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Red neon blie eye pseudomugil

kurtjs

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Good evening,

I bought 3 paskai pseudomugil rainbows last week. I think they are red neon blue eye phudomegil. Maybe same fish? But that's besides the point.

Two of the 3 are doing great, swimming thought the tank, getting food, all that good stuff.

But one seems droopy. Most of the time he hangs out at top. Mainly the corner. When he does swim, his tail fin and back of body still droop lower than his head. He is skinny, but all his fins are fanned out, not against his body or anything.

Not sure what's wrong. I was planning on getting 3 more. But not until I find a solution.

As of right now, my
ammonia is at .25
Nitrite is at 0
And nitrate is higher than I'd like around 30.

I attached photos of the good guys and my struggling one. Should be easy to tell the difference.
Abny ideas would be great.
 

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Try to avoid buying fish that look like the sick one. It is skinny and emaciated and has a slight milky white discolouration to the muscle tissue.

The first thing you do with new rainbowfish that aren't acting normally is to make sure there is no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate, and then add salt to the tank.
The easiest way to reduce ammonia, nitrite or nitrate is with a big (75-80%) water change.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

After 2 weeks of salt, you can deworm the fish.

Section 3 of the following link has info on deworming fish.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
Try to avoid buying fish that look like the sick one. It is skinny and emaciated and has a slight milky white discolouration to the muscle tissue.

The first thing you do with new rainbowfish that aren't acting normally is to make sure there is no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate, and then add salt to the tank.
The easiest way to reduce ammonia, nitrite or nitrate is with a big (75-80%) water change.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

After 2 weeks of salt, you can deworm the fish.

Section 3 of the following link has info on deworming fish.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
I got them appx a week ago. They had the 3 and were getting more so I took them, they all looked fine to me at the time.

I did a salt treatment approximately a month ago, I'm pretty sure i followed the instructions you gave ti another person. Would UT be bad to do it again so soon? It worked great the first time.

Problem with water changes for nitrate is my water has nitrate in it so it's almost pointless. I feel like I'd need ti buy special water. I sent some pictures to my fish shop and I'm hoping maybe they help me out.
 
You should add salt asap otherwise the fish will be dead in a few days. It appears to have a microsporidian infection.

If you have nitrates in tap water, you can put some tap water in a plastic storage container or spare aquarium and add some floating plants. Let the plants use the nitrate and then dechlorinate the water and use it for water changes.

You can also get nitrate removing substances that go in filters. These are usually sold for marine tanks but also work in freshwater.

Having lots of live fast growing plants in the main tank can help bring the nitrates down.
 

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