best technique 1. holding the tube flush against the white of the test sheet, 2. holding it a short distance away so light gets in between, or 3. looking down the open tube through the liquid to the chart? I have been comparing my results to the multi-test strip, and sort of averaging the results, but I would like more precision.

 

[RadaR]

At first I thought the cause was a lack of nutrients in the substrate, but after a little research it seems they do this if they grow too high in too much light (and so grow the roots as shade).

Where on earth did you read that?!
Btw, plants can absorb nutrients through their leaves just as easily as they can through their roots. So, if you already have a fert, just dose more. No need to get tabs.

Question 2: Having recently bought a kH test kit, I found out that my co2 levels were only around 6-8ppm, and have since upped the flow. Final results still pending on that, but I hope to get my co2 to around 15-20 ppm. If my co2 is that high, do I need to turn it off at night? Some say yes, some say no. The tank is fairly well planted, 80% of the substrate is rooted or covered.

The KH and pH relationship chart/tables are incorrect. They should not be trusted. Why? Because your tank water contains other acidic substances, which can affect the reading. The charts assume that the pH change is soley due to carbonic acid (dissolved CO2). This simply isnt the case though. There are loads of acidic compounds in the water. You only need to worry about CO2 if you have medium/high light levels. Or if you own plants like HC (which tend to grow leggy without CO2). Best way to measure CO2 is by following this guide.

Lastly, I am having quite a few issues with reading the high range pH results from my API kit. Is the best technique 1. holding the tube flush against the white of the test sheet, 2. holding it a short distance away so light gets in between, or 3. looking down the open tube through the liquid to the chart? I have been comparing my results to the multi-test strip, and sort of averaging the results, but I would like more precision.

It doesnt really matter what your pH. Just avoid the extremes i.e. less than 6. More than 8.

 

[MtPansy]

Thanks for the information! So more judicious pruning and more fertilizer should keep this rooting in check then?


I had no idea the tables were so inaccurate. Unfortunately, I think a drop checker is out of the question for me, at least for the moment, because there are a number on invertebrates in my tank that would not do well at a pH under seven. I think my plan for now is just to increase the co2 gradually to about 1-2 bubbles a second and see how that goes. Frankly, I don't know if that is even necessary, as I've been getting very good growth at the levels I was at (the levels the chart led me to believe were too low.) Again, I will have to see.

 

[RadaR]

Thanks for the information! So more judicious pruning and more fertilizer should keep this rooting in check then?


I had no idea the tables were so inaccurate. Unfortunately, I think a drop checker is out of the question for me, at least for the moment, because there are a number on invertebrates in my tank that would not do well at a pH under seven.

Huh? Drop checkers dont effect the tank water. Re-read the guide again for a better understanding.
Injecting CO2 to 30ppm will roughly lower your pH by 1. We have seen no negative effects from this on fish or shrimp.

 

[MtPansy]

From the article on the drop checker, it said that the solution turns green at a pH of 6.6. Even if I did misunderstand, a drop of 1 degree from 30ppm CO2 would still put my tank around 6.5. These levels are too acidic for the snails in the tank (I'm pretty sure). I would add a pH adjuster, but besides being overly fussy with the water, would this not render the drop checker ineffective?

Forgive me if I am still being obtuse, I'm incredibly new to the planted tank, and indeed the whole aquarium experience.

 

[RadaR]

Remember, the solution in the DP and the water in the tank never mix. It's only the CO2 gassing off from the tank water into the DP.
Plenty of us can keep shrimp/snails in pH of 6.5.
If you are worried about your water becoming acidic due to the increase of carbonic acid (dissolved CO2 in water), then dont inject CO2.
If your tank/plants need CO2 because of the amount of light you have, then decrease the light.
Easycarbo is an alternative you can try. Just dont overdose it.